Man I with you were local.... Yeah...just got the bill for evac, charge, 2 inline filters, acid treatment....and Zerol additive (4oz.) $783! That was with me supplying the R22!!! He charged $148.88 for the 4oz Zerol additive...never asked me if I wanted it......I see it for sale online for $59
that zerol additive is a treatment for TXV's that were sticking and it had to do with an incorrect additive being put in certain Copeland compressors. 1 1/2 ton compressors did not fall under this factory bulletin and you most likely didnt need it. I have the tech bulletin on it and will try to post it.
So are these the zone type AC units? Not much more $$$ than a window shaker. ws https://greenbay.craigslist.org/mat/d/air-conditioners-3-units/6637852198.html
I'd have done that for under 500.00 probably way under. Also there is no problem using the R-438A in place of the R-22. Fraction of the price and cools just as well. I've not bought any virgin 22 in over a yr.
So is it typical to mark up drier filters 3X what I can buy them for? He says he only marks up 10% from what he pays. I guess he is getting ripped off as well.....
My understanding is that the Goodman has valves that seal in the gas until you are ready to operate - made for the DIY folks. But I am not a HVAC tech like above! I will say that IF you replace the whole system go for a heat pump. It's a little more but will save you in the Fall and Spring for heat AND they cool better... And spring for a high SEER number to0 (16+) my 2 cents! Don't talk about mark up - my AC guy charged full retail x2 for Puron when they replaced a compressor that was under warranty!
no such thing as DIY units must evac system properly leak check with micro gauge and use nitrogen when silfosing lines . 42 years in HVAC here .mostly in design and sales .....did i read this right 1.5 ton 3 zones? HUH already lost ?.10 k 1.5 ton getting even more lost ? in a statement if you have R-22 and it is 15 years old or older and leaking or needs opened REPLACE IT period or you will end up hating your life .your welcome to call me 937-286-4343 Bob
There can be a huge markup on parts. I have what I call flat rate on most repairs. need a contactor? 125.00 out the door. thats the part+mark up and labor. Whatever else needs to be done is inc in the price. Im in and out in under 20 mins. part is under 10.00. Having the part on the truck and knowing whats wrong=priceless! If I find a secondary repair that requires parts off the truck you only pay additional 20.00. Some markets like mine offer better pricing on heat pumps than the straight cool units due to demand. A HP will run and cool exactly the same in the summer as a non HP. The advantage is in the winter. running the compressor and fans will draw 12A average. The heat strips pull 42 for a 10KW and additional 14-16A per each additional 5kw Puron is a carrier brand name for the 410A freon. It cost around 8.00 a pound. I charge 20.00 plus a 89.00 service fee. Most companys get way more. Also will give free est on just about every service I offer. I wont tell you whats wrong only what it will cost to repair it. Got screwd to many times in the past being overly transparent. Lastly, Stay far far away from anything that says Goodman. nothing good about it!
not really ripped off .buy a can of coke at sams club for $.30 cents or flemings resturant for $3.00 is it a ripp off ? Yes 3 times is pretty typical for flat rate service .at 55% gross Profit service still struggles to make money due to overhead costs .Mostly due to putting trucks on the rd 24 hrs ,call backs, and only being able to bill out 65% of your direct labor costss .I love it when people say I could have bought it online for $_____ Service standing on its own is tough to make a go of .normally it only gets us in the door for new system sales and grows our business overall in a well run company service warranty runs 1.5% of overall revenue . does the online company come out and replace it when the new part breaks in the first year for free ?
Agree totally with everything you say until the last sentence not a big Goodman fan at all but I do sell it mostly multi family .It has its place but is cheaper equipment .I am a Carrier/Bryant fan for the most part .The Janatrol GMP furnace failures are the very reason its called Goodman now dont let anyone tell you different that furnace was a piece of junk.However since the Amana buy out it has improved over the years
Sorry, missed that point - When switching to a heat pump you should run your existing heat source (oil, gas) when its cold enough to need "emergency" heat. My unit does not even have the coils for heat. I use my oil furnace for back up. Yeah Briz, those coils will kill your electric bill! And Bob - of course the lines, evaporator need to be evacuated - what was I thinking?? The instructions from Goodman state: "Condensing unit liquid and suction valves are closed to contain the charge within the unit. The unit is shipped with the valve stems closed and caps installed. Do not open valves until the system is evacuated." Sorry!
I want to get one as a back up & supplement . 108f it’s struggling and if goes out no one is available to help .
I have 3 systems/zones....each with it's own outdoor units and air handlers. The main system is the new 1.5 ton Goodman. One thing with the main system is that registers being in floor work well for heating (heat rising) but not so well for cooling....not much I can do about that other than add a register fan or increase blower speed. Right now you barely feel the ac air come out. Zones with ceiling outlets blow harder and the cold descends nicely.
Goodman no bueno. Im in Ca so not much humidity exp. I state the basics. Air flo. Outdoor coil. Can u shine a flashlite throught it. Clean it good with a hose, dont bend flat the fins. When running it should have 15 to 20 deg hotter air straight up above the fan blads. Thats above outside temp. If its blowin kinda sideways out the top of the fan the coil needs cleaning. When running the lines one big one smaller. Big is suc line needs to feel cold, not frosty in Ca it will sweat. The smaller line warm. Thats feeding your indoor unit. Evaporator/ indoor coil, needs to be clean. Blower wheel not full of crud. Is it turning the right direction. The curves need to scoop air and throw it. Does your drain/ condensate have a p trap, a vent , at least 2 inches out from unit should have vent 2 to 3 in high. Then a p trap. Usually cap the vent. Duct. If its flex pull it tight. Avoid sharp bends over beams or at the vents. Long duct runs must get smaller in diameter to the vent. Same with any branches off the main line or trunk. Tapering the run keeps air velocity up. Thats some basics. If your icing up at evap, first air flow, clean filter? Clean indoor coil? Clean grill, or return, blower the rite direction, then are you low on refrigerant?
Is it a problem that he left the drier filter inside the unit and added one outside it? Sad to say I don't think he realized it came with one inside the Goodman unit. I'm thinking the small factory one is plugged up and hindering performance.
So Don, I should become an HVAC tech and move to Texas and I could write my own ticket? Certainly a good option for a young guy anyway.
you would see that on the gauges.normally just needs one dryer i have added filter dryers on systems and removed them after they cleaned the golf balls out after a month or so if it had a failure
its a great career.Very hard work .I started at $2.75 cents an hour digging slabs when i was 19 years old .Now Im 60 and still working for the same company making a very good living on salary plus commission selling about 2.5 million a year.its going to be a obsolete trade as all the experts i know are getting old and its hard to say what will happen in the next decade to the trades. I sit in these progress construction meetings and look around the room its a bunch of old guys .Dont necessarily need to be a tech there are needs for installation, design, sales, estimating, list goes on and on
