Ok so I put an ohmmeter across the positive coil and the yellow wire of the starter and it shows a valid connection. Next I used the ohmmeter across the positive coil and the resistance wire going into the harness connection under the brake booster and it also shows a valid connection. So where does the resistance wire go from there? The wiring diagram just says it goes to the fuse block. What is my next check from here?
So my ignition switch looks like it should have 2 connectors on it but it only has one. Is there supposed to be another?
I don't why that would be Rob. The wiring diagram is labelled with wiring colors. It's right out of the Chassis Manual. You really need a copy. I have a scan of the entire wiring diagram. E mail me at Larrymta@verizon.net and i will send it to you.
But where would that extra connection be? I mean the dash harness is brand new. Every connection in that new harness is used up
Rob How should I know? Maybe ask the harness manufacturer? Like I said, unfortunately, new doesn't mean good. We are all human, we make mistakes. If you want to drive the car, get a length of wire and insert a ballast resistor. Then hook one end to the battery+ and the other end to the coil +. You'll have to unhook it to shut the engine off. Until you figure out what exactly is wrong. At least we narrowed down the problem. It's wiring.
I had a similar problem when we re-installed the motor into my GS after the rebuild and addition of a new engine wiring harness. When the wiring block was connected to the firewall inside the engine compartment the pin that brings 12 volts when the ignition switch is in the run position had been pushed out a little and was losing contact. If you have 0 volts at the positive terminal of the coil with the ignition switch in "run" you have an open circuit somewhere between the positive terminal of the coil and the steering column . That is a pink wire both in the engine bay and inside the car. Try to find this pink wire and use a sharp pin to pierce the wire both in the engine bay and inside the car with the black lead of your voltmeter connected to ground. (With the key in the RUN position).
Thanks Ray I will try that tonight. On my wiring diagram I can see the layout of the connections but if you can help me understand the flow. It looks like when the key is turned to the RUN position, power first goes to the ignition switch at 12 volts. Then the ignition switch sends that voltage through the block connector in the firewall to the coil and the starter yellow terminal. Is this correct?
The yellow wire is a separate circuit. It jumps out the resistance wire in the engine harness. The pink wire at IGN-1 on the ignition switch runs to the firewall. Is that wire missing?
Not quite. When the steering column ignition switch is turned to RUN, it sends 12 volts to the coil through the pink wire but the 12 volts to the starter isn't sent until the ignition switch is turned to START. So, only while the switch is kept in the START position is there 12 volts at the coil coming from the starter. When you release the ignition switch, (as the motor is starting) the 12 volts from the starter goes away and the reduced voltage of 5-7 through the pink wire stays on the coil. So, if that pink wire is open, the engine will stall.
the pink wire IS there. I just got off the phone with Lectric Limited and they said they have had similar calls recently. So with the key in RUN I should see 12V at IGN-1 on the ignition switch. If that 12V is not at the coil then I am assuming it has to be the block connector below the booster. It must not be making connection there. Like you said Ray it may be one of the terminals slipped out. I will check this tonight. Thank you guys for all your help. I know I'm a pain! Another electrical related question for you. I have a recessed wiper motor. It has 3 prongs for the wiper portion. The new wiring harness has wires for the 3 prongs but they come as one single connector and one dual connector. My question is which terminal gets the single connector? I just asked Lectric Limited and they said "we only reproduce these....we don't always know where they go"!!!
I just looked at my wiper motor. I also have the single connector and dual connector. The single connector has the light blue wire with black tracer, and it goes to the spade terminal closest to the driver's side fender. Then the dual connector has 2 yellow wires in the center spade and the black with orange tracer goes on the end spade, just like in the diagram I posted.
awesome thanks So lo and behold when I took the 2 firewall halves apart the resistance wire was pushed out of the socket and not making contact. I reset it and now I get 6.2V at the + coil and it fired up! One other question I have is I noticed that my system says the battery is getting 12.8V from the alternator. Seeing that this car has a new alt and a new voltage regulator and a new battery should I assume the alternator is defective and have it tested? I just want to make sure that there are no other possibilities with an old points car. Thank you again.
13.9-14.5 volts is normal. It may take operation of above 1500-2000 RPM to excite the alternator, then it should read normal voltage. Give it awhile to see.
Same problem mine had with the new engine harness and on the same pin. Glad you found it. As for the voltage, your battery might be very low and needing lots of current to charge back up. As Larry says, give it some time of driving around and only measure voltage with the engine on fast idle or more.
OK so next question In routing all of my vacuum lines I was able to use the diagram in the manual to link everything up. At least I thought I did. I noticed that I have no place to hook up the cold air sensor inside the air cleaner housing. Where do those 2 hoses go? They don't really show that sensor in the diagram I have. I someone can help or send a picture of how they are hooked up that would be great. Thanks
