Close to strock 455 Need more power....BAD.

Now is the time to really think about what you want this motor to do.

What sort of performance you want and how much you can spend.

You are going to have to pull it apart so now is the time to do things right so the motor will last.

Get the casting # off the heads so we can let you know if they are good for what you want to do.

 

I have 2 sets of heads and 2 blocks what which year motor would be better to work on 72 or 73?

how much does machining and pistions cost? whould it be more in my budget to do a chevy motor or if i do that im starting from scratch?

 

what is your budget!

 

I have a question, do you need this car running soon so that you can have a car to drive? If you have another car I would suggest doing what you want to do with it right now, and I have some suggestions for you. But if you need it now, then ignore my suggestions and get it together as best you can with the money you have now.

Get some Edelbrock aluminum heads, or spend the big bucks for some TA's. I use the edelbrocks, and with some mild porting done they flow just as good as the ta heads. And some people have done a lot more work on the edelbrock heads to get them to flow some really great #'s

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-60049/

Get some forged pistons, the stock pistons will not stand up to much of a nitrous shot, and if you do turbocharge it and spend all the money on that, it is not worth it in my opinion to have to worry about piston failure. I would also spend some money on either some forged rods or aluminum rods, aluminum only if it isn't going to see a bunch of street miles. And a girdle, just for the added strength for the bottom end.

Also I think that the 72 and 73 should be about the same, if I am not mistaken they both should have the large 5/8 oil pickup tube.

And please do not put a chebby motor in it ou:

 

And please do not put a chebby motor in it ou:

Your favorite subject :Brow: :laugh:

Your kinda all over the place in your posts. These guys can give you all the advice you want about your build, but if you have no job and are on a budget, you may want to regroup. I would try to find a good running "Buick " motor and stick it in there for now, there around. Even if you slide a bigger bump stick in there so you can have some fun. A good running 455 with a cam will give you plenty of power for now, then when your working again you can build the motor you want.

 

I had a good runing motor until i brought it home. all i did was change the cam and manafold. Im guessing it either over heated or the gas was lean on the ridehome. job thing is no big deal Im just working part time now which is good when im busy an bad when im not.

Yes i know im all over the place and Every one is giving me good advice.
at first my motor was running good at the shop and i wanted to make it faster. one set of advice
then the thing ove heated and they gave me more good advice about that.
Now I need good advice moving forward with a rebuild.


Car does not have to be running for the most part. I have other cars to drive, this was suposed to be my sunday driver/track car i just spent the last couple of months putting the thing togeather and i wanted to drive it this summer. is been 4 years since i dove it last. i can wait another year if need be

Yes it is going to be a street driven car. any where i go is atleast a 25mile ride. Farthest i would take it is up state 125 miles 1 way.
will i spray... i dont know, if so only on the track.

Do i want to turbo it? maby is a few years when it fits my budget better.

To who asked before for my engine numbers here they are 241785 1973 and1241795 72 electra

As of now i whould like the motor in the car just to pull it in and out of the way of my tools. I can push it if nessasary. If the motor are exactly the same i will start building the spare block correctly.

I can spend anywhere from 3 to $500 a month with out worring. with a splearge here or there
if it took me 4 years to get the car on the road for 20 miles i dont mind waiting another year to do it right and not have to worrie again.

what block should I use
What should my first step be? drop the block off, do i need the new pistions for that, or do i get those after it is boared?

 

Here are the pictures i tried posting before. i should have enough pst by now

 

I thought the heads were around 3k did the price drop or is that just TA's heads?

 

Here is what I would do...

1. Call TA tomorrow and request a catalog...lots of great info and prices on all the parts you need.

2. 455 shouldn't be bored more than .040 so you will need to check or have someone check the bores on the blocks you have. Use the one that has the smaller bore.

3. Bring it to a good (you may have to ask around) machine shop and have it cleaned and magnafluxed. While there get prices on align honing, oil passage work (print up oil hole info and show them), boring the block, and milling the block.

3. your 72 heads will work fine. Get machine shop prices for cleaning and magnafluxing the heads, 3 angle valve job. installing new valve guides, and assembly. If you want these heads can be made into stage 1 with larger valves -ask how much to open the heads up.

4. your old rods are probably good - so is your crank - you can pull them and have machine shop quote to take crank down and check rods.

5. Someone sells refurbished timing cover/pump assemblies on ebay for 200 - 300 hundred - assembled lubed and ready to go.

6. Sell the 750 carb on ebay and look for a q-jet or 850 holley used

7. TA forged pistons - under 500 - going to need bearings, rings, cam bearings (only use TA's), new cam and lifters and gaskets

8. your rockers will work for now - can always upgrade later

7. This - along with TA's cat will give you a good idea how much it will cost.