dynamat install

Discussion in 'Members Rides' started by racenu, Oct 26, 2008.

  1. 70sLark

    70sLark Well-Known Member

    Good question, I have asked allot of people and it was like asking how much do you make. Why I went the other way hehehehe

    Cause what ever it is, I know I can't afford it when folks are silent.
     
  2. racenu

    racenu Well-Known Member

    I didn't want to figure out how much it costs but looks like i have to now, just don't tell the wife...i had to make 2 orders cause i ran out the first time, l'll post the total quantity/cost on Friday when i get back to town, Gord
     
  3. racenu

    racenu Well-Known Member

    Heres what i ordered total and it looks like it came to $1,500
    3-bulk pack. #10455
    4- door kits,#10435
    4-dynamat extreme? #10425
    5-dynaliners a couple 1/8" and 3 of 1/4" thick
    everything is called dynamat extreme, the #10425 is just a small box.
    MY 2 BITS...
    If i did this again i would figure out the square footage in each of the kits I used and just order enough bulk packs, or.....measure your areas that you want to cover and add 25% more for good measure then figure out how much square footage is in the bulk packs and order them, if you need alittle more order smaller boxes such as the door kits cause its all the same product just packaged in smaller or larger sheets.

    I only did what you see in the photos, nothing was ordered for the trunk area.

    This is my first time doing this, i don't mean to promote the product either, and i don't own shares in the company. This is prob the priciest stuff out there and other products may be just as good, but this is what i used, good luck guys, Gord
     
  4. 70sLark

    70sLark Well-Known Member

    I just fainted hehehe whowee whowee thats even more then I thought.
    Yes indeed keep the wife away from the PC when this page loads.
     
  5. PaulGS

    PaulGS Well-Known Member

    I did the floor and trunk devider on my car.

    HUGE difference in reducing road noise and heat.

    Probably one of the best things I did to my car.
     
  6. racenu

    racenu Well-Known Member

    We have a side by side atv (arctic cat prowler) that echoed alot of engine noise from the plastic engine cowling between the 2 seats. I removed the cowling and put some dynamat on the underside of the cowl and it made a huge difference. they say it makes your stereo sound twice as good...after installing as much as i did now i don't have money for a stereo:Dou:
     
  7. dl7265

    dl7265 No car then Mopar

    I have the floors all clean and the Second Skin order arrived. They are 12"x 24" sheets. I was going to start at the edge of the door frame and roll in, but i wonder if starting over the transmission tunnel would be better ? Any advice for a beginner ? I bough their wooden roller and knife.

    Thanks
    DL
     
  8. racenu

    racenu Well-Known Member

    I did anouther car since the black one in my pics and found working from the rockers or doors in towards the hump seemed to work better. keep a nice straight line along the door area and work you way to the hump. In the feet area you can use larger sheets but the dynaliner doesn't lay in the grooves very well and tends to rip the shiny stuff if you try rolling into grooves. Use smaller sheets or pieces in around the seat mounts and areas that have raised portions.
    For my second car I used a product someone recommended here somewhere called Rattletrap ( I think) I got it from ebay and it came on a roll. It comes with roller (its not the Dynamat one and the roller supplied is junk) and a 1$ box knife. The product was excellent and being on a roll you can just roll off the width you want. I found this stuff better to work with than dynamat as it layed in grooves easier (maybe a tad thinner) and didn't rip like the dynamat when you had to stretch it into the low areas, it conformed excellent.

    Tips:
    -Overlap all edges about a 1/2 "?
    -Start low and work your way up the firewall and up the rear deck
    -do flat areas first, then do the hump and maybe use 8-10" wide pieces crossways on the hump.
    -if you get an air bubble in an area, cut a small slit to let air out and roll deadning mat flat
    -ONly do one have the car at a time, either drivers side or pass side, this way you can find all your threaded holes for seat belts, seat mounts, window adjustment bolts, etc...use a box knife to cut sound deadner out of all the spots where you have to thread a bolt in.
    -a straight o-ring pic will help you find bolt holes etc by poking around
    -finally i used 1/4 dynaliner over the dynamat in the front of the car. The 1/4 doesnt conform into the low areas very good so to cover the 1/4" i used 1/8" dynaliner over everthing in the front and all over the rest of the car such as the rear seat, rear deck, package tray and the headliner area.
    -The 1/8 dynaliner is very nice to work with and conforms practically everywhere, so any areas you do that aren't pretty, you can cover it up and it'll look mint.

    thats all i can think of for now, hope this helps, i don't think theres a right or wrong way to install the stuff, just don't use too big of pieces or it'll be frustrating.

    ps, i love the way my door sounds when i slam it, THUNK:TU:
     
  9. dl7265

    dl7265 No car then Mopar

    Thanks for the tips :TU:. Especially the overlapping and using smaller pieces. Got about 1/4 done. I got the thinner second skin so it goes on a little easier. I can see why the installer kids I asked groaned about doing an older car. All the indention's in the pan and what not :(.


    DL
     
  10. Mr62Buick

    Mr62Buick Guest

    EWWW dynacrap..... if you have an issue later on, its a bitch to get that flypaper with foil on it off of your car. When I did the restore, I had the interior shot with nutshells, as sandblasting makes little rock pits in the metal, then I had a place here called Xtreme coatings shoot the bedliner spray on the interior and the trunk. WOW! what a difference. It is sealed forever and baked on. (actually it is shot in a heated room, and when the mixture mixes in the gun, the chemical reaction makes the stuff instantly turn to 140 degrees and in 7 seconds its dry! Then, if there is a issue with an accident or something... I can take a razor blade, score out a section, repair, then have it resprayed at any time. No tar paper, no mess and is made to last a lifetime. Also, with dynacrap, if you put that in a trunk, and you drop a motor on it, it goes to shi_ and makes one hell of a mess. In my trunk, I can drop an engine block in the trunk and it won't damage my trunk or the coating! Plus, I can easily wipe off grease or clean up gear oil in the trunk too without foil mess. Please see the pics for yourself....
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 12, 2010
  11. racenu

    racenu Well-Known Member

    Hey that does look really good:kodak: Ya, I did wonder how one would remove the dynamat, but then i knew it wouldn't be me so i figured :bla:
    Hey what year buick is that your working on anyways :Do No:
     

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