Could one of you geniuses please tell me if I have this correct? If I don't please tell me how the order should go. I'm thinking this could be my rebuilds issue. Plus , I'm glad this isn't my daily job... I would be broke.
The firing order is correct but the #1 plug wire is not in the stock location. That might be OK if the distributor was installed correctly to fire the #1 plug where it is. The way it came from the factory, #1 is where your #3 is, than just follow the firing order around clockwise.
Larry, once again thanks. So if I'm reading your post correctly. All I need to do is move my little blue stickers clockwise 3 spots? Btw the engine was cranking but just not turning over. This might be the trick.
You want to find top dead center for #1 then match rotor to cap and plug wire. You could bring up timing marks to zero. And see where rotor points. Then its 50/50. For plug 1 or 6. Or you can pull #1 plug and put youyour thumb over hole and crank it until it blows thumb off . that would be compression for #1
If the distributor has never been out, I would say it is worth a try. Moving everything 3 towers clockwise would put you at the stock positions.
That technique sounds very painful to have to get your thumb blown off!!! LOL Sorry, I couldn't resist. Derek
To me it looks like he has the wires in the same position as in Larry's diagram with #8 immediately cc from the hold down and #2 right above the window.
Marc, I'm looking at the vacuum advance, not the cap itself. On my Delco cap, #1 is between the vacuum advance and the window. His 3 is where my #1 is. That is an MSD cap with no window. Unless the cap isn't on correctly.
Well here is the update. The engine is running again. The distributor was in the correct position, and the spark plug wires weren't in the correct plugs. Once the engine ran for a little while..... gas poured out if the carburetor. So a mechanic told me that the float need to be replaced. From what they are telling me, it takes a few hours to replace the float. The car has the standard Rochester 2 barrel carburetor. Both NAPA.com and RockAuto.com will rebuild the carburetor but the return process takes a little time to return to me. I bought the float, an accelerator pump, needle & seat, and a few other parts from NAPA for the carburetor gaskets ect. what do you guys think? what are some options? But the car is starting. Thanks guys for your help.
Sounds like you're on the right track! The whole thing can be confusing at first for everyone who's trying to figure this out for the first time. Glad the folks here could help. Devon
Maybe. It is POSSIBLE that the float is heavy. More likely, the needle and seat aren't actually sealing. I'd pull it apart for cleaning and inspection. A talented high-school kid can do it in an hour and a half. NO! NO! NO! Do not send your carb to a "production line" rebuilder. "I" would yank the top off that carb, see what condition the float, needle and seat, and power piston are in. I bet they're all usable but perhaps the float is sticky or the needle 'n' seat needs some varnish removed. Wouldn't hurt to check the fuel pressure. Next best option is to buy a "carb kit" and a couple of cans of aerosol carb cleaner. I'd recommend Doug Roe's book on Rochester carbs. Complete instructions come with the kit. As said, high-school kids can rebuild a carb. They're not hard. The real skill comes when you re-size the carb metering passages; or re-bush the base plate, and you're not doing that.
I'm having my mechanic do it for me. Now I just need new rims and tires. I'm going with the original look.
