Ok, finally fired up the 350 after the build. Engine builder was supppsed to come over but stiffed me. Now sure if I'm screwed but this us what happened. Did compression test. 180 in cylinders 1 and 2. Turned over motor with no gas and timed approximately at 20 degrees. Started right up.... revved up to 1500 rpm... oil pressure was a little over 40. Smoked a lot out if dual exhaust. After 4 or 5 minutes oil pressure started dropping very slowly... by 10 minutes oil pressure was down to about 10 and I was getting scared. Passenger side exhaust cleaned up and driver side was still a little smokey. Used 10w-30 based on other recommendations for cold start up here in Buffalo although it's 65 degrees here today. Because of the low oil pressure i shut it down at the 10 minute mark. Oil on dipstick still in the middle.. Tried to start it again and won't start, with smoke coming out of the carb. Not sure if I am doomed with the oil pressure or if I did any damage? Will do another compression test later tonight or tomorrow. I have the heavier oil pressure spring (yellow) I think and some 10w-40 if that helps. Any suggestions?
I would contact builder. I would think the oil pump gears are not set tight enough. Spring changes will only raise high pressure setting. But if your highest pressure was only 40 , yes get the higher pressure one. White I think is 60 psi. Thicker oil will only hide the problem. I think 20 degrees is abit high for timing. It doesn't seem like you would have don't damage that fast. Sure it wasn't steam from combustion out tailpipe?
any engine work in wny should be sent to klispies in Hamburg. they are the best. i have them do all my work. they know buicks. anyway did you check the rod and main bearing clearances?
Thanks. I might have to give them a call. If oil pressure was at 40 at start up and then down to about 10, temp stayed constant at 180 degrees. Is that as bad as I think or is that just a little low? My engine guy said he measured all the clearances to his manuals. He builds tons of Chevy motors as we're by a race track... so I trust his ability but not as a buick specialist.... I don't want to take the motor out again. Do you think it's safe to fire it up again? I wonder if we try again with the same results and the pressure starts at 40 cold and goes down again when hot...maybe i should get the TA booster plate, adjustable spring set up? I believe my guy just ordered standard napa oil gear/set up stuff. I really wish you folks were nearby to help.... haha. Oh and with the compression at 180 does that help the question of if I can run on 93 octane? We heard no longing upon initial start up. Thanks
If it doesn't have a thrust plate on the pump, it needs one. You want the "thrust/wear plate" not the hi volume pump. That and the TA shim kit You won't hear detonation untill you load the engine IE drive it find a hill and give it some throttle, if it's going to do it it will be then
He Buicks Chevy race engines. He might have set Loose tolerances. . As oil heats up it changes viscosity or thickness Thinner when warm.
Looser tolerances will give you lower oil pressure,IF that is what he did. I have purposely built some of mine like that,knowing the pressure would be down. I have one that runs 20/50,and is 60psi at start-up,and about 15psi hot,sitting at a traffic light. If I try 15/50,the pressure is about 5-10 at hot idle. I would try the recommendations that were mentioned above. What was the temp at 10minutes?
At 10 minutes is stayed constant at 180 degrees. I will call TA on Monday. Can my builder set tolerances without removing water pump and draining antifreeze? Or do we need new timing cover gaskets, water pump gasket etc.?
Try the oil pump first you maybe surprised, as for the smoking ID give that a little time to clear up as well
I like to set the pumps up on the bench so your not fighting gravity but it can be done in car with only removing the oil pump cover tho
Rule of thumb is at least 10 psi per 1000rpm. When I rebuilt my '76 motor, I used the booster plate, standard volume kit, adjustable pressure regulator, and stock cover/pump housing. PSI was 60 cold 25 hot at idle. If I remember correctly bearing clearance was .0025. Kinda sucks you can't see the clearances with the engine installed. If this won't fix the pressure problem, that might be the problem.
First, Double check on the relief spring, the type of pump cover ( early or later) determines the length of the spring, check the instructions. Second, I bet when the oil is hot, like driving on the highway for half hour, the hot idle pressure will drop even more. Third, the oil will only warm up just sitting idling from a cold start in the driveway, the oil gets hot from engine load. Check the oil pump gear end clearance. Heres my instruction sheet, its kinda soiled.
Spoke to TA and they recommended since we don't know what my engine builder actually checked for all kinds of tolerances and not sure if the timing cover is worn to purchase their hi performance timing cover/oil pump assembly kit. It is supposed to be fully assembled, booster plate, adjustable regulator, proper clearances already set and besides priming the pump, all set to go. I am truly bummed it resorts to this as I have to tear down the front of the motor, drain fluids again and another few days but feel better about reducing the risk of doing more damage to my over $5,000 investment in the motor. (rather than retrying clearances or springs and going back and forth...) I'd rather do it once and be done with it. There goes another $500.....
throwing money at it is not the right move. you can easily take your existing oil pump/ cover assembly apart and check the clearances. it might be properly assembled and the new cover from TA will net the same results with the only difference being your 500 deeper. diagnose before you spend $$!
Agreed. You have to take it off anyway, so I would check the clearance first. In Holland we have a saying:"meten is weten", it means something like "measuring is knowing". If it turns out that the clearance is off, big chance that is your only issue, because it is really critical. Besides that, you said that you contacted your engine guy and he measured all clearances to his manuals. So for now I would take his word. You can always spend another $500 later on.
Yeah, I don't always make the smartest choices.... Please remember, I am handy enough to remove the engine but not technical enough to know what I am doing or looking for. If I was to check the pump first... can someone be kind enough to provide step by step ( like I am a second grader) on how to do this and what to check for? Thank you!
