You could easily make it with Nickel-Copper (NI-COP) line but you might want to hit it with some silver paint so it looked the same (if that was important). In 10 minutes you could bend it by hand to match the original line.
Going to go down the route of making my own line. Will first bend one using cheap bendable pipe to make the jig then bend the stainless steel one. I know it is 3/8 diameter and at least 3 ft. Any recommendations of where to purchase 304 stainless steel tubing in the states? Thanks
Stainless is much harder to bend than plain steel. Just be prepared that it's much harder to work with than regular steel or ni cop.
Thanks for the info on tougher to bend. I’m seeing I can get a steel 3/8 pipe 12” long or a 3/8 pipe coil. Should I go with the pipe as it will have no bends or it really doesn’t matter?
1. If you're buying "pipe", you're buying the WRONG PRODUCT. You need "Tubing". 2. Pipe is measured by inside diameter. Tubing is measured by outside diameter. They are VERY different products. 3. 12"? Aren't you going to need a much longer length? 4. One of the nice things about the coil is that you can cut-to-length based on your needs at the moment. 5. Nice thing about the "stick" of tubing is that it comes with both ends already flared, and with both flare nuts. You'll probably cut one flare off in the process of getting the length right, but at least you'll have the nuts even if you have to re-flare one end.
Any Napa has 3/8 coated steel tubing in various lengths for patch work etc. most independent parts stores will also carry a selection of steel and now often nicop for repair work. Not sure if the chains stores offer much???
If you want to use metal line, then use the Nickel/Copper stuff. It is easily bendable and is the easiest solution if you have a good flaring tool. Stainless is going to be hard to bend, flare and seal. There is nothing wrong with braided line. I have had it on my car from pump to carburetor for 8 years now. If my garage smelled like gasoline, it would have been gone a long time ago. Today, we have PTFE line that is probably the best option if you want to make your own with AN fittings. There is also push lok line that is very tough. I have Aeroquip FC598 -8 push lok line from tank to pump. It is very tough stuff. Never a leak or smell. http://www.eatonpowersource.com/cross-reference/details/fc598-08/
Thanks Larry. I have an Eaton distributor about 20 minutes from my house. Will take original line and see the cost of the Aeroquip line you recommended. In the end, I just might spend about the same amount when you factor in the tools I need to purchase to make the fuel line myself. Thank you to all for all the info. Will keep you posted.
The only problem I foresee is that Q-jet side inlet. You need to make a 180* turn to get the fuel line down to the pump. You probably can't do that tight a bend with hose, so you will need to route the hose differently.
Good point. I would see a 90 degree aeroquip fitting into the side inlet and then the hose would connect straight into the inlet. Or two 90 degrees fittings onto the aeroquip hose?
They do make 180* push lock fittings like this, https://www.redhorseperformance.com...ds/180-push-lock-hose-ends-1/?setCurrencyId=2 This Russell fitting is more reasonably priced, https://www.jegs.com/i/Russell/799/626060/10002/-1
I still have the side-inlet steel fuel line, fiber-insulated and wrapped with vinyl wire-harness wrap to keep the fuel from boiling & vapor-locking. I have a front-inlet steel line which I plan to install the same way once I change over to the 1972 800 CFM Rochester sitting in my upstairs hallway.
