Nodular crank #1379242...dated 181 & R S 5200B stamped on front most surface in fine shape journal -wize ...std /std & is manual tranz drilled How does it rate quality wize & what would one consider a reasonable amount pay for one
Is there any strength/durability difference among the BBB cranks? Balance-weight differences seem likely. Beyond that, I think they're all about the same. It would make more difference in how the individual crank lived it's life (revved high, heavily loaded, high-mileage vs. typical Deuce-and-a-quarter old man owner) or making sure the individual crank didn't have casting flaws and wasn't dropped on concrete at some point.
I had a 76 crank that didn't have the N on it b4 but no one could tell me if it was actually any different iron that the earlier ones that did have the the N on then
What I was told, and read, was ALL Buick cranks are nodular iron. Reason for the early cranks to have the "N" cast into it was Buick used a foundry that cast both plain iron AND nodular cranks, the foundry did that to assure the customer (Buick) it was nodular iron. Later, Buick switched to a foundry that cast ONLY nodular iron, so no need for the "N"
Oddly enough I've never seen a BBB crank that wasn't machined for a pilot bushing. I've had several 74-76 cores too.
N could stand for Not puttin N on cranks unless they are Nodular?? But I doubt it. Looks like an unsolicited estimated vale of a whole hundred dollars..& those are hard to come by... Believe I should store it elswhere as to not devalue th 10 other cranks.... Probably needs aged more....