Next, install the (new) needle seat using a (new) gasket. The carb kit comes with two gaskets, a thick and a thin one. Use the thin one first. If the later float adjustment is way off, use the thick gasket. Mine was fine with the thin one. A metal shield is fitted around the needle seat. It is staked in place and does not need to be removed for cleaning. This shield keeps any fuel spray from the needle seat from entering the adjacent airhorn vent which could cause an overrich condition and rough running.
Now insert the power-piston and lightly stake the retainer in place. If you're wondering how to remove the power-piston during disassembly, just repeatedly press the spring-loaded rod down and allow it to snap back up. If staked properly, it will eventually pop free. If heavily staked, remove the staking first.
Next, fit the airhorn gasket. This one is 'semi-solid'. Only the edges of the gasket contact metal, but the uncut portion over the float bowl prevents fuel slosh during heavy maneuvers from escaping out the airhorn vent and causing the car to stumble from the excess gