Did my best time at Quaker so far

Discussion in 'Small Block Tech' started by Mark Demko, Jun 14, 2019.

  1. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    13.44 @. 100.58 on run #4
    Best 60 foot so far of 1.93
    The 100 mph run I shifted @ 7000 rpm first to second and 6500 two to three.
    Climbs to 7 grand pretty quick, 6500 no issues either, pulls willingly:cool:
     
    Last edited: Jun 15, 2019
  2. No Lift

    No Lift Platinum Level Contributor

    Looking good. Quaker has got to be one of the slowest tracks east of the Mississippi. I swear they found the only hill in Ohio and then had the track run uphill. Even with decent air at the track today the DA is 1500+. Looks like you'll pick up .2/2mph at a more favorable track on a good air day.

    The only thing I see is the 60' could be better.
     
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  3. gsjohnny1

    gsjohnny1 Well-Known Member

    BIG difference between a d/p and s/p rpm climbing. would take even less time with 4. something gears.
     
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  4. OHC JOE

    OHC JOE BUILDIN A 1970 GSX CLONE

    We need some videos posted
    Who's got videos for us other guys
     
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  5. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    Thank you, it felt good and was getting quicker and quicker each run. My 1.83 sixty foot was bringing the RPM up to 2200, was gonna try 2500 on the next run but I got to talking
    Nice to know that I can spin it to 7 grand
     
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  6. BUICKRAT

    BUICKRAT Torque Rules!

    Now you gotta change your sig!
     
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  7. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    Wife took some I’ll post asap :D
     
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  8. OHC JOE

    OHC JOE BUILDIN A 1970 GSX CLONE

    Right on be safe out there
     
  9. gsjohnny1

    gsjohnny1 Well-Known Member

    if you get more rpm, the best launch rpm is about 3500.
     
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  10. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    I'd probably have to send the convertor back to JW to have it re-stalled, its only 2800 rpm, flashes to 3300, BUT that was with my old combo.
    I wanted to get a couple more passes in, try a few hundred more rpm each time on the convertor, try to find out when it going to start pushing.
    The 7000 rpm shift from 1 to 2 and 6500 2 to 3 gets me a bit over 100 mph tho:D
    The engine sounds good, hitting on all eight, all the time:cool:
    Have no idea where my oil psi was at 7 grand, or my A/F, was too busy watching the tach and track:rolleyes:
    Oil pressure was 62 psi on decel for the return road, that's all I know:p
     
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  11. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    With that much rpm potential I'd have a 4.10 in that thing
     
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  12. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    UPDATE,
    I mis-read my last time slip, on run #5 I switched lanes, I was in the far lane, AND I didn't realize they have your name as well as car number, DUH on my part:rolleyes:
    I was a tad over 100 MPH on my last run as well, my 60 foot was a tad better than run #4 also.
    I round robined on run #5 and my MPH was a smidge slower, as well as my ET.
    So what Im getting from this is shift at 7000 1 to 2 and 6500 2 to 3...………… best MPH so far.
    Keep experimenting with launch RPM to get 60' lower.
    Am I on the right path?? IMG_4237.JPG IMG_4238.JPG
     
  13. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    I know I know it needs more gear:D
    4.10 and a Gear Vendors Overdrive, is the only way I'd do it tho:D
     
  14. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    The burn out box feels more like a boat launch ramp LOL IMG_4220.JPG
     
  15. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    410 and a 200r,..it would pick up 5mph and get you down to low 1.70s,..and more than likely get you .5 to .7 faster et,..gear vendors would hold it back with a small block,..would put too much work on it
     
    Last edited: Jun 15, 2019
  16. Bens99gtp

    Bens99gtp Well-Known Member

    There was something else that happened on pass 5, even though you went back to back, it was just as warm when you took off, you were. 026 fast in the 60' then lost it all by 1000. If things go right on my car and most a gain of .02 in the shirt times is worth .04+ at the big end.....and you ended up .01 behind......so somewhere on that pass you lost at least. 05. I know if wad windy yesterday and if a head wind that always slows my car down. Other could be the air from the other car, if you too were both close together with him being in front of you all the way, the air air he already cut has heavy in front of you forcing your car to do more work.

    Let's see if we cant help you get those lights down, when are you leaving, how are you staging?

    Last time I was at that track, I was in the box, and the car in front of blew up. Park was not holding, and I could get anyone for more than hr to get me a tire stop. Had to hold the brake for more than hr. Sucked
     
  17. Jim Weise

    Jim Weise 1000+HP

    Mark,

    If you get a chance today, just hold the rpm at about 1000 in the lights, and then rifle it when the lights come down.. .that is how you will flash the converter to the highest rpm.

