Gotcha, will do! I think my pistons are far enough in the hole that they wouldn't hit a valve if a pushrod broke . . . I'm using stock rockers (well new TA pieces with their HD shafts).
You should be fine with adjustables. I would run them again if the adjustability was needed using stock rockers. You could go back to std lifters with more travel and fixed length p-rods, if valve stem tip heights are all within reason.
A broken pushrod wont cause a piston to collide with a valve by itself, the valve just stops moving. When a valve DOES smack a piston its from a failed spring, valve lock, or spring retainer. My opinion on adjustable pushrods is.... I don't like 'em Years ago as I was adjusting one, the threaded end twisted off AND I WAS SITTING DOWN AND HAD IT IN MY LAP. So I sat there, and thought " theres too many moving parts in an adjustable pushrod and this thing broke while it was sitting in my lap, what would happen if it broke while in a running engine" The mechanical forces it experiences in a running engine is FAR more than I can apply with two box wrenches. My only option was adjustable rockers, so I bought TA rollers, expensive yes, but well worth it.
I agree with Mark. Although TA roller rockers are costly. If one pushrod should fail it could be costly to repair, never mind the down time.
Hmm I should have tried to buy the ones in the parts for sale section a few days ago, asking price was $500 I'm debating if I should switch to a different lifter and run solids or give the adjustables a try . . .
Another issue with adjustables is there’s very little room to get two wrenches in there to loosen, then TRY to find zero lash ( it takes finesse to feel it) then extend the end smoothly while the rocker arm wants to mess with yah, then by the time you THINK you have it adjusted properly, your second guessing yourself. For me it was just too much jacking around, plus the factory rocker ratio is not all that accurate anyway.
Interesting, when I was using the adjustable "checking" pushrod I was putting the adjustment nuts on the lifter side where there's lots of room (intake off). With "real" adjustables is this not possible?
Well I went ahead and ordered some adjustables from TA. I called Smith Bros to get a quote and guess who makes them for TA? So I figured going through TA would be safer since they have all the correct measurements already. I'll let you guys know how they work! Looks like the adjustment nuts need to go on the lifter side then. Luckily I'm doing this with the intake off.
Why would you need to do that? Take the rocker arm assembly off, and insert the push rods into the heads, and into the lifter plunger cups. Put the rocker assembly back on.
Ah ok I was confused, I thought there was interference between the adjuster nuts and pushrods holes in the head. They are 5/16" so hopefully they won't rub!
Ok well it turns out I was being stupid and I didn't check the part number on my box of lifters, or the instructions that were crammed in the top of the box. The lifters that were sold to me by Scott Brown (claimed to be Pro Magnums) are in fact a set of Comp Cams 869-16 High Energy Lifters. This is crappy because now I have to return my adjustable pushrods to get some custom length solids. The good news is that these lifters call of .045" to .060" of preload so I have a lot more room for error on the pushrod length. I guess it's my bad for not checking the PN of the lifters as soon as I got them. Here's the instructions for my actual lifters: http://www.compcams.com/pub/media/productattach/c/o/comp4-116.pdf
You don't want solid pushrods, solid means theres no hole in the center for rocker oiling. You want HOLLOW pushrods for oiling of the rockers. What I would do to possibly save a lot of money, is drop those lifters in, install your STOCK pushrods, then the stock rockers, and use the checking method Comp Cams recommends for non adjustable valve trains and see where your at. You may be able to use your stock pushrods
