First time Quarters thought I'd share results

Thanks! Code 24 Cascade Blue. Original Color!

-Jon
Omni Base, DCU2021 Clear. Looks like glass after buffing!

 

It's very important to make the cut on the convertible quarters as George noted, especially if you want to maintain the original look of the car. The contours of the upper part of the quarters are quite different between the hardtop and the convertible, so if you want to maintain the factory lines, you need to cut those Tabco panels (even their "convertible" panels) where George suggests.

 

I 100% agree with Cole!

-Jon

 

I just printed that out Jon, gonna frame it!

 

Shouldn't the cut be even further down, like 8-9 inches from the peak. I've seen both ways on a convertible but lately it been closer to the peak (1-2 inches down). Is the bow in the side of convertible quarter different then a hard top?

Just asking some questions,
Lon

 

Boy, do you beleive that?!!! George hacked into my PC and typed a message agreeing with himself just to make me look bad! :spank: I would never agree with George.... Cole yes, George never! Ha!

-Jon

 

Ok, smarty pants....I will see you on Monday and set things right! :Brow:

 

Uh oh... george is gonna hit me with his purse! :laugh: Better not wear high heals..... Hate to see you twist your ankle like you did the last time you tried a high kick! p

-Jon

 

Lon, you are correct.....I'm not consdering the "peak" as the bend where the side of the panel folds to meet the rear deck angle. I'm considering the peak as the point where the panel "bulges" the most. You want to cut the panel (IMHO) at or below where the "bulge" is on the upper part of the panel. The contour difference I was talking about is in that top 6" of the quarter panel where it bows in....gotta cut and seam below that "bow" if you want to maintain the convertible lines.

 

Thanks for reminding me Jon, have to return your wife shoes when I see you on Monday. She took them off so fast when I met her on Sat, I forgot they were still in my truck! :Brow: :TU:

 

Thats funny! I asked her what you two talked about for the 20 minutes it took me to get there. Now I know! Guess my next baby will have that goofy look I always see on your face..... :shock:

-Jon

 

Heres the car assembled and buffed. I love this color!

-Jon

 

Assembled????? :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

Darn, you are drinkin again! Did you miss your AA meeting again?
Didn't think you would fall off the wagon so soon!

Hmmmmmm, assembled, huh??? Where is the chrome, top and interior???? o No:

Thanks!..........I needed a good laugh! :TU:

 

BWAHAHAHHAHAHA
best internet conversation ever

 

I sold al the chrome, top and interior for my divorce.... :shock: The body is assembled! The chrome will follow...... George forgets I have a wife and a son..... I am amazed I got this far with it!

Its a project... not a job. :Smarty:

-Jon

 

Paint selection

Out of curiousity why did you use Omni base with the DBU clear? I know the cost was probably a factor. I've used Omni base before and liked it and the clear. I'm doing a 71 Convert too (same color even) and I'm using DPLF50 right now just starting to work the kinks out. What primer did you use under your base coat? I've still gotta throw down some K38 or other high build to get it straight but just curious what you used. That thing is gorgeous!

Bill :TU:

 

Thanks Bill! I used the Omni because I was doing an overall spray. The PPG rep said Omni is not a good color match paint, but is great for overall spraying. I used the DCU clear because it was much better, and had a higher build (fewer coats). The life of the clear is also longer. As for primer, I used the Omni Epoxy MP170... i think? Love it! I also used their surfacer and was very impressed. The buffer is what made the job though... Glad I dropped the cash on a good buffer. RPM controlled Makita.

-Jon

 

Thanks Jon! I used Omni on my last car for the same reason as well as the MP170. I liked it alot, although my base color didn't cover as well as I would have liked (high metallic). Did you have any problems with the color such as shadows or anything? I might try and paint inside my trunk lid with Omni and see if I like it ( I know I like the price a lot better!) Thanks again :beer

Bill

 

I did have a heck of a time with shaddowing and striping. I ended up using a slower reducer and it solved a lot of my problems. I would recommend the slowest reducer with the base coat. It allows you to cover without the base flashing in between. Dont do that with the clear though... youll be sanding runs like mad! I dont think I would use the Omni base again. It cost less, but I used more of it that I would have the Deltron. Prob cost the same when you think about it.

-Jon

 

Thanks again Jon....makes me feel a little better about my choices and give me a little motivation to get back to work in the garage!

Bill