Click, Click, Click.....

Discussion in 'The Bench' started by PaulGS, Nov 10, 2019.

  1. PaulGS

    PaulGS Well-Known Member

    Went to start the 72 GS 455 (Randy Lutz old car) today and got the dreaded clicks.

    Battery checks out 100%, so leaning towards the starter.

    Any recommended high torque stick style starters?

  2. rmstg2

    rmstg2 Gold Level Contributor

    Check for bad connection before you start replacing parts!

    Bob H.
  3. PaulGS

    PaulGS Well-Known Member

    Thanks - connections clean. Battery cables are newish.
  4. Briz

    Briz Platinum Level Contributor

    Id jump the solenoid to see if its the starter or the starter solenoid.
    65Larkin likes this.
  5. racenu

    racenu Well-Known Member

    Hammer time
  6. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD"

    How about the connections at the starter? Clean and tight?
  7. TORQUED455

    TORQUED455 Well-Known Member

    How was the battery tested?
  8. Lucy Fair

    Lucy Fair Nailheadlova

    How is the ground holding?
    Use jumper cables to make good ground to the engine.

    Peace, Kacper.
  9. 12lives

    12lives Engage! - Jean-Luc Picard

    If the jumper works, check the connection at the firewall behind the fuse box.
    Lucy Fair likes this.
  10. racenu

    racenu Well-Known Member

    Ta performance has high torque starters, I say again...hammer time lol
    Freakazoid likes this.
  11. PaulGS

    PaulGS Well-Known Member

    Update: Battery fully charged and has 12.5 volts at rest.

    Turn key, and zero battery draw.

    No interior lights, no headlights, no power anywhere.

    Does the power feed thru a horn relay?

    Ignition switch?


    I am a little stumped now.....suggestions please.
  12. BBBPat

    BBBPat Well-Known Member

    Battery ground wire to fender, Dirty block to firewall connection, burned fusible link near starter (theres 2, one for lights and one for everything else. Dirty bulkhead connector. Briz 's idea about direct jumping the starter may surge enough juice to correct the problem; intermittently.

    Continuity and a voltage check is where you start. Main starter post to block, battery to block, hot side of fuses to ground with key on/off. Probably a dead solenoid. Bang on the starter case with a big hammer.
  13. PaulGS

    PaulGS Well-Known Member

    Thanks Pat.

    I what order would you do the troubleshooting?

    Appreciate your expertise.
  14. PaulGS

    PaulGS Well-Known Member

    No headlights at all.

    With a voltmeter on the battery, key on has no current draw or clicking whatsoever.

    Funny thing was a few days ago the headlights worked.
  15. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD"

    Battery ground, then fusible links.
    Briz likes this.
  16. PaulGS

    PaulGS Well-Known Member


    Fusible links are near the starter, yes?
  17. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD"


    FusibleLinkA.JPG FusibleLinkCC.jpg FusibleLinks.jpg FusibleLinkA.JPG FusibleLinkCC.jpg FusibleLinks.jpg
    Donuts & Peelouts and Briz like this.
  18. PaulGS

    PaulGS Well-Known Member

    Larry - you are the BEST! Thanks for the thoughtful response.

    It appears that the car is electrically "dead" lights, no starter click, no nothing.

    I am going to clean the negative battery it attached to the alternator bracket?

    Where do you buy fusible links?
  19. 436'd Skylark

    436'd Skylark Sweet Fancy Moses!!!!!

    I turned wrenches through college. 90% of customers would always say that. "It was fine and all the sudden it stopped working"... well, thats probably when the failure occurred!
    docgsx and Blurredman like this.
  20. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD"

    Yes, the negative battery cable should be bolted to an alternator bracket bolt. You need a 14 gauge and a 16 gauge fusible link.

    Like this,

    Check in your local parts store. NAPA usually has them.

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