Hi Mark, My name's Andrew, and let me tell you, I am exactly where you are with my daily driver. I just had to come to terms with it's rust and how I can really do nothing about it. I could get it done right, but that's going to be $2k I don't want to spend on a car with almost 200k miles. Man oh man, it sucks, because I love the thing, but I think with the patchwork I still will be able to drive it for many years to come. Just won't be 100% good looking. I wash it semi-regularly in the winter, but with freezing temps, spraying the water on the paint instantly freezes. Ugh....
Tell your brother that's a common spot for rust. My body shop guy told me that much of that rust can be attributed to shoddy windshield replacement jobs. Some installers take a razor or some other tool to separate the windshield from the car's body, and cut down to the metal. Northern winters + Bare Metal = Rust.
Dave, thats the best idea i've heard all day. And it made me think of the Red Green show... "Possum Lodge Car Wash" is the first thing I thought of.:laugh: :laugh:
Alright everyone. First of all, thanks for all who have responded to my post in this thread. I hope the OP doesn't mind me taking over this thread, but as long as I stay on the topic of corrosion prevention, I think it's relevant and may help future members searching about the topic. I jacked the car up, rolled underneath, and took some pictures today. I have decided to use POR-15 on the rust spots I notice on the chassis. My question with the following picture is: Should I only touch up the "larger" rust spots, or go after each little chip in the undercoat that has rusted? I am pretty compulsive as it is when it comes to maintaining my car, if you couldn't tell, so if you think it's worth it, then I'll do the small ones. Note: They're all surface rust, as you can tell, not "rot". Something tells me to just concentrate on the larger spots, and then keep an eye on the other spots when I do my regular chassis inspection during oil changes. Again, thanks for your help! The Boeshield T9 I sprayed is the reason some of those metal surfaces look "tacky" in consistency. The waxy texture it gets is apparently the actual rust protection. I'm opting to ditch spraying the Boeshield everywhere, in favor of using POR-15 for necessary touch ups. So, what (of the above) is necessary?
I used to have that problem until I started using Optima batteries....I've had a Optima battery in my 70 4 to 5 years now and even with some paint rubbed off a couple of sections of the battery tray there is zero rust where its shiny metal.
On the topic of battery corrosion, is it a good idea to take preventative measures, or just inspect the battery frequently for obvious corrosion? I take a look at the battery every oil change. I've never noticed any corrosion, but if I did, I'd take care of it. There's no chance of corrosion happening in the OEM battery tray, right? I think they make aftermarket, anti-corrosion ones.
Battery acid is very corrosive and a battery tray will rust if it comes in contact with it. Thats the reason I like the Optima battery....one less thing to worry about.
chassie saver is the same spec formula as por-15 but cheaper, so check that out also another product is rust bullet
do battery mats work? http://www.dccarcare.com/battery.html My car's don't have battery area corrosion, but I figured I'd do what I can to prevent any. Let me get this straight though, if acid leaks out of a battery, it will come from the posts only? If I keep those clean from any corrosion, will I have to worry about the actual battery tray from rusting out?
yep...they have that elctrolite gelly or w/e to put on the posts or just buy a deepcell batter like oddessy and never have to worry about thatr crap
Oh wait, I just reread what you said... are you saying that I'm right in only worrying about corrosion / leaks occurring around the posts because that's the only place they could happen? Thanks for clarifying.
