Good Shocks For Lowered 70GS

Discussion in 'Pro-Touring' started by haganlee, Oct 24, 2016.

  1. haganlee

    haganlee Well-Known Member

    I am about to do some upgrades on the 70GS suspension. I really love the slammed pro tour look and definitely am interested in a firmer ride as opposed to the stock floating ride. It is currently all stock except for air shocks on the back now to bring the butt down. I ordered UMI 2" lowering springs and UMI tubular front upper and lower control arms. Soon will be ordering big sway bars front and back. I would like to have the front down about 3"(should I cut the front springs to achieve the additional inch) and the back 2-2 1/2" lower for a slight rake. What shocks do you guys suggest for a lowered and a little firmer ride?? Like the stance of this 70 Chevelle with stock wheels(which is what is will keep for now at least)
    thx
    Lee
    [​IMG]
     
  2. stump puller455

    stump puller455 1970 GS 455

    i like bilstien they are great..... good luck
     
  3. haganlee

    haganlee Well-Known Member

    Sorry, forgot to add the pic. I know it is a Chevelle but couldn't find a pic of a Buick GS with this stance.
     

    Attached Files:

  4. joejbal

    joejbal Well-Known Member

    I had bilsteins on my 65, then i put on ridetech hq shocks. A world of difference, and they are adjustable. The lowering springs will stiffen it up quite a bit.
     
  5. sailbrd

    sailbrd Well-Known Member

    QA1, VariShock, and Vikings are all really good. The Vikings are double adjustable for the same price as the single adjustable models from everyone else. Lots of good aluminum bodied shocks out there now that have far better valving than Koni and Bilistein.

    3" is a lot on a Buick. I always thought the Buick's sat a little lower than the other A bodies to start with. Measure the distance under the crossmember take 3 out and I think you will be really low. If you go for 2" front and back you will be pretty slammed.

    What are you using for front spindles? Lowering with just springs will do nothing for the geometry of the front suspension except screw it up. Most of the time you want to use some type of "tall" spindle or tall ball joints to get better front end geometry. Just call UMI and let them put the combination together. Tubular lowers are nice but really add nothing to the performance of the car.

    To get the rake you want just use a 26" diameter tire in the front with a 28" in the back.
     
  6. racenu

    racenu Well-Known Member

    I agree with Doug, 3" is to much drop you will regret it after you keep bottoming out. I used 2" drop spindles and was shipped coils that where 1" shorter than stock in error. I didn't find out they shipped me shorter springs until I started researching stiffer coils because I was bottoming out. Stock coils are going in now with a good gas shock. Gord
     
  7. sailbrd

    sailbrd Well-Known Member

    I had good luck using a 1/2" spacer to raise mine back up 1" That way I got to keep my Global West springs that were a perfect spring rate. Also due to the way front ends work any change in effective spring height is doubled. So a 1" shorter spring gives a 2 inch drop.
     
  8. afracer

    afracer Well-Known Member

    Dunno what's best beside complete, but any time you lower a car you should go with shorter stroke shocks to match the lowered springs or move the shock mounts so the shock still has the same travel as it did at stock height.
     
  9. sailbrd

    sailbrd Well-Known Member

    Do not agree with that. All you are doing is taking some travel out of the system. The shock has no trouble handling that. The lever on the shock is the lower control arm. Since the lower control arm is not changed the geometry of the system is not changed.
     
  10. mummy68

    mummy68 Silver Level contributor

    I would not recommend a 3" drop. I currently have a 2" drop on mine Almost too lowI can't even do headers. I have a 68 but the 68 and the 70 are nearly the same stance. You will have the majority of the tire in your wheel well and may have to change your upper control arm to something tubular. It creates a little bit of rub when you turn because of the height. If I could do it again. I would have went with a 1" drop. That would have been perfect.
     
  11. joejbal

    joejbal Well-Known Member

    my front end was too low also with spc drop shocks, and tall lower ball joints. I used rubber spring spacers from global west in the lower control arms to get an inch of height back.
     
  12. racenu

    racenu Well-Known Member

    i just ordered Koni gas shocks which are adjustable to fit the global west lower control arms, I had QA-1 but they would not fit because the adjustment knobs wouldn't fit through the small hole in the bottom of the control arm...surprise surprise
     
  13. HotWired

    HotWired Well-Known Member

    Tall spindle or tall ball joints is the way to go. Bought SPC adjustable upper arms for the Gs with a tall ball joint. On the Apollo I got the AFX tall spindle, both do the same thing and fix the camber issue on turns. If you are looking to get a little more drop, a taller lower ball joint drops ride height. Hope this is clear as mud.
     
  14. DeeVeeEight

    DeeVeeEight Well-Known Member

    I just spent the coin on a set of Bilstein shocks (best price was tire rack) and put them on my car. The ride is nice and firm but not harsh.
     
  15. afracer

    afracer Well-Known Member

    I guess that's why Global West is now making Extenze for shock towers for cars lowered 3" or more.
     
  16. sailbrd

    sailbrd Well-Known Member

    Just because they sell it does not mean you need it.
     
  17. racenu

    racenu Well-Known Member

    I took out the 1" lower global west springs and installed stock ones and to my disappointment the car sat lower, I will install a 1/2" spacer as suggested with the global springs. I struggled to remove the front springs with the tool from O' Riley auto parts , can anyone suggest a better tool for front spring removal with global a arms, if that matters, thanks Gord
     
  18. sailbrd

    sailbrd Well-Known Member

    I pulled the shocks and inserted the spring tool that works from the inside. Managed to pull the spring up enough to get the spacer in. The pros just loosen the nut on the lower ball joint and smack it with a hammer. Then lower with a jack. Like to have help for that one.... still scares me.
     
  19. racenu

    racenu Well-Known Member

    I used the tool from inside the spring as well but had a b#tch of a time getting the tool out after the new spring was installed. I think the global west arms made it more difficult? It's scary compressing those things for sure
     
  20. stab6902

    stab6902 Active Member

    Just for reference, here's a pic of my car with BMR 2" lowering springs. As others have said, you really don't want to go any lower than this with a static drop. I'm using Koni STR.T shocks from Tire Rack and I like them (plus they match my paint!).

    IMG_20170626_191534340_small.jpg

    IMG_20170626_191945198_small.jpg
     

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