If you are using engine oil to hone, you'll want to thin it down considerably with mineral spirits or something. Any of the commercial or home brewed honing oils are thinner to reduce the lubricity of the oil and help wash away the slurry, meaning that it would otherwise reduce cutting and load up the stones quicker if left thick. Thinned ATF works too. Cheaper when used but still pink. If you use the dingleberry hone, use whatever it suggests. The three stone types are difficult to get both enough pressure to cut, AND the pressure point runs along the stone pivot. You can't physically get the pressure point low enough in the cylinder of most blocks without crashing the stones into the main webs, or high enough without running too much stone out of the block (which cuts that part faster, creating taper). If you attempt to wrench the spring tight to the point of solid, it will begin to taper or barrel out the cylinder.
no, no.. the 20/50 was just an example of what I use on the bikes, either for breaking in or running them. thank you thanks. that's exactly what I do on the bikes, 100,500,1000 and then every winter, which is less than 3000 miles. thanks! ohhh ok, I'll thin it down then. I have a bunch of motorbike oil, but if I remember right most of it is 10/40 fully synthetic... I'll think that down a bit. I think I also have some ATF I haven't used in years, could thin that out too.. how thin is thin? any recipe?.. 4 parts of oil to 1 part of thinner or.... just thinner and runny but not as thin as water? Got the other bits (valve seals, valley pan and honing tool) all ordered from summit together with my friend order...comes to about £120! you guys are lucky on getting stuff so cheap compared to over here. getting that honing tool you all recommended. the last month and half I have been lacking motivation to get this going, but now the date for the parts arrival is getting here that motivation is getting back! and I know you guys are going to roast me on this one, but I havent got the Quadrajet carb... I'm going to stick with the Holley it had for now, it might not be best and get the most of the engine, but as long as it runs ok, it will have to do. maybe in a few months time I'll get the spare money for a carb. another arty photo... my work area setup at the workshop. having a 4 post lift is handy to use one of the sides as a work bench
You got the ball hone then, or the 3 bar? The ball hone is better IMO. And all that stuff for 120 pounds (~165 USD) isn't bad. I used WD-40 for cutting. really any non caustic liquid with some kind of lubricity to it will be fine enough, regardless of what it is. I'd put whatever you use (if not out of a spray can) into a spray bottle so you can mist the bores as you go. If it's thin enough to atomize, I'd say it's thin enough to use without loading up the stones as 8ad-f85 said. As for that Holley, looking at the valves from way back in the thread, it looks like it was burning really well, so I'd say if it ain't broke don't fix it. Nothing wrong with a 2 barrel holley. Good on gas too, compared to a qjet in a heavy vehicle like a truck.
Yes, managed to get the ball hone one from Summit. Well.. I've bought it but will only get here with a friends big order, by the end of January. Ok, that's a good way to know how thin! I have one of those pump up spray bottles that I use for brake cleaner, so I'll get another one of those and then do a few attempts on how much thinner I'll need to add to bike oil to atomize. Ideally I'd like to use all that motorcycle oil I have about as it's from bikes I don't have anymore.
It isn't cost effective to buy a $10 gallon of thinner to use a pint of free motor oil in a 50-50 mix. You wouldn't use 1/2 qt of thinned ATF for one block. Now we are splitting hairs and over thinking things Some of the BRH(?) ball hones for valve guides we've tried suggested motor oil but worked much better with MMO. Mix thin as possible. When things heat up real quick, it needs a bit more oil. Not sure if you'll even notice in that short of a time period, you are just putting a few scratches in it. Disagree strongly on a big 2bbl seeing better mileage than a 4bbl, esp. in a heavy vehicle. (sorry)
MPG doesnt bother me at all, it's not an everyday vehicle.... as long as it runs good, I'm happy with it. I don't think I even put 1000 miles on it a year...
Gents.. another quick question.. if someone could confirm it for me. I'm trying to find that T brass piece so I can mount oil pressure light and oil pressure gauge. can someone confirm what is the threaded hole on the engine block? is it 1/8NPT? or 3/8NPT? found this over here - https://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/gauge-pipes-adaptors/lma-oil-pressure-t-piece but dont think it will be any of the BSF threads right? so that leaves 1/8 NPT or 3/8 NPT.... thanks!
Edit: 1/4 NPT (whoopsie lol) for the hole in the block. the oil pressure gauge should come with the fittings to plumb into the T block. All you really need is the T itself.
Use your caliper to measure the threaded hole both at the top and bottom. Any drill chart or other machining literature available online or otherwise will tell you pilot hole diameter and enough to figure it out.
Thought so. So he needs a 1/4 bushing to 1/8. Most oil pressure sending units are 1/8. There are a few ways to make a tee. http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?attachments/oilpresstee2-jpg.208725/
Thanks for the details guys, I can't get to my workshop till Sunday and wanted to order it this morning... So I'll get a 1/4 NPT male to 1/8 NPT female bush, then get a T piece with 1 x 1/8 NPT male and 2 x 1/8 NPT female
Today's fight was drilling out the broken studs on the water pump housing.... even after drilling and getting the stud extractor in there they are not moving at all. I'm going to try drill for 1/4 size tap (as that's what the bolts in there are) and see what happens. If not I'm going to have a size bigger and retap. if all fails I can always use any bolts and put a nut on the other size, but drill and retap, even if bigger size, should work.
yeh.. don't have helicoils though, and they are quite expensive for what they are, and only sold in packs not just the number I need.
Don't bother with the stud extractor, just drill it on center and it has the best chance of popping the threads out when you get to the minor diameter plus a little. The drill will often grab the threads. Use the various ways of penetrating the threads and breaking the corrosion bond as needed. If shipping helicoils is prohibitive for some reason, you can always drill and tap it bigger or make an aluminum insert to redrill. I'm assuming you have time over cash.
Yep.... always time over cash. Parts not here yet.. still have about 3 weeks way till all the engine bits get here. I did find a used 1/4 UNC helicoil kit for sale on ebay, good condition and only has a few inserts left but that's good enough for the number I'm doing. Ends in 2 days.. we'll see how that goes.
