Hello Guys, I have a 1971 Skylark Custom w/ AC. I am going to be getting the firewall buttoned up so when the engine is ready to go in, the rest of the engine bay is as well. I have a couple questions on getting the evap box ready: 1. What finish is the box supposed to be? It seems form my research that lightly sanding it (or using a steel wool pad) and shooting it with satin clear may be the way. Can anyone confirm? 2. Also I need to seal the box to the firewall, any kits or just like a sealant? 3. I have about 1/2 the bolts and nuts needed to secure the box to the firewall (none of the screws needed to bolt the two halves together), does anyone either know where to buy them or does anyone have any I can buy? The pic is a mock up but you can see what shape the box is in, no cracks or broken sections so just needs to have everything removed from it and then restored. Thanks Guys!
1. musclecarz can confirm but i think yes. 2. strip caulk 3.this may not be the exact setup you need but any vendor should have it
The 3m strip caulk has been used by quite a bit of guys. And I haven't heard of any complaints. I use something similar called gum cord but its only available is large rolls. So for one time use id go with the 3m stuff. As for the evaporator housing, I bead blast them then clear. a light sanding with scotch bright pad can work also from what ive heard. I personally have always bead blasted them. Its much quicker. I have both original and new screws to bolt the cases together. If you are not sure about the parts, Id have them tested before reassembling the evap box. If going with 134a the poa valve should be recalibrated. Id also flush and pressure check the evap. I reuse original expansion valves but go through them first. You can get a new if you prefer but they don't fit or look like original Frigidaire ones. Here are a few pics of units that Ive restored. The one installed is a pic a customer sent me. I restored his unit.
When I did mine after much scuffing and cleaning I did a Final clean up with wax and grease remover before applying the clear . I used a high heat engine clear just in case. I had my POA valve redone by a vendor and also bought the sticky thick tape that wraps around the large metal pipe where it meets the evaporator box. Tony
MuscleCarz, Thanks for the input and advice!! I would more than likely be switching over to R-134a for ease of maintenance. Being that I reside in the wonderful state of California, R-12 is just to hard to find. I was going to buy a new POA valve that has been calibrated for 134a (like from OPGI) but do you think it is better to have the original POA valve re-calibrated by a vendor? Do you do it or do you recommend someone? I would also need to use someone for the expansion valve as I have no idea what they are or do lol. My plan was to have everything tested, like you suggest, so that if things are in good shape I can just re-use them. This isn't a pebble beach level restoration lol. Just trying to get the ol' girl back on the road and I know my fiance would appreciate AC for those hot days :bglasses: Tony: Thank you for the tip and advice!!! I will have to try that when the time comes to do the box. ~Scott
The poa valves that places like opgi sell are not actual poa valves but rather just a cycling switch. Most who have used them aren't too thrilled about them. They aren't suited to work with an A6 compressor. You would want to run a sanden type compressor if going with a cycling switch. I can test your valve for you and recalibrate it also. Same with the rest of the parts like the evaporator. Now if you plan on going with 134a, it would be better to use a parallel flow condenser. The original tube and fin condenser that you have doesn't work very well with 134a.
