Sorry if I'm hijacking the thread, but I was thinking about this some more today. Surely it couldn't have been more cost effective for GM to manufacture and install nylon liners on their timing sets than it would have been to just use "normal" iron gears right? Was this a planned obsolescence thing or is there some method to the madness that necessitated the nylon? I've always been under the impression that engine manufacturers use timing belts instead of chains to trade some durability for less engine drag (parasitic loss). Personally I would always rather have durability! Another note to the OP: I'm not sure of your location, but I've bought a couple of used 350s before, and where I'm at in CA is known for having inflated prices. The first one cost me $300 and came complete from carb to oil pan. I think it's a 73 or 74 engine and it has a 2 barrel. It ended up with water in the bores, though that might have been my fault for leaving it crappily covered outside for a few months. I actually still have it and will probably end up scrapping it after I rob it of good parts since I need the space back. The one I just bought for my turbo project cost me $600, but I got to see it run on a stand and do a warm compression test. Tested at 150 across the board! All this to say that 350 Buicks are not terribly expensive to acquire, but treat every used engine as a core unless you're able to verify it's health like I did. You may get lucky and find something that you can just "drop" in. At least bring a leak-down tester and a cheap borescope if you can't run the used engine!
I read some time back that nylon was used for quiet operation of the chain, and to dampen harmonics transmitted thru the chain from the crankshaft to the camshaft
Interesting! I guess that kinda makes sense. With all the of gripe I've read about the factory balance job on our engines I can see extra dampening being a high priority at the time.
I swapped the 300 and st300 out of my 64 Skylark for a Buick 350 and th350 almost 3 years ago. I used '65 frame stands and motor mounts. Transmission cross member fit fine, and factory driveshaft worked. Used the alternator and bracket, and power steering pump and bracket from 300. Had to get longer belts. I switched over to 350 style fan clutch and 350 fan. Used the thermostat housing from the 300 so angle of upper hose still matched '64 style radiator. (3 core) Used a short style 350 water pump. The trans cooling lines bolted up with just a slight tweek. Like others, the kick down is a challenge that I haven't figured out yet. Had to adjust the linkage to get it to shift into all the gears. Indicator doesn't match gear selector markings, but I just count 3 notches to drive. Shifts automatically fine, just have to downshift manually if wanting passing gear. Although on the highway it doesn't really seem to need it, About all I can think of, except I definitely enjoy the boost in power and extra gear. Good luck with the project!
Then if you don't have any luck locating a sbb 350 locally, there is always the 400/430/455 swap to consider if one of those are easier to find. Would even bolt to the ST300 trans in your car already if you don't want to change that? Its a pretty straight forward swap, just need '67 frame pads and motor mounts, TA Performance reproduces the frame pads. The sbb wiring harness is really close to the BBB wiring harness so nothing major there. A bigger radiator possibly the '67 GS fan shroud which IIRC they reproduce? If you swapped on aluminum heads and intake the front springs in your car should be good to go. If you leave the heads cast iron at least swap the intake to lose a couple pounds, IIRC you would save around 50 lbs with an aluminum intake! Remember, headers are lighter than ex manifolds as well to lighten up that front end as well. See how you like how it sits with the new engine in it and how it drives, you may not need to swap the front springs? Should be plenty of power but be careful, torque is VERY addicting! High my name is Derek and I'm an addict.
I only wrote that for IF he couldn't find a sbb 350 locally. Don't you already have a couple of them?
Yes I do, and I have the 350 that I'm set on using now (the one with good compression, I already promised myself I would not buy anymore engines!), but I also have a 455 block sitting around that I plan to build "someday". I was just teasing you haha, I think my plan for the 350 will be more than enough power and fun for me, but I've always wanted a big block car! The 350 I have is nice because I'm not going to touch the bottom end. The 455 I'd want to do properly (i.e. $$$). For the OP I guess it depends, like all of this, on budget, power expectations, and timetable. A good running Buick 350 seems to be plenty for most street going guys. Around here the 350 can be had for cheap, and the 455s always seems to have "big block tax" added to it. Most of the "running" 455s I've seen are in the $1000 asking price range.
Examples from my local CL for price comparison: https://sfbay.craigslist.org/scz/pts/d/santa-cruz-1968-buick-350-shortblock/6829439707.html https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/pts/d/atwater-buick-455-motor/6830731459.html
I found a few on the east coast I'm just thinking it over, I plan on getting what ever used one I get to be a rebuild wondering if a crate 350 would also work. doing my research thank you
I don't think you can buy a sbb 350 crate engine unless its one of those cheap rebuilder house type engines that they use all the cheapest low performance parts they can get at the lowest price. With those engines you would be lucky to have 7.5:1 compression with the crappy cheap jobber pistons they would use for it. Try to avoid one of these at all costs if you can because most people that get one of these are VERY unhappy with the way they run.
Good to know , thanks. what about a sbc 350 I cab get those easy, i was told they have a adapter plate for the trans hook up and use mounts from a chevelle
Most people on this board lean towards the keeping a Buick engine in a Buick way of thinking, and I usually agree. However where budget is concerned the SBC certainly has us beat. I'm sure it's not a hard swap and if you look through the board there's bound to be threads on it. I think part of what makes our cars special is the Buick engine, but to each his own!
Don’t go sbc! Chebbie guys will think you couldn’t afford a Chevelle. Buick guys will think you couldn’t afford a real engine. Put a used running Buick 350 in, maybe find a takeout with T350 trans. Spend money building the 455 for a later install. My two cents, anyway. Patrick
What pbr400 said and to add, that swap means customizing the wiring harness because the distributor is on the rear of the engine instead of the front where the sbb's are. The fuel line on a Chevelle is on the passenger side vs where a Skylark with a sbb from the factory has the fuel line on the drivers side. A sbc is about 125 lbs heavier than a sbb 350, even with an aluminum top end the sbc will still be around 35 lbs heavier. Simply adding an aluminum intake to a sbb 350 will knock around 45 lbs off of it! Now its down to 405 lbs and 75 lbs lighter than the sbc with an aluminum top end. Add the new TA aluminum sbb 350 heads and now we're talking minus another 85 lbs down to 320 lbs, 160 lbs lighter than the sbc!(free power to weight ratio gain just from the aluminum diet alone) You'll probably want a '67 Chevelle fan shroud as well. You would be better off upgrading the trans if you open this can of worms to a Chevy TH350 or one of the overdrive transmissions available. If you only get a sbc 350 then a 700R4 will help you get going with its better 1st gear ratio. IF you do this swap, at least get a sbc 383 or larger crate engine, totally worth the little bit extra $$ from the torque boost alone. A 434 sbc would be the way to go but build it yourself to end up with build with better parts for less $$$. Of coarse you can build a sbb stroker engine if you want more cubes out of a sbb 300/340/350. A sbb 300 can be built to 364 cubes with nascar take out rods and a sbb stroked 350 crank and a .050" overbore, top it off with a set of ported TA Rover aluminum heads and 500 + N/A pump gas HP would be reachable!
This is V-8 Buick, we all love Buick Power! Please don't go SBC, you'll be glad you didn't! Philip T.
