My A/F ratio seems good at cruise with the " too big for a 350" AED 850 At idle right after throttle it seems to go lean a bit, then recover. The first pic is right off the highway. This pic is at a 3000/3200 rpm cruise
Just posted an underhood vid. Im glad Im not the only one to stray from the pack with my high volume pump and way too big 850 carb LOL
You may be losing oil pressure through the lifter bores if the lifters are to high or low. Not easy to check but it could easily be overlooked during assembly.
mark, how fast does the rpm climb with the s/p now? what is the drop in rpm between shifts and how fast does climb back to shift point?
Funny you mention that, I "thought" I could see the oil band on the lifters just start to be exposed at max lift when I was assembling, but I did not investigate it any further Im thinking your hitting the nail on the head, as that could be the cause that I forgot about! I've been scratching my head thinking "Damn, I know my bearing clearances are no larger than .002, where is my pressure leaking at" Ima wondering if this is going to be an issue with these lifters in the 350 I can check with my inspection camera, now you got me curious to verify If I was actually seeing things correctly I'll look and report back!
Mark, I mentioned that a while back about the Chevy oil hole being higher than the Buick. Are you oiling through the rocker shaft or pushrods? http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/300-parts.331608/
The rpm climbs FAST, the engine literally screams, then bang its second gear. Rpm seems to recover MUCH quicker, I say "seems to" because I haven't driven it enough on clear roads to actually dick around with it and watch the tach. The BIGGEST difference is the stall of the convertor, its much much looser feeling now compared to my other combo, feels like 3500 or more stall.
real eye opener when the engine turns on and runs right up real quick. its better if it shifts itself. lol the converter...your making more h/p and its pushing the stall higher. the dragster with the b&m would struggle to 3500. the 4-71 will push it to over 4000. leaving at 4 makes it an ugly looking dragster.
Almost defeats the purpose of having stronger bolts and caps. Looks like a lot. Now we need a new block to take care of all this and that would be nuts.
I know. I cried when I cut those corners... But I've still got 2 more full thread than a bolt/nut setup. It's only one side of rod, 1,2,5,& 6 were the interference rods. The rest just got cut to keep balance and are going along for the ride.....
Yep, but not quite as much tho, I did get into the threaded portion of the rod, and to clearance the bolt, I chamfered the end of the bolt too. I was going to "cut" the end of the bolt, but wasn't sure if the "cut" would realign with the cut in the rod once it was torqued (torque angled) that's why I chamfered it. I have a pic but my computer keeps locking up, I'll try posting again
The last pic is solder used per JW's recommendation to get an idea of clearance. Im at .032, Mike at TA suggests .030 minimum. First two pics are before I cleaned/ran a roloc disc over the rod corner.
Its moreso because of the high lift, high duration roller cam with the almost square lobes that Mart has that made him have to cut off more! Not as much because of it being a stroker why he had to take so much off, so Mark, if you swap to a larger duration/lift roller cam you would need to go back in a grind more clearance unless you order it with a reduced base circle. Anyone that wants to run a roller cam with a stroker or with even using the Molnar rods with the factory stroke should order a reduced base circle cam to avoid some of the rod to cam clearancing that would need to be done using a standard base circle cam.
Going to not rain this weekend A in car video with you stomping it to the floor sounds like the ticket, let's see that tach hit 6500. or so...
