I welded the bars going into the crossmember to the bar going across. This bar also serves as the radiator mount. I lowered this bar 3 1/4 inces at the fram rails to keep it level with the crossmember. The car pulls straight, but it is also a high 12sec car. Let me know if you guys think this is a good idea or not. I also welded a bar across the rear frame rails to tie them together. (just like the rad mount bar) Thanks Dustin
Looks fine to me! Thought of boxing the frame at all? Just curious, what's the advantage of welding these in over the typical bolt-in bars from the GP's?
i have the frame boxed in already. I also boxed the rear control arms. As far as the difference between this and the bolt in's i don't really know if there is a difference in strength. Do you have to drill to put in the GP bars? Thanks Dustin
The jounce bars (aka Monte Carlo bars) use self tapping bolts that tap into predrilled holes into the bottom of the cross member with the other ends going to the frame rails near the core support in predrilled holes. The access hole for the front body bushing provides the access to reach the upper nut in the boxed in frame. The Gran Prix bars (from the 80's G body model) goes across from frame rail to frame rail and is a great addition to the jounce bars. It uses the same mounting holes, but you need to add a couple of washers if used with the jounce bars to get clearance to not distort the bars. Definately tighens up the front end. Might want to add the lower body bushings at positions #3 (midway under the doors on each side) #6 (many Regals have some do not) and #7 (in the back forward of the bumper). Regals tend to have large washers here and no rubber making the body loser on the frame than other G bodies. Finally to stuffen the back of the car, add the #5 body bushing for the GNX which supports the body above the axle, plus put the X bracing behind the back seat. To add the #5 bushing you need to take the rear bumper loose to allow the filler to rise past the bumper and temporarily remove the frame bolts out of positions 6 and 7 to slightly raise the body off the frame al little bit. Very worthwhile.
The body bushings have been added but i switched to alluminum bushings all the way around so there is no flex or roll. For the rear i tied the frame together with 2in tubing welded across the frame rails. I choose to leave out the X brace in place of the bar. Thanks Dustin
The jounce bars are also very common on Olds Cutlasses... both of mine (even the four door) have them.
