Fuel system with electric pump and stock tank

The engine I will be running has a billet roller cam with no fuel pump lobe so I will need to come up with an electric only fuel system utilizing a stock tank. Anyone done this? What pump and other parts did you use? Needs to be reliable as it is mostly a street car. Thank You!

Steve

 

What kind of horsepower and budget ?

Aeromotive stealth system with their tank is really nice not exactly cheap tho

 

Yes I saw that but it's a grand by the time it's all said and done. Should be around 600 hp, supposedly!

 

Next option would be either use the Aeromotive sump box, or fab your own then use a new or existing tank then use either a A1000 or modify a stock sending unit to hold a 255 or 340lph pump then use the appropriate regulator and return line

 

Here is low $ option for setting up an good fuel system, just be sure to use an internal style fuel pressure regulator and use a return line that is at least as large as the supply line:

http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/p...ct_id=376/category_id=-1/mode=prod/prd376.htm

 

I agree with Sean, the Tanksinc kit is low budget bang for the buck. I just did a Tanksinc kit with a 600 or greater pump for my 70 Cuda. Its projected to be between 600/700 HP and I am starting it off with a carburetor. I do plan on using FI down the road so I went with this fuel pressure regulator too: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-13301/overview/

If you just wanted a fuel pump, this is a good pump for the price: http://www.gsl392.com/

I used the Walbro on a street/strip car with the Aeromotive regulator and a sump. Learning point from this was sump was a pain to have someone weld it on, cost about $250 with sump kit from Summit and welder. Funny thing is the welder installed the sump on the front of the tank not the back, still worked fine, but not ideal.

Hope this helps

Charles

 

Thanks for the ideas guys! :beers2:

 

I thought billet was aluminum, is there billet Steele?

 

If it was machined from a solid piece of stock, its billet when it comes to metal, not sure if plastic gets the same title or not

 

One trick if you use and external pump is to use a check valve between pump and tank. It is next to impossible to run the pumps as low as they need to be. With the check valve the pump is always wet.

The tanks system is really nice.

 

Steve, do you have a carb or fuel injection?

 

X2 on the Tanks Inc stuff, that's what I'm using. I did have a Spectra Premium setup before, a little less money, but it worked well. I switched because I knocked a hole in the tanks after less that a year doing some thing else. I did save the pump and sending unit setup, I looks like it would drop right in a stock tank. let me know if you want it

 

Carb

 

Won't a good reliable electric fuel pump with a stock tank work with a carb? Why all the high dollar stuff?


Bob H.

 

I have been running a Q-jet on a 455 with a Mallory 140 electric fuel pump making over 550 HP. I welded 1/4 20 bolts to the fuel tank straps and put a bar from strap to strap. This was located behind the dif., plenty of room.
I have the Fram fuel filter and pump mounted on the strap. I ran -8 to a psi regulator on the inner fender with a -6 return line to the tank. I have run an 11.07 at 125 mph with this set up.

Mike Gilbert

 

I have built two cars now that use the specific year version of this tank. Tank and pump are the same, just the necks and number of vents are different.

http://www.amazon.com/Spectra-Premi...e=UTF8&qid=1449156261&sr=8-1&keywords=GM34XFI

Simply mount a return style carb regulator in front of the tank, set it to 8psi, and then use your factory 3/8 fuel line to feed the engine.

I have done this successfully on 500 and 535 HP cars, with this pump, I would urge you to have both a fuel pressure and O2 feedback gauges in your car.. you should have them anyway, and it would tell you if you need to upgrade the pump.

Higher volume pumps do fit right in the fuel pump module that comes with this tank, so I am told.

I strongly advise some type of in-tank fuel pump for a car that will be driven on the streets. Most aftermarket external fuel pumps are not rated for continuous duty.

JW

 

Question..Is there anything wrong with mounting the regulator back by the tank thus using a very short return line? Thought I read that it needs to be as close to the carb as possible, but why?? I don't like a lot of "stuff" mounted all over the place under the hood.

 

Nope, that is how I did it Steve, both times.

JW

 

The reason for having if close to the carb is pressure drop. With it by the tank you probably noticed you had to dial the pressure a little higher.