Duplicolor or Rustoleum???

Discussion in 'Color is everything!' started by brmorr, Nov 10, 2009.

  1. brmorr

    brmorr Well-Known Member

    Going to be detailing my engine over the winter and was wondering what is the better spray paint? I can get either Rustoleum semi gloss black engine paint or Duplicolor 1635. Has anyone had any problems with the Rustoleum engine paint?? Let me know the plus and minus of both of these paints if they vary at all!!!

  2. copperheadgs1

    copperheadgs1 copperheadgs1

    I have tried every black spray bomb known to man. The duplicolor is the closest I have found to GM black. It has more of a shine to it than the Rusto Which I think is way to flat. Most original stuff had a bit of a shine to it that I can remember. Taking apart junkyard and original cars and checking hidden areas bears this out. The Rusto also takes way to long to dry. Only downside to Duplocolor is one can I bought was real flat. Almost looked like black primer. Maybe was mis-labeled. You can buy black primer as well which really does a good job under the paint. The rustoleum does look good on rally wheels however and appears very durable. I painted wheels 4-5 years ago and they still look good.
  3. copperheadgs1

    copperheadgs1 copperheadgs1

    Not sure on the color you listed but I just checked mine that I use and it is DA1603 semi-gloss black and is labled acrylic enamel not engine paint. It does hold up on brackets and other under hood parts however.
  4. Smartin

    Smartin antiqueautomotiveservice.com Staff Member

    This is a bummer, but it looks like all of the Duplicolor spray paints I use in the engine compartment are being phased out and replaced with Rustoleum products.

    I typically use DE 1635 Ford Semigloss black for the underhood stuff....that is, if you can find it now.
  5. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

    Give Krylon's 51613 Satin Black enamel a try. I've been using it since forever, same as their old semi-flat black they used to shelve. Nice eggshell finish, plenty durable.

  6. Eric

    Eric Founders Club Member

    I've always used the Rustoleum Semi Gloss black...I know it takes a day to dry but I feel it is a hardier paint and just stays looking better longer. I also use Krylon Semi gloss black too but like the rustoleum better for both my Buicks engine parts...not counting the block and heads, timing cover, etc. of which I use Krylon Buick Red.

    Eric / Oregon :3gears:
  7. Joe65SkylarkGS

    Joe65SkylarkGS 462 ina 65 Lark / GN

    Go to your local paint supply and ask if they have this new
    stuff called VHT. It's an epoxy paint. Semi gloss. (satin).

    I had to touch up some of the frame which is done with Eastwood 2K chassis black. This VHT paint is amazing and cheap too!! I think I paint under 4.00 a can. It also has rust preventers in it.
  8. Joe65SkylarkGS

    Joe65SkylarkGS 462 ina 65 Lark / GN

    I will check out to seenif there's anything I left out of my description on the VHT.

    I also use SEM black which is used for the Grand National trim for everything!!!! This is my favorite black paint. IMO.
  9. copperheadgs1

    copperheadgs1 copperheadgs1

    Adam, do you have a Pep Boys near you. They had the Ford number you referenced a couple of weeks ago. I also have several Unused cans of the Ford Semi I may not want.
  10. Golden Oldie 65

    Golden Oldie 65 Well-Known Member

    The downside to Rustoleum is that it takes so long to dry but it is probably the most durable rattle can paint you can buy. Krylon is next in IMO but a little flatter than Rustoleum. I believe the Rustoleum is closer to the original look than the others I've tried. For durability, try this: Paint something with Rustoleum and with anything else and then try to wipe it off with some laquer thinner after it has cured. With all paints except Rustoleum it will wipe right off but you will have a very difficult time getting the Rustoleum off without beadblasting it. Just my thoughts.

  11. Smartin

    Smartin antiqueautomotiveservice.com Staff Member

    No Pep Boys in my general area that I know of...although I've only been the the ZONE this last time, and they killed the Duplicolor line, with the exception of what stock they had left. How many cans do you have? I use that 1635 like water:laugh:
  12. copperheadgs1

    copperheadgs1 copperheadgs1

    I will check and give you a price for fair figure deal on all cans plus shipping. No looking to make anything. I think they cost about $6 each.
  13. Smartin

    Smartin antiqueautomotiveservice.com Staff Member

    Thanks Dave! Whenever you get around to it....no hurry:beer
  14. brmorr

    brmorr Well-Known Member

    Thanks everyone for their input, I am really not in a hurry for it to dry, so I am probably going to use Rustoleum since it sounds like it holds up better and is tougher. Another question though, should I just lightly sand the parts and then paint or should I prime beforehand? What does everyone do in that regard? Most of my parts underhood are not rusty, just more so old and needing a refresh. I am going to be taking everything I paint off the car obviously, but has anyone spray painted stuff where it sits like inner fenders, etc..? Did you mask everything else off?? Let me know!!!

  15. Golden Oldie 65

    Golden Oldie 65 Well-Known Member

    First question you should address is: Has anything you plan to paint ever been painted before? If so then you should use pirmer before you paint it. If you don't you might run the risk of the fresh Rustoleum lifting a previous costing. If you're painting over factory paint then I wouldn't bother with it, just lightly sand it with 600 grit paper and make sure it's super clean before painting.

    Masking? Definitely, especially with Rustoleum. If you don't then it's a sure bet that any overspray will make it's way onto any and everything you don't want it on.

  16. Electrajim

    Electrajim Just another Jim

    BE sure that when you are spray painting parts, that you do it within the temp and humidity ranges suggested on the can.
    That will help it dry and cure the best.
    I learned the hard way painting in parts in the lawn late at night, with dew everywhere.

    FWIW I use Rustoleum. It's readily available at any hardware store. duh! :)

  17. brmorr

    brmorr Well-Known Member

    Probably going to be painting in my house in the basement workshop. It smells slightly for a little bit, but I usually run a fan or two and it clears up pretty quickly. Temp and humidity should be just fine painting down there. I am thinking the hardest part to paint will be the innner wheel wells. I have to get them out first, but I plan on removing the air and putting a AC delete, so the one side needs to come out anyways!!!

    What kind of paint should I use to paint areas I can not remove? Is there a decent brush or roll on stuff I can use???

  18. greg ratti

    greg ratti Well-Known Member

    Hi guys anyone have a part # for the rustoleum semi gloss (not satin ) or did i miss it, or is it the same, thanks. Greg
  19. brmorr

    brmorr Well-Known Member

    The autozone # for the semigloss engine paint Rustoleum is 248936.


  20. Smartin

    Smartin antiqueautomotiveservice.com Staff Member

    I used the RUstoleum for hte first time on Thursday night, and it won't cover in one heavy coat. The duplicolor always did if I needed it to....but the Rustoleum will sag or fall off the edges or sharp corners, and I had to come back with one quick second coat. So don't try to load the part up with paint like I did the first time:laugh::Dou:

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