OK so I have searched through old posts trying to figure this out...With blowing through the the oil filter threads, you can only put pressure on the "regulator" valve if you block the pressure hole to the system. So how does this regulate pressure unless the filter is clogged? I'm sure I'm overlooking something, but it looks like oil pressure would be unregulated until it full pressure built up to overpower the spring? If that's correct, how does changing springs change any oiling except for max pressure farther up in the rpm's? Also, should the bypass spring/screened plug ever be replaced? Can this be removed? I have one filter housing that the screen is cocked sideways a bit. I've seen a few old diagrams showing the oil path through the timing cover/filter housing but I'm still confused.
You have your understanding correct, the regulator stays closed until oil pressure is high enough to compress the spring, then opening the valve, I believe the bypassed oil gets recirculated thru the pump. The reason higher pressure is needed at higher rpm is the spinning crank and cycling rods are "using" the oil much much faster for lubrication. That's the best way I can think of to explain it. Think of it this way, unless you have adequate fuel pressure to keep the carb full at cruise or high rpm, the engine will shut off.
There is a bypass valve in case the filter ever becomes clogged, and there is a regulator valve to limit oil pressure. Those are two different things.
The bypass valve looks like a screen, it's hard to tell. Any benefit in doing anything with the bypass? My rotating assembly and cam is installed / degreed and I'm moving onto the timing cover and adapter. I've read through numerous posts here and online in general, but with how difficult it is to photo these areas I'm wondering what I can enlarge, and where improvements can be made other than just smoothing out the corners and removing any flashing. A built T/A cover sounds really nice now... regardless I'd like to learn!
