Currently rebuilding my 72 SunCoupe 350 because I forgot to add antifreeze back in block after other repairs and I cracked the block during freezing weather. So while the engine is out I'd like to take the opportunity to freshen up the engine compartment. I'm looking for tips, techniques and colors for engine compartment items. Items such as inner fenders, firewall, core support, exhaust mans, engine parts, etc. Pretty much everything you can see in the engine compartment that isn't easily done once the engine is back in. Any other threads you can direct me to. Or pictures of restored engine compartments will help. Thanks, Todd
Todd, Here is a sticky thread in the Chassis restoration section. http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/firewall-forward-finishes-and-markings-part-deux.55559/ Troy
Todd, Here is a link to the Team Chevelle website detailing restoration of the engine & undercarriage detailing. I used this during my 67 restoration & found it very helpful. http://www.chevelles.com/shop/resto_5.html My engine & compartment were in similar shape as yours... Here is a current picture.
Here is what I used on mine below: Rustoleum 7777 under side of floor Frame VHT roll bar and chassis over Eastwood chassis primer. Front control arms- Eastwood chassis black satin Firewall- Rustoleum RTA9203 Semi Flat Black Inner fenders and core support Napa 7244 Trim Black Cross member. Eastwood chassis black over chassis black primer Exhaust- VHT high temp exhaust aluminum. Power steering pump and brackets Napa under hood black 7242 Pulleys Napa 7242 Rear end housing and backing plates- Napa 7243 chassis black Untitled by Paul Massicotte, on Flickr
A lot of different colors of Black. And they all look the same to me. Paul any other shots of your compartment?
Much good info above.. For cleaning, lots of blue dawn and some water in a spray bottle worked good for me. Let it soak. Dollar store oven cleaner works good too but keep it off aluminum and anything you don't plan on painting.
That's difference between a spray-bomb job, and the detail resulting from different pieces sourced from a number of different subcontractors. When finished you'll be able to tell the difference.
I can't find any that show the different contrasts and glosses between the different blacks. But like Brad said, you can tell the difference when you're standing in front of it.
Paul that looks Awesome, I’m impressed, I’ve been painting cars for 30 years ( Autobody) I’ve painted thousands . Not easy many blow up. But firewalls to get right is an art. What I mean is getting the correct sheen. Everybody makes a big deal of how it should look! But from the factory it was nothing to look at. But there is a difrence between black oxide primer/ sealer and egg shell chassis black. That is great. That lip at the top of the firewall on my car. Under the lip I sprayed some nickel silver Underneath put a piece of 3M foam all the way across so the firewall looked like it was missed by paint ( black) GM put very little paint on everything. So it would always rust slightly under lip.
Spray the metal (silver) lightly and it looks real . Make sure there’s extra fine flake in the mix so your eye does not se metal flake
So my original car color was Cortez Gold. At sometime in the early 80's the previous owner had it repainted red. Appears work(paint) was done inside the engine compartment as well. For instance the pieces that are between the inner fenders and where the hood rest has been painted black. Instead of being body color. So do I take the time now to change this to red like the car. Or wait until a total repaint is done back to original color. I was(prior to engine woes) ready to do some touch up painting around hood surrounds, door jambs and trunk surrounds. It is needing some attention to make the car look better. I also do have everything needed except grill, hood springs and maybe hood latch to add a GS hood and GS breather to make it look like a GS. But was just gathering parts for an eventual repaint back to Cortez Gold(years from now if ever). But if $$$ allows I could go ahead with putting hood on, touch ups and painting the parts above the inner fenders while the engine is out. I'll have to see what it would cost me and see if the $$$ are there. Just wondering if a lot of work is needed under the hood. The focal point of the car is the SunCoupe roof. I do have some battery rot under the battery and tray. Anyone have a picture of what theirs looks like in this area without battery installed? I haven't really dug into it yet to deterimine if I need to repair the core support or replace the inner fender. I have a new battery tray. Also does the top rad support that runs from side to side on the Core support come off? It would be much easier with it off to gain access into the engine compartment. Especially for my fat azz. Don't you just love projects....The more you dig the more you find things to work on!!!!! NEVER ENDING Thanks guys, Todd
Hi Todd Take it for what it is get a new rad suport Also check inner fender you may have to change or fix battery sideNot being negative but this is resto life Good luck with your quest wish you soomth sailing Alain
Decided to forgo the changing of the core support and inner fender at this time. So as bad as the current rot is under the battery what can I use in this area to neutralize the corrosion and cover the areas? I'll find a new core support and inner fender for my repaint to Cortez gold. Got in engine compartment yesterday and sprayed degreaser. Then pressure washed for what seemed like hours to remove 40+ years of grease and grime. Actually got down to bare metal in several areas. Do I use an etching epoxy type primer before any painting? Is it available in a spray can? After cleaning and it drying somewhat I did notice color changes on different parts as shown in Pauls pictures above. Gave me a better understanding of the contrast he and others were talking about. I do have questions about trans/fuel line colors. A/C POV, lines and others that appear to have a aluminum colored look. Brake booster appears to be black and not golden colored(unless it was changed out at some point) I did find a very scary thing though. Once it was all cleaned I noticed just about every suspension part under the motor did NOT have cotter pins in the suspension pieces. Had one of them come loose while driving the car I don't want to even think about what would have happened. Steering box does have issues and PO stated he would change it before the transport truck showed up. Maybe he was already working on it when I told him to not worry about it. That I would do it. Time to get the new box installed and some new suspension parts.
