Looking on teamBuick specs page, it says that connecting rod clearance should be .0002-.0023 with end play of .005-.012 Main bearings say clearance should be .0007-.0018 Somewhere, somebody told me years ago that what I want to ask the machine shop to hold to is Grind and polish crank to achieve .0022 -.0026 rod clearance with bearings. Main clearance on cap 1 thru 4 to .0020-.0024, while Cap#5 clearance to.0022- .0026 Why was this recommendation so high when the specs are so tight? I'm assuming this is Diameter tolerance, not radius. If I drop my block and crank off at the shop, what should I ask for?
Buick specs are so tight to keep the hot oil pressure up. If you are building a completely stock engine that will never see more than 5000 RPM, go with the tight specs. Here are my clearances.
It will be a step above a stage1 stock cam, but still under .500 lift. After looking at my cam sheet again, I realized I was mis-remembering that it was .515ish lift. Now that I see that, I reckon it will probably be in the 400hp and 475tq range when it is all done. I doubt it will see 5250 more than a couple times in its life, so a 5000 max sounds about right to me. I bought a pre-assembled TA timing cover & oil pump so it will have oil for sure. Are those the actual measurements, your engines "blue print" as it were?
Right out of the engine book Jim provided me with the engine. That is the engine in my signature though, and I could take it to 6300 RPM, but I keep it under 6000.
Well I just found out the machine shop I was intending to use DOESN'T have a torque plate for a 455. Sigh. There is Bearing Service in downtown portland that DOES have a torque plate, but I know nothing of their capabilities.
Ask your machine shop if has worked with the bearing service.. Lots of shops dont have ALL the tools and equipment to handle all jobs.. they work with each other. Can always Ask if they would rent. Im my case no shop in my area had a TP for a buick 455. So I just bought one gave it to my machinist. their cheap.. TA does rent but for shipping and rent fee it was only a few more bucks
I HAD a couple 455's down at bearing services, The plan was a good rebuild. After hearing some changes that happened after his dad stopped working there and he seemed to want to build it "his way" with "his parts" I decided against using him. He pretty much didnt agree with any of the advise thats given on this forum.
Well, Eastco, the shop without the TP, says for under 500 HP and under 5500 RPM, he says I don't need to use a TP. This is going to be a 450 HP, under 5000RPM, weekend cruiser and tire fryer. It will get less than 4000 miles per year. I really don't want to get into a pissin match with my machinist but......
I call BS. Without plate the block is relaxed.. With plate the block is tightened up... you can actually measure just where the head bolts are in the block..When you start honing the block with plate you can feel the blots in the vibration in the cutter after a about a minute or so the vibes stop.. So if you were to hone the block without the plate it will be round .. Now when you bolt down the head you will be stressing the block and the 4 bolts will appear in the what is now a not round cylinder hole.. You can get by But... its your motor.
It was bearing services that told me unless you are building a race motor that a torque plate was not needed. "the factory did not use one so why use one now" Not arguing the point just mentioning what is being told out there by engine builders.
B.S. race motor Ok. Also means they dont have a T.P. for your motor.. The factory..... Why would they. Their warranty was only 1 year. 12,000 miles back then.. they want your motor to die..
