So if anyone remembers I had engine hoped up and few bugs to work out. Fixed header gasket, thanks for suggestions! Well while at it I had a new auto meter tach installed. Old was acting funky at times with false readings ect. So my mechanic while diagnosing why throttle was sticking open (bent rod during shipping fro Qjet perf LLC. New base on way) and redoing gaskets he advised why tach was acting up. The HEI ignition that was installed by PO had it wired to wiper motor, the ignition system. Was getting 12 amps. This situation is sorted but Im waiting on carb base to to drive. Does anyone think this gaff could have effected the engines performance? I had signs of vehicle running lean before rebuild and ran great after rebuild just wondering if this wasnt engines top level from wiring mishap? thoughts folks?
If the HEI was getting 12 volts of power with the key on the HEI doesn't care where the power comes from. You can wire it to the fuse box with the line marked Ign. put a inline fuse after that and you should be ok. Just make sure the power is off when the Ign. is off.
You say the mechanic sorted it out. How did he sort it out? The factory wire for the distributor is a resistor wire and will not give 12v. That is why the PO hooked it to the wiper circuit. The HEI needs a full 12v.
With the HEI connected to the wiper, you also need to connect an additional fuel line to the washer and press the washer when you need to pass, this will provide sufficient fuel charge, and the wiper motor will act as an advance, giving you a very quick overtaking of the other car as well as nice clean windshield.
Why not just do it like factory? Pop the old resistor wire from the firewall junction, make one of these, run from coil and pop it in it's place. Looks factory and the resistor wire is tucked away and ready to plug back in if someone wanted to go back to factory points for whatever reason.
Read through this : http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?th...ystem-function-tests-and-modification.248990/ Larry has a knack for explaining our cars systems to us. Take advantage....Jim
Y’all crazy! Anyways. Finally got car back today. Had to wait to get new base from Q jet perf because first one from them was bent in shipping. The HEI ignition is now wired properly and NOT in wipers. Car runs expediently better. Now this could be because headers aren’t leaking and carb is sorted out too. Not too concerned because car is pissa. Remiflex header gaskets kick ass.
Needs nearly system voltage with engine running and CURRENT FLOWING THROUGH THE COIL/MODULE. Even a resistor will show system voltage if there's no current flow. "Full 12V" is misleading. The HEI is intended to run at, or near SYSTEM VOLTAGE, which will be 14+ volts with the alternator charging. This means the HEI will be getting ~13 volts given some voltage drop through the wire harness from alternator to interior, through the ignition switch, and back out to the distributor. Very good advice, assuming that there isn't excess voltage drop through the rest of the harness and switches.
I've always used a 30amp relay for a HEI installation, use the factory coil resistance wire as the trigger wire, and wire the relay in.
Good point Schurkey - yes, SYSTEM VOLTAGE, which will be higher than battery voltage and not the lower voltage from the resistor wire. Hugger - that's what I did because of the current draw, and ran larger gauge wire direct to battery.