    Trying to foot brake it to a higher rpm, will generally slow it down.

    This does not work this way, if you have poor carb or ignition tuning, the engine needs to snap when you nail it. If it's groggy at all , it will not stall to it's potential.

    Try shifting at 6000, see what happens.
    Just because it will rev to 7, does not mean it's making any power there. I would be surprised if it did not go faster short shifting it a bit.

    JW
     
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  18. UNDERDOG350

    UNDERDOG350 350 Buick purestock racer

    Sorry I was not able to attend the event. I really wanted to.

    3 things:
    #1. Has your tach been verified to be reading correctly? When I was young I had a 72 chevelle 350 2bbl that would read 7000 on the cheap aftermarket tach and a friend told me no way. We checked and found it to be way off at higher RPM.

    #2. try short shifting as Jim suggested. My combo will rev just over 6000 but is faster when shifting around 5200.

    #3 It's interesting to note this is yet another 350 Buick that will not gain 20 mph between the 1/8 mile and 1/4 mile. I've yet to see a NA 350 buick that would to it. To me this shows a lack of high RPM power. AKA this is a torque engine.
    That again relates to the poor bore/stroke ratio. Stroking this design for the sake of cubic inches is moving backwards in my opinion.

    Also you need to use the A/F meter to tune your carb. I think there are gains to be had there.

    Have fun. I hope you get to run today as the weather here in MI is calling for rain all day.
     
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  19. Fox's Den

    Fox's Den 22 years of racing the same 355 Buick motor

    I decided to go last night since they were talking about rain for today, did not do too bad for a 25 yr old motor.

    13.87 @ 95.50 2.03 60 ft. on the motor

    12.32 @ 105.71 1.66 60 ft using the 75 shot of nitrous Shifting myself at around 5900. This 350 motor really likes nitrous.

    I am using the SP3 also but I was not shifting above 6 grand This cam just runs out of power by 6 grand. But it does try to go higher with this SP3. The old TA 510 cam would blow past this on the old DP intake, Should stick it back in.

    First time on nitrous I let the trans shift it and it shifted at 5700 in 1st and 5500 out of second and still went 12.49 on the nitrous.

    So far I went a 1/10 faster with the SP3 with out very much tuning. I only upped the jets 1 number on the carb since it was more open.

    I see by Underdogs post the 350 does not gain 20 mph between the 1/8 and the 1/4 and I have noted this too. Only on the nitrous did it get close to 20 mph between the two.

    On my best nitrous run it went 86.92 in 1/8 and 105.71 in the 1/4
    On the other run it was 85.23 in 1/8 and 104.82 in the 1/4

    Fast out the hole and slow on the top end
     
    Last edited: Jun 15, 2019
  20. Bens99gtp

    Bens99gtp Well-Known Member


    X2, when u was foot braking, I had my best short time just how he described it, about 1200-1400. Mine was a big block though. Just enough pms to get the timing swinging and it not bog, letting the converter and suspension work.

    When footbraking to higher rpms, you end up with the rear brakes not holding well since all the power is back there, and you will start to drive through, so you cram the pedal harder to stop the creeping forward.....now the front end lifts up.........guess what there goes your weight transfer already .......now when you let it eat, the front suspension is already through most of it travel and your getting the swing in weight to rear tires.


    I try to start by staging very shallow, barely get the last light to come on. I prefer to flicker it, then light it this let's me know I'm at the same spot each time.

    I tried to leave with the last yellow when I was in this et range.........now I have to see the yellow. Doing this should help get consistent lights, even if slow, get them consistent first. Then you can adjust staging depth........1, 2, 4 whatever bumps past just turning the stage light on to get the RT down.

    I actually completely stop on the pre stage light, and it might take me 8 or 10 bumps to get to stage.

    Take your time, do everything the same every time, find a pattern that works for you and dont stray from it. Even if the other is fully in dont rush, you have a full 7 seconds to go in from prestage once the other person is staged, and if both in prestage there is no time. So dint rush, relax, clear you mind of everything else.

    I too think if you brought the shift from down in 1st it might help you out, you can get to a spot where the motor rpms but doesnt continue to pull good, try to square up the shift points, keep them the same, this way you looking for 1 spot on the tach, 1 sound in the motor
     
    Last edited: Jun 15, 2019
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