Steve is your A/C coil covers painted? Or just the fiberglass. Can't really tell. I don't want to paint mine if it isn't suppose to be painted. I see Pauls is gloss black but it looks like a non-a/c car. Also your POA valve and lines....Did you paint them? I currently have a charged a/c system so it will be alittle harder for me to do charged. But I also want to have my POA and expansion valves recalibrated for 134. So maybe I'll just do it now. That way I can get the a/c stuff out the way. Also need advice on hood latch color or replating? And what about hood hinges? I have a GS hood, cleaner and all parts to install hood. Are the hood hinges different for a GS hood? I don't have the GS grill and or hood release rod for a GS. I believe they are different. I was going to add the GS hood and parts when I repaint back to original Cortez Gold in a few years. Along with the new core support and inner fender. Steve what is the second quote? spray metal(silver)?
Todd when they paint the firewall (GM) The paint was so thin. When you look at any survivor , there is no paint or thin paint that under the ledge it is bare metal mostly Rusty. So if yo zoom in on my firewall under ledge is metal paint (paint that looks metal ) bluish silver. And yes I painted the A/C looks like bright aluminum. Epoxy black paint first. Then activated clear. Let that drive overnight. Have to clear over the black primer. Then next day spry special silver paint over clear witch makes the clear reflect better. It’s the same paint used to repair Audi and Porsche wheels that look polished aluminum but are not
Thanks Steve...I'm not building a show car so the lighter paint in that area doesn't really matter to me. But for the hoses you painted Epoxy black(primer?) Activated clear(never heard of this) And after dried paint using the silver wheel paint for audi/Porsche wheels(where does this come from?). Guess I could also do my trans lines, fuel line and my under hood brake lines this way also. Just trying to make it look good. Not perfect. Thanks so much for answering all my questions... Todd
Todd, I could give you more advise if you were restoring your 66!, but some general tips: Firewall was painted separate from the rest of the underhood sheetmetal, so the gloss can be different. 66 had a flat black firewall, other sheetmetal was a satin-to semi-gloss. Heater box cover was almost a gloss black on 66. Gerry says the 72 was too. Engine components (pulleys, brackets, fan) were fairly glossy but not full gloss. If the existing paint is in good shape, you can get away with scuffing with Scotch brite or even a fine steel wool. Do it wet with soapwater. Dawn dishwash is a decent degreaser. Aluminum foil is handy for masking odd shaped things like hoses. Hood hinges were usually grey phosphate. A cast iron paint is close. Yellow chromate can be simulated with paint.... a stainless steel base coat, then lightly mist with gold and seal it with clear. Most important, have fun!
Thanks for the info Walt. I would still like to do my 66 but this 72 I bought is now taking my time and $$$. Had it not been for the SunCoupe top I would not have bought the car. I wanted the odd car. I'm currently testing colors under the hood. Spraying small areas with different shades of black to test colors. What about bolt and colors? Are they like natural finish or cast finish like on some front end parts??? Also another rodder showed me the Glad press-n-seal product below. Used it today to mask off fender to inner fender area. Easy and clings great to the fender. It has some type of sticky stuff on it that helps seal and hold it. My car is an A/C car. Cover looks like it's fiberglass. Not like a just heater cover that's painted gloss black
