http://store.summitracing.com/partd...art=PWT-1920-LR&N=700+400018+115&autoview=sku Like the one shown here. I never thought I would need more traction, but this new engine REALLY runs good. What are my options??? Jay
Some of the people here have had problems with these lockers. I run one on a street car and have had zero problems. I don't think they were intended for a strip car. Mike D.
I guess I need a little more info.. Is this the one that will fit (28 spline) ? I don't know what mine is. Is it really just a quick bolt in? Is this a pretty good option for a street car that probably won't see many miles?? Thanks, Jay
those are lunch box lockers, seems to be mainly marketed towards the 4x4 guys, but it;ll work maybe check out aussielocker.com as its a better version of the detroit ezlocker and the powertrax locker. and its cheaper then both
yea myfault, they have are the dana 44 ou: just get the powertrax unless you want to penny up for there noslip or whatever its called, that one seems to be the equivlent of the aussie
The LA lockers...we call them. Power trax lock right ez-locker etc. are great....WHEN you install them correct and BUY THEM NEW. Do not buy used units. your just asking for trouble. Every NEW install went flawless and trouble free. some used unit the customer brought us were junkers and just banged alot and did not work properly. we found that the tooth edges had very slight rounding or chips and they were done. They are excellent for drag race application. STRAIGHT on is where they perform the best. rally or road racing this is NOT a good choice. Torsen posi will accel in this area. Still like the standard posi units that are cone or clutch which can be tuned to work for most any applications from street performance all the way to drag racing and road racing. Hard to still beat a good friction posi Limited Slip Differential unit (LSD). Jim
Jim can a regular Joe (not like you) install one of these with minimal frustration in his driveway ? How long approximately does it take you to put one in ? Thanks J.
I hope we hear back. That's basically what I want to know. What fits? Best bang for buck? Is it as easy to put in as I have heard?? Should have put it in "the bench".
I would buy an eaton clutch type posi and be done with it. hands down the most reliable unit available. for a mild street setup you will not have a problem with it for years. plus its rebuildable.
If you follow the directions and tolerances are correct anyone with decent mechanical ability can install a powertrac into an open diff. Only as a matter of opinion do I prefer an Eaton LSD. As always though it really comes down to your vehicle use/application, knowledge/tools and how much you are willing to spend. There are varying degrees of building anything IE: engine,trans,rear, suspension,body/interior etc. I mean you have to ask yourself, how many old or high mileage parts do you keep? Where is my next weak point? things like that. I personally believe you get what you pay for in most cases providing the job is done correctly and the parts are of good quality. I've done things "on the cheap" before for my own vehicles because I trust my own repairs and maybe sometimes I've just have been lucky but safty always comes first. Now when I build diffs for a customer it is done right the first time as not to spend my $ or a customers $ twice! :beers2:
My powertrax install was simple, the best advise if you get one though is to go to their website and down load the instuctions. The ones that come with the kit are very small and hard to read, the full page ones are the ticket. Use the grease that they say because it holds the parts together and lined up as you install them, if you don't line them up right you will have problems. I like mine and it is very quiet, the only problem is when you drive on wet roads. It doesn't lock posi right away because the lack of traction so one wheel spins for a little while then it will slam into posi and make the car jump sideways. It's fun unless your next to another car. Steve
Yep, follow the instructions ...as always. It is the measurement in the middle that make the unit work correct. The old side gear sshims probably need to be reused. Almost every install that I have done with these lock-right power trax etc have used them. BUT that may not always be the case. The no slip richmonds and most other units give you a measuring block to use for that measurement. If you shim it to that tolerence it will work everytime. Remember this is with NEW units. Used units ...'I SAY' it is a 50/50 shot. All depends on the truefulness of your seller. I would say for the bop install it is easier because you do not have to deal with the C-clip install. THAT alone will drive you crazy sometimes -with the slit they give you to install them in and then working side ways does not help the matter either...lol. So, yah - if you are at all mechanically inclined give it a shot and try not to put a tight time frame on the job. If it is not working out, reference the instructions again, even wait a day and try the next day. A rush job usually turns into a botch job. No one really cares how long it will take you, only that it works correct. Right? Jim
