floor pan replacement advice

Discussion in 'Chassis restoration' started by dicksgs, May 6, 2018.

  1. dicksgs

    dicksgs Well-Known Member

    Hi again,
    At the point where I am ready to replace the full floor pan on my 69 gs convertible. I am PROBABLY getting it done by a shop. Either way, I would like some opinion as to the best way to tackle this job. Read lots online, and have many questions. Here it goes:

    The current floor, cross braces and inner rockers are destroyed by rust. The outer rockers are in really good shape. I have cross braced the door hinge to striker and across the body in an X. Measurements so far are identical side to side and diagonal. Good so far!

    I purchased a new floor pan with cross braces and inner rockers already attached. Now the dilemma. If I go in from the top, I think I will have problems getting the pan with braces and inners to fit behind the outer rockers and in the back seat area. That would make me want to cut this in pieces to put in. Not great but I will if I need to.

    I am thinking going in from the bottom might be better. I would need to remove the body from the frame. But then I think it will fit in more easily. Is there a danger to my body by doing this without the integrity of the floor? The outer rockers will help, but being a convertible makes it risky.

    BTW I need to replace the body bushing along the way, so if I remove the body from the frame I can do it more easily. I think I want to put the floor in with all new bushing around the entire car to make sure it fits up well.

    I also have purchased a donor frame so the body needs to come off sooner or later. My thought was to get the pan in before putting the body on the new frame.

    The shop would just figure out how to put in the pan without removal of the body. But if I did it, I would likely have to remove the body.

    Advice would be welcomed.

    Thanks
     
  2. 436'd Skylark

    436'd Skylark Sweet Fancy Moses!!!!!

    I've heard folks putting those in through the windshield. That might be a better option depending on where your braces are.
     
  3. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    Couple options,

    1. You brace the door opening I like the heavy triangle brackets there at the bottom of the B pillar, use a 1.5/2in square .125 wall tube run it up the bottom of the windshield pillar there where it meets the dash weld both ends. Wouldn't hurt to use another length of bar and join each 1/4 panel there along the inner structure close to the B pillar. The take a couple measurements and note them. Remove the body by whatever means you choose. Support the body by cradling the rocker pinch weld and by the front cowl body mount perches. They tie into the cowl and rockers really well.

    2. Cut the pan down the center of the center brace removing one side of the puddle welds and leaving the other. Install one end at time with the body still mounted. Then join it back together with puddle welds and either butt welding the center cut or making a backer and welding it in then welding into it on the butt seam. This the preferred way to do it (the butt weld that is). The seam won't be seen from underneath as it will be in the crossmember
     

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