FOR MY INSANITY PROJECT-- http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=168595 Machine shop reports my block is cracked and Unrepairable. :ball: :ball: ou: I am in socal and need a 428 block, “tight” .030 for my current pistons, or less back to std bore. DOES NOT need to be any special date code, passenger car block is fine, unless you happen to have a real 67 427 fairlane coded block you are just dying to GIVE me!! LOL stage1scott@aol.com
Well, I know a guy that's fairly local to me that has more big block fords and ford things in his yard, shop and house than anyone I've ever known. I just sent him an email and I'll let you know if he has anything. I don't know about shipping from Washington, but if he's got one I'll let the two of you work that out.
Hey Scott I have a very good friend that runs a 67 Fairlane call sign Daddys Dream!! He runs a 427 FE Block also a 66 Fairlane Wagon. Both cars have been featured in Car Craft mag. You need to call me Saturday morning he will be at Galpin Auto Sports with his 66 Wagon for a car show. He knows these blocks in his sleep :TU: 818 535 9114 cell Talk to then!!
thanks guys! appreciate the help, as always, this board is the best!!:grin: Nick, that would be Chris Whitney-I have seen pics of his cars, the wagon especially is unbelieveable. Wish I could get over there to see it today, gonna be tied up with family stuff all day.
thanks David, appreciate the effort-got a possibility in socal, but it needs a sleeve, although that is a failry common condition for FE motors.
My 427 has six active cracks and a sleeve. o No: After six years I'm going to take care of two with Lock-n-Stitch Is it cracked in the webbing?
I may be able to help. Let me check and I'll let you know. Any specific casting numbers or date codes?
Would hard block be an option? Oil temp gauge and auxiliary oil cooler seems to work on the Olds engines with weak lower ends (>750 hp). They only fill to the waterpump holes, so the heads and upper part of the cylinders and intake are still cooled. Probably wouldn't be much of an issue from the trailer to the staging lanes, short little blast, and back to the trailer. Oil shouldn't get too hot that fast.
I haven't actually been out to the shop to see it as yet, they tell me it is cracked from the underside of the lifter valley in a spot that a welder canot get to. So it isnt actuallly a cyl/cooling issue, more of a stress issue near a cam brg. was a damn nice std bore block too! once again, I appreciate everyones non-Buick efforts!:TU:
Sometimes with FE blocks it's a case of mind over matter. If you don't mind.....it doesn't matter.:laugh:
I'm thinking that line too...after all the years of crappy lifter valleys in all the 455 Buicks I had, and a couple of catastrophic failures that had NOTHING to do with the weak, fragile lifter areas of said engines, how bad could this really be? I need to see it for myself, but even if it is repairable or a non worry, I am trying to keep my build on track and not get lost in months of trying to repair a block. This particular machine shop is a ford and FE specialist, and if they are wary of it, I am trying to respect thier opinion as well. They do not want to go forwad with maching this block based on what they have found.
You gotta watch some Machine shops Scott. We have a local machine shop owner who WILL NOT re-use anything used, other than crank and rods, you can't even hardly get him to leave a standard bore block alone, he's a freak. Easy to tell someone their block isn't useable when your not the one who has to plunk down a huge pile of cash for another FE block.:Smarty: I'm surprised Brian hasn't told you what "FE" stands for:laugh:
Years ago (20+) I scrapped a 428CJ block because a machine shop said it was cracked up thru the main saddle. I wish I hadn't, but I did. That block probably was junk then, but sometimes I wonder if it would have been fixable today. I have heard of racers running cracked blocks. Here is a contact # for someone who may have a block for you. 1 973 427 3673 ask for John. Only problem, he is on the East Coast and you are'nt. Mike
Here's one in Maryland. Comes with car attached, http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/sho...n=392393&Words=&topic=&Search=true#Post392393 ou:
You haven't tried FordFE.com yet have you? I think there were a few the last time I was on there looking for stuff. There are also reproduction FE blocks fron Shelby and other out there too. I will continue to look for a used block anyway.
oh yeah, the FE forum was the first place I went. Got a couple offers of blocks that need sleeves, might have to go that route, however I am now cautious about paying money for a block that is not known good. The one that is cracked came out of a 120k 67 galaxie wagon WITH NO indications it had ever been abused or had any internal issues. It was not apart, but I had no reasn to suspect a problem, still had ok looking oil in it and when I tore it down, everything looked ok, normal for a high mileage engine. I hope to get to the machine shop today for a look see at the current problem. As Tom said above, they might just not want to use anything that isn't new. As for the Shelby and Pond blocks, to rich for my budget, but really nice parts!
I am not sure if your aware but you probably are that a 428 passenger car block doesn't have the extra webbing in the main area that a CJ block would have. I wish I had kept my stash of FE parts when I went all Buick I liquidated my stock of 427 and 428 parts. If your going to go the sleeved block route try to find an old 427 cross bolted main block. I understand you can usually find the cross bolt main caps and machine them to any FE block. Since a 427 is a bigger bore you will be inches ahead that way. Oh I really like your Ford insanity project. I wish you luck!
