Excuse my ignorance, but how do I 'tap' into the ashtray light wire? Do I simply cut it, and splice in the power wire for the gauges? Any other methods or special connectors I should use? Thanks
I used one of these, http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/222102529559?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true No need for cutting or splicing. You can get them anywhere they sell crimp on barrel type solderless connectors. Auto stores, maybe even Home depot, or Sears. This is another type, https://www.radioshack.com/products/radioshack-quick-splice-con-18-22awg
I will be adding electronic gauges soon. I'm going to tee off the oil sensor port to keep the stock gauge working. My question is about the temp sensor. Do I just remove all the thermovaccum stuff that's in the LH manifold port, and everything it connects to? And no my motor is no where near this filthy and unorganized anymore, this is how I bought it! lol
Yes, all you need is a single vacuum line from the carburetor to the vacuum advance. Keep everything you remove, it is worth something to the concourse guys.
Thanks Larry That's what I have now, one line from the carb to the vacuum advance. What size NPT is in the manifold? My kit came with a 3/8 x 1/4 bushing.
Question on the oil pressure tee you added. I see you used an all female NPT tee, with a close nipple into the block. How did you tighten that tee in there being so close to the block?
That is not mine, I just used the picture as an example. There is no correct way to do this, there are many ways. the opening in the block is 1/4 NPT. Use a bushing to reduce that down to 1/8 NPT, then use a right angle with one male 1/8, and 2 female 1/8 NPT. You'll be able to make it close to the block and get it oriented correctly. You don't have to do it the way the picture illustrates, build your own.
Ok, I have my Stewart Warner Electrical gauges and I am ready to install. I have the bezel mounted and need to figure out where to go through the firewall. My car does not have AC, so where is the best spot? I have a few firewall insulation plugs I could cut the ends off and use or ? What's the best way to run power to the instruments. I plan on using an accessory on the fuse box. Do I need to run them all separately including the lights, or can I splice the three into one? I have a dual oil pressure sender, should I use it and have both the gauge and idiot light or just hook up the gauge? Same question on the Water Temp, do they make a dual sender for that or just hook up the water gauge by itself? Thanks for the reply's!
Normally, I would say the rubber firewall plug on A/C cars is the best place, but I am not sure about non A/C cars so hopefully, guys that have done this will post their solutions. The best way is a hole with a grommet, so if you have to drill a hole or enlarge an unused opening that has a plug in it presently, that is what I suggest. The best way is to run all the power leads, grounds, and lighting leads together. You want an ignition on source from the fuse block. Run the ground to a metal part of the dash, you can use the bezel mounting screw. Run all the lighting leads together to the ash tray light, tap into it, or cut the bulb off and use the line. Of course the gauge and light is preferable to gauge only. I'm not sure what dual sender you are referring to. Never heard of one for water temp either. There are two opening in the front of my intake. I use one for my gauge and the other for the stock sender.
[QUOTE="LARRY70GS, Of course the gauge and light is preferable to gauge only. I'm not sure what dual sender you are referring to. Never heard of one for water temp either. There are two opening in the front of my intake. I use one for my gauge and the other for the stock sender.[/QUOTE] Here is a picture of the VDO dual sender I have.............
Perfect. Why would you not use it so that both gauge and light are active? If that's a VDO thing, seems to me you should ask VDO if they have that for their temp sender.
[QUOTE="LARRY70GS, There are two opening in the front of my intake. I use one for my gauge and the other for the stock sender.[/QUOTE] Larry, What is the thread size for the water temp sensor?
The only dual water temp sensor I can find by VDO is made for Diesel applications and only goes up to 120 deg. My car is a 1970 and only has one opening in the front of my intake? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Water-Temp...929726?hash=item3d698e2a7e:g:d1YAAOSwf~JbJsz1
Hey Larry, Silly question, on the Voltmeter, they say to run the lead to the "Battery" vs. Ignition Switch like the others. Do I power that gauge differently than the Oil Pressure and Water temp? I have all my grounds done, lights tapped into the ashtray and power for all three to the Ignition on the fuse box. Thanks for your help!!!!!
Are you sure? There should be the idiot light sender in one, and either a plug or thermo-vacuum switch in the other. Voltmeter gets ignition on power same as the other gauges. If you wire it to the battery, it will be a constant drain, albeit, a small one on the battery, even with the ignition off.
