but your running a new wire to the relays right for their power source. Nate I can draw up what the wiring connections would be if anyone else is intrested it will work and if you size the components right for the power draw there will be no problems. ahh.. though, is there a plug between the plug on the back of the switch and to the harness that goes to the rear of the car? Nate
Yes you need a new wire for the main power feed but that is easy to do with factory connectors. the original harness is still used, but now what used to be the power harness is the signal for the relays, the rest just plugs into the factory harness connectors. I even found a perfect source for the relays, 40amp bosch units, set of four with bracket cost me $4.00 at the wreckers...connectors are all ready to go, just need the car to put it into.....I also have all the diagrams and part numbers ready to go, didn't want to put it online until I can try it myself....case somebody burns their car up and then blames me. I can post diagrams if you wish. later Tim
Tim, I'd be interested in the diagrams. I've got the dash tore apart on my '69 convert so this would be a good time to add the relays and replumb the wiring. Thanks! Ken
Ok, I've had so many requests for this that I added it to my website.....remember, it is untested as of yet and although I have no doubt it will work fine, I cannot be responsible if you electricute yourself, get crimped in the wire crimpers, burn your car up, hit your head on the dash or whatever.... All I ask is you give credit where it is due, and if you have suggestions, I'm listening...the idea is to improve all our cars... new link 06/2017: http://fixjet.ca/elec.html later Tim
you may wish to decide to relocate the relays into the trunk. not to have high currents still running under the old dried out wire (if you haven't changed the harness) and put about a 12 awg wire to the trunk. its as simple change. if anyone is intrested in doing it with new parts DIGI-KEY is a source for 40 amp automotive relays, nice mounting bases, and new crimp connectors. Nate
Well as I said in the post I have not decided on the final location of anything. Also, the page is under construction not all the info is there....and of course you can buy new anything if you don't want used parts. I like the weatherpack connectors as they are easy to change realys for troubleshooting (unclip old relay, install another one)..the bosch relays run about 20.00US each, so pretty hard to beat $4.00 for four relays plus a bracket you can use to mount them. Putting the relays in the trunk would also save weight as can make up new signal harness with smaller gauge wire. Inside the rear seat support would be the best, could hide the whole mess in there....hmmm... later Tim edit: I have added your suggestion to the page but won't change the diagram for now, until I actually do the car and finalize everything....
I'm gonna run a 6ga. wire back to the seat tower and install a terminal strip, (I'll put a fuseable link in up at the battery connection for safety). I'll be able to power the top motor, trunk release, and stereo amp with a series of relays back there. It will also be a good place to power my in tank pump when I go to fuel injection.
I considered it, but running 1ga all the way up front just didn't make sense to me. Plus I spent so much money rebuilding the inner fender for the battery tray area that I was determined to get some bang for the buck outta it.
Relay Switch Success Took a bit of what everyone was offering and got mine installed and working today. I took a trip to the local yard and pulled a few bosch and hella relays with the weather pak connectors and a mounting bracket along with a nice bulkhead battery terminal connection (89 Olds I think), I ran a 6ga. lead from my remote starter soleniod line side (with 70a fusible link) through the frame back to the rear seat tower where I mounted the battery terminal connection then mounted the relays inside the seat tower also, used some spare matching connectors from an old wire harness I had lying around so I didn't have to cut the original harness. About $14 total, and it works like a champ. Wiring is the same as Tim put together with the exception of the new 6ga lead going all the way back and the relays being back by the pump. Having the heavy power available back there will also allow me to power my trunk release relay (for keyless entry/alarm system), and stereo amp. definately a worthwhile project. I'll see if I can get some pics up tomorrow.
Well thats cool!!!!!!!! Proof of concept. The rear seat support on ragtops was made for hiding things, relays, nitrous, whatever!!LOL It seems like a real waste of space. the more I think about it, the more havng the relays at the back makes sense, and would be easier to hide as well....I think I will update the diagrams when I get a chance... Looking forwrd to those pics... later Tim
Got a couple more. Still have to do some grooming on the wiring but I've got two more relays to install on that bracket for trunk release an CD Changer/Amp power.
Nicely done.....I like the fact there is no cuting of original harness so if you ever want to go back its not a problem. One thing, the relay bracket looks to be the same style as the one I have, but holds 4 relays, did you do some fabbing there or is that off a wreckers car?? later Tim
I think it came off an 89 Olds don't recall the model, it was mounted to the firewall under a plastic cover, I just cut the ends down a bit and used some spacers to keep it back in the tower a little actually got the idea to use a donor car bracket from your post.
Looking for a relay for the power top switch on my '71 GS convertible, so I figured I'd resurrect this old thread. Does anyone presently make a plug & play relay kit? Thanks