Converting Back To R12 Questions

Discussion in 'The Big Chill' started by Marco, Jun 21, 2016.

  1. Marco

    Marco Well-Known Member

    Hi All,

    Car is a '70 stage1 455. Going back to R12 after leaking R134a/oil the past couple years from the compressor front seal. When converted in 2000, only the oil and refrigerant was changed...nothing else. :confused: I am able to get ~55 degrees out of the center vent on an 85 degree day (when fully charged) but I want to hang meat in the interior :Brow:

    I have several questions for the experts:

    I'm planning on getting the Pro6TEN compressor, as it's a matter of time before the current A6 leaks - even if I put a neoprene seal on it. Plus, it is not been rebuilt to the best of my knowledge. A full rebuild is ~450. According to http://www.oldairproducts.com/, there are two compressors. Which one to use? Any issues with RPMS (Buick used a larger pulley on the stage1s to bring down compressor RPMS). Both are the same price.
    21-2201SH
    21-2201HP

    What is a good oil to use?

    What is a good source and part number for a complete o-ring replacement kit?

    What is a good source and part number for a dryer

    I will have the system completely flushed while apart and tested prior to filling.

    Am I missing anything?

    Thanks for the help!
     
  2. mrolds69

    mrolds69 "The Cure"

    I would definitely keep the large pulley set-up. It can't hurt, if it's running right, it will be cold and give you better protection. There was a shield used for oil slinging in 72. Inline repros that if you keep a stock compressor. They sling oil, that's what they do. If you are going to R-12...supposedly the desicant in some driers is not compatible. Naturally, you want the "skinny" drier to clear the crossbars. You can get one from Car Part Kings on ebay cheap. Slightly different appearance, but ok. You want one with a sight glass. There is a screen/filter in the expansion valves, you want to clean or replace it. You want the "modern" green type o-rings, you can get a set off ebay from Classic Air. There's lots of stuff to know. Hopefully the person doing it is good!
     
  3. musclecarz

    musclecarz Well-Known Member

    To get good performance out of the system with 134a you need to recalibrate the poa valve and use a parallel flow condenser. I looked at old air products and the two pro6ten compressors are 21-2201SH standard aluminum finish $345 and 21-2201SH-POL Polished aluminum finish $390. You would want to use PAG oil and I'm not aware of any o-ring kits that are specific but OAP has this one http://www.oldairproducts.com/catal...10025.html?Make=Buick&Model=Skylark&Year=1970
    Where are you getting the $450 for rebuilding an A6? I suspect Classic Auto Air. You can have it rebuilt for much less than that.
     
  4. red67wildcat

    red67wildcat Well-Known Member

    I just installed a pro6ten on my car from old air products, they are set up for 134 with oil in them when you purchase them. It did give instructions on what you need to do if changing it to r-12. Id suggest calling and talking to old air products I found they were very help full on the phone.
     
  5. musclecarz

    musclecarz Well-Known Member

    Forgot to mention that OAP marks up there parts pretty good. you can get the same standard finish pro6ten compressor for $300 elsewhere. Ive gotten it for as little as $240 locally. Just got have the right connections.
     
  6. Marco

    Marco Well-Known Member

    Thanks for the great information!

    Thankfully, I have two possible highly recommended (from Buick guys) shops in my area who can do the work.

    I believe it was http://originalair.com that quoted $450 and 8 weeks for the A6 Rebuild. Since I'm not a concours guy, I'll go with something that will hopefully work trouble-free for years and keep the A6 on the shelf.

    Here's a Pro6TEN for $299 that should work, even though they mention Chevrolet:
    http://nostalgicac.com/a-6-to-sanden-conversion-kit.html

    I can call around to local shops to see how much they would sell it for...$240 sounds great!
     
  7. Marco

    Marco Well-Known Member

  8. musclecarz

    musclecarz Well-Known Member

    I used to work for Classic Auto Air rebuilding compressors, among other things. There are a couple of shops around here that do rebuilds and I know one of them can do it in a week for under $300 I believe. The sanden is going to require you to change brackets and hoses. The pro6ten is a bolt in deal.
     
  9. musclecarz

    musclecarz Well-Known Member

    You will also need brackets and custom hoses with a sanden. But hey you can even make an offer on that ebay one you linked. They are willing to sell it cheaper. There are also sanden knock offs that even cheaper than that on ebay
     
  10. Marco

    Marco Well-Known Member

    Good point with the Sanden. Thanks!

    I'll stay as close as possible to stock with the Pro6TEN...now to find a good place to buy....
     
  11. 87GN_70GS

    87GN_70GS Well-Known Member

    I am thinking of rebuilding my OEM A6, would you recommend that?

    Also Ive heard the issue with oil slinging is that the front shaft bearing wears and most ppl don't replace them when rebuilding. A new bearing (bushing?) with the updated seal usually cures that, is what I've heard
     
  12. musclecarz

    musclecarz Well-Known Member

    The A6 is not very hard to rebuild. So if you feel up to it, go for it. Better to use the double lip seal to help against leakage. The leakage is in the design of the a6 carbon ceramic seal so they would all eventually sling some oil especially as the wick became completely saturated. Some models actually had covers to catch some of the oil slinging.
     
  13. woodenbuick

    woodenbuick Well-Known Member

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