FNG/ Heads Selection Assist Needed

correct Larry, 73 has different width and spring perch location, think shocks too. it can be made to fit......but takes some welding.

the earlier a bodies were also a touch narrower......but you wont find an 8.5 coming from the factory in them

 

No 1973-1977 will not work. The upper control arm cast ear are totally different location and you will need custom offset arms too. Just stay away from anything 1973 and newer. too much headaches.

 

So i found a 64-67 chevelle rear end. What would have to be done to make that work?

 

Who knows... you did not give us any info on the rear

How much money is your budget?

 

Sorry i meant as far as just bolting her in what would need to be changed if anything. I really don't want to spend more than $1000.

 

If I had to choose,I would keep the 68-70 Buick 8.2” over the Chevelle 8.2”.

 

X2
The Buick rear has bolt in axles, while the Chevelle will have C-clip axle retention.
On the other hand the rear in the picture already has disc brakes. If someone has already upgraded the brakes they may have added C-clip eliminators as well.
Do you know the ratio of the Chevelle rear?
Is it a posi? Axles upgraded?
You may still be ahead of the game to look for an 8.5"....

 

Everything I have read or seen with my own eyes is that the c-clip eliminators are only good for straight line driving and that they are leak prone with street driving.(unless they upgraded them by now?)

The thing to have done would be to have the Ford 9" ends welded on the axle so the F 9" axle bearings can be used that way they are less likely to leak for street driving, turns and such. For just a little bit more than the c-clip eliminator kit this would be the better way to go. IMHO

 

1000.00 is minimum for a done rear ... your cutting it close .
How much power do you expect this rear end to hold?
What will you be doing with your car.
If you buy cheap stuff your going to get what you pay for.

That rear looks as if it has been sitting for a while. look at the rotors .

I see your asking in your first post about 2500.00 T/A performance heads which are a huge cost and you will not pay more than 1000.00 for the rear??? not good...

I always tell people if your car is a KEEPER... spend the money as it will be worth it in the long run. Muscle cars are not cheap anymore. You have to have some money to drive these cars. If you can not afford to play ... Well, I do not know what to say. ( NOW you got me rhyming...lol ) I not trying to be mean but I have dealt with this for 30 years were always trying to pinch the pennies so far you end up buying stuff that is substandard and you end up spending double and wasting more time. This is not the early 80's where you can find the cars at all junk yards and parts were found in all parts store for cheap. It is just a different time.

All Chevy A-BODY CHASSIS 10 or 12 bolt rears 1964-1972 will bolt into your car. (Minimal u-joint swap) (many optional gears and posi units available)
All BOP A-BODY CHASSIS 10 bolt cover or 12 bolt cover rears will bolt into the rear (direct bolt in) Pontiac being the best choice for ratios and posi units available.
1971 9172 Buick and Cutlass 10 bolt 8.5 rear will bolt in with a drive shaft modification.... (Very good amount of parts available)

1973- 1977 A-body - 1978 - 1987 g-body are not good rears for direct bolt in.

Jim
JD

 

Good point Jim. Should be around 400 hp the way it's set up now. It's just going to be a street cruiser with the occasional "pedal to the metal."

 

I can tell you if you want fun street car, TORQUE is what you want! T/A heads will not give you torque on the low end, they will give you more top end... Great for racing and higher stall and RPM running of the motor. REASON everyone loved the BIG BLOCKS is the TORQUE and how quick it hit the wheels. The more duration cam and bigger air parts... Heads, carb Intake , exhaust will always move the power band UP the rpm scale and YES will increase over all Power ...But drive-ability gets a bit all or nothing on the pedal.
So if your dealing with smaller cube motors the more duration really TAXES the low RPM performance in torque output.

Just rebuilding the heads alone will gain performance. Most guys are running 30 year old motors and expecting it to come alive with a cam intake headers and carb. When really the rings and heads are leaking like crazy and power gains will be small it not noticeable at all because of the short or long block parts.

I just try to help guys pick the right stuff for what they say they want.
Good luck
Jim
JD

 

You are not using stock components in the motor either. your using a 9.5 torque converter etc. Your not comparing apples to apples.

You have a 470CI Motor with roller cam (which is relatively small for that size motor) and 9.5 stall and a split torque gear vendors...LOL

 

Normally the less cubes and more duration in cam will kill the low end snappy torque. Then making all the reat of the heads intake carb all BIGGER too again will raise the rpm range but lower the low end off idle torque performance... It is why race cars have Huge stall convertors. We have to stall into the upper RPM to get to where the torque / power is being made.
There are always combos that get it just right. BUT if you get caught up in the bigger better factor it will all go away. All parts need to work together as a team for the goal you are trying to get your vehicle to accomplish.

 

Guess they need to pay you...lol. Jim

I am sure your correct.

 

Matt,it's a T-400 with shift kit and the converter is 22-2500 stall.The heads are port matched to the intake and have stg 1 valves.The oil passages have been opened up and the pump is setup ready to go.Just drop it in and try it before you start swapping parts.the guy that built it knew what he was doing

 

Sweet will do, thank you.

 

Leave the engine alone and get a built 12 bolt rear.

You have a strong engine and weak rear.

Set up rear and rear suspension.

Much better investment.