Headers?

Discussion in 'V-8 Buick Powered Regals' started by 83regal455, Sep 26, 2004.

  1. 83regal455

    83regal455 Guest

    Has anyone used the Stage 2 headers in a Regal? I am looking at upgrading to the stage 2 TE from TA. I was wondering if i am going to have more fun modifiying the car to make these fit. :Do No:

    Thanks
    Dustin
     
  2. Leviathan

    Leviathan Inmate of the Month

    I think Kerry S has run `em. We lost his post in the hack attack though. IIRC he had the same fitup problem areas as with the regular headers.
     
  3. 83regal455

    83regal455 Guest

    i know that they are larger so i didn't know if it would be another headache.

    thanks
    Dustin
     
  4. Leviathan

    Leviathan Inmate of the Month

    When are headers NOT a headache...
     
  5. 83regal455

    83regal455 Guest

    Thats a very good question.

    Thanks
    Dustin
     
  6. Ken Peace

    Ken Peace SLOW PAY 455

    I run them. 2" by 3.5" on TE heads in an '87 Regal-T. I use a 200-4r in its stock position. Prop block in rear brakes gets removed altogether with no trouble on the street. Motor mount height critical due to header-to-lower control arm contact and deep oil pan-to-frame contact. Headers will be touching the frame in places when properly installed. If you don't need this size, definetely run the smaller tube size for ease of fit. I recommend buying a TA deep pan and figuring this piece into your geometry. If you will ever use one, you will need to get the fit figured out now. I cut stock '72 Electra motor mount brackets in "half" and welded the shorter remains to the frame (left on right, right on left) and then used stock motor mounts from the Electra. I have a credit card thickness between my oil pan and the steering member. I run a TA SP2 Holley manifold with a Holley 950 and 4" air cleaner. I have less than a finger from wing nut to hood (GN with bubble and still had to grind the center "T" support out). Had to grind the lower control arm away a bit, too. Do not even attempt to retain the stock heater and a.c. unit. Nobody has that much patience. Remove the dash to remove the inside of the heater and all ducting. Then remove the fender well to remove the outside of the heater. Use a flat piece of aluminum to seal the firewall. Mount the stock heater core to the inside of the aluminum firewall over a rectangular hole you cut for air flow through the core. Heater core tubes will stick through the new firewall for connection. Mount an RV type blower motor to the outside of the new firewall to blow through the core and onto her legs. Shield it from rain from windshield runoff. Put a hot water shutoff in the supply hose for the summer. Retain 2 wipers and one sprayer. One more thing. Pull the engine to install the headers. Lay them in the bay then drop in the motor. Sound like fun? The end result is beautiful and very worthwhile. (I assume you are not a numbers matching collector dude who wants to retain his car's originality.) No I don't have a digital cam. Good luck. Measure twice. Think about it. Measure again and then cut.
     
  7. Ken Peace

    Ken Peace SLOW PAY 455

    Don't forget your G-Force crossmember for your headers.
     

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