Powertrax locker install in a 65 lark 8.2 b.o.p. Ok so I bought the Powertrax kit- 65 b.o.p. 8.2 28 spline. It was pretty straight forward to install ...it takes a little finagling to get the little springs in there towards the end of the install but like others said with a little patience you will get them in there. I also drew lines with a sharpie on the parts to make sure they were all still in perfect alignment which is critical until you get them in there. I used their measuring block and everything measured perfect . NOW heres the snag...you knew there would be one....my pinion shaft included in the kit was too big at .800 - 4.8 inches for my hole in my carrier ? My original shaft measured .735 - 4.8 inches ????? So bummed I put my old shaft back in. I took it for a spin and heard some loud single pops only when doing left turns- they warn you in the instructions about this as there is a 50 mile break in period so I guess its o.k. They subsided after about 2 miles. I was afraid to gig it to see if I have posi ........so I think I will put a few more miles on it before seeing if it works-locks. I will also put a call into Richmond to ask why the shaft wasnt the correct size and if they will send me the correct one. If any of you pros have any advice on whether or not that original pin in there is ok- strong enough - correct please let me know before I screw something up. install procedure from memory - in a nutshell...correct me if wrong unbolt passenger axle plate - 4 bolts pull passenger axle 3 inches out remove rear cover remove pinion bolt remove pinion shaft remove 2 spider gears and shims place 8 pinion springs in power trax halves with grease put 1/2 left power trax gear on axle - lube surfaces to act as glue put 1/2 right power trax gear on axle - lube surfaces to act as glue place other half of gear assembly on left side - apply pressure to get them to stick to each other with grease place other half gear assembly on right side - apply pressure to get them to stick to each other with grease wedge apart entire apparatus rotate and place 4 springs -2 locations in power trax measure clearances with supplied measuring "block" replace pinion shaft replace pinion shaft bolt replace cover / fill with lube test as instructions say to. Thanks ....J
Wow, never had a break in period for one of those units. Just hammered and went. What is to break in? NO clutches, cones etc. I do not think it should bang at all. all that were new we installed never bangged from day one. We did have some used ones do that and they never stopped bangging. Gear teeth were wiped out from bad install tolerences it would seem from what we figured. I would rehash it with richmond and tell them the delema on the different size shaft. Recheck the part numbers to make sure there was not a ix up on parts. If it stops banging I would say your probably fine but even if it does it once in awhile i would tell them this is not for your car... and they should revise there part description and the years it fits. Jim Pontiac 8.2 shafts are .795 like the 8.5 cross shafts but slightly shorter in length by about 1/8 inch. Jim
Well I talked to Richmond...they say somebody has changed carriers in my car (65 Lark) at one time and that the .735 pinion shaft is an indicator and its for an 8.2 Buick with c clip axles instead ???? Mine had no c clips and has axle plates behind the rear brakes..I just removed the plate and the axle pulled right out. Furthermore they said the original .735 shaft SHOULD NOT be used in lieu of the .800 thats too big and wont fit in my carrier, They say the clamshell halves are designed to fit around that cross shaft and that he couldnt guarantee it would work properly without the extra .065 diameter. He also said they do not make a Buick kit for 8.2 c clips which would have the correct .735 pinion shaft. Soooo I took it for another ride tonight again and it was smooth as silk- no pops as you said- AT ALL not a single one....... so I decided after reading your post to just go for it and not worry about babying it / letting it settle in ......I floored the snot out of it from a dead stop and laid down "two" black patches, had SEVERE wheel hop / shudder and fish tailed slightly for the first time since installling my 462. Since the kit installed fine and the "block" tolerances measured correct I have decided to run with it and the undersized .735 shaft - we will see what happens down the road as I have no other options at this point as they dont have a proper kit and you cant argue with success ...its obviously working- "right now". Wish me luck thanks for your input as always Jim...John
Well, I have decided to go with the Powertrax No-Slip. Something I should be easilly able to do In my garage. Here is a write up. And a happy camper.. http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/t...ax_no_slip_traction_system_install/index.html
The one I run is the cheaper one of the two and it is relatively quiet. You might hear some clicking if you listen close when turning. It probably doesn't help that I have a 3" Flowmaster system on the car. Did I say it (exhaust)was LOUD.Mike D.
So, you use the powertrax locker approx 270 dollars?? Hmmmm, I would like to spend less and get something that would be sufficient. Please tell me more.. A little clicking would be just fine.. I have 2.5" magnaflows, so It's nt exactly quiet.
Installed the Lock Right yesterday. Piece of cake. Makes a little clicking noise around corners. No big deal at all. No I have terrible wheel hop when I light up both rears .. Wonder how I would solve that???
