Expansion Valve Question

Discussion in 'The Big Chill' started by Rob Swenton, Feb 17, 2020.

  1. Rob Swenton

    Rob Swenton Well-Known Member

    Hello everyone
    I Have a question about restoring an A/C unit on my GS 455 from 1970
    The question is about replacing the expansion valve. I included a photo here of the car before I started this project. You can see the copper lines from the expansion valve are all over the place!
    I was wondering about the placement of the new lines. I bought a replacement valve and I see that there is a lot of extra copper line. How have some of you done this install and where did all that extra line go? I want it to look as original as possible but I also don't want it to look messy like the "before" photo either......unless it is supposed to look that messy.
    I read that the sensor gets attached to the big line at about a 2 o'clock position and wrapped in the insulating black tape, but if I do that there will be a lot of line left.
    I guess the main question is did I buy the correct valve? Are there valves with less line?
    I would appreciate any help here
    Thank you
     

    Attached Files:

  2. StfSocal

    StfSocal Well-Known Member

    I just reinstalled my original expansion valve that i had tested and cleaned. From my knowledge, the OEM valves have the correct length lines as they were model specific. The replacements available now are universal so they have extra line length. This at least pertains to the thermo-bulb line, not sure about the other that attaches to the POA. Your best bet is to leave the lines coiled up except for the length you need. This i feel would be the only way to keep it clean. Other than that its just going to look busy no matter what.
     
  3. Utah455

    Utah455 Well-Known Member

    Yeah, I working on the same. Agree with Scott above. I noticed the aftermarket version to have a bunch of extra coils. I need to get mine sent out and tested along with the POA to see if there still good.

    Hey Scott, any tricks for getting the valve off the evaporator? I don't want to wrench on it too hard. I've been soaking with WD40 and some PB blaster. Normal threads? The old leefty loosey? I don't think it would be reverse threaded.

    Thanks,
    Nick
     
  4. StfSocal

    StfSocal Well-Known Member

    It was quite a while ago when I took the box apart so I don't remember how difficult it was. Use two wrenches tho to get max leverage with one on the valve and one on the box. How long did you soak them for? Make sure you have the box positioned so the penetrating oil can seep down into the threads. Then i would leave over night and try again. POA or Expansion valve sticking?
     
  5. philbquick

    philbquick Founders Club Member

    It is important to have an expansion valve that is calibrated for the type of refrigerant you are using.
     
  6. Utah455

    Utah455 Well-Known Member

    Soaked for a couple days and got the expansion valve fittings loose. Just realized the biggest wrench I have is 1”, not big enough for the POA. Doh!
     
  7. StfSocal

    StfSocal Well-Known Member

    I just used a monkey wrench :D:D
     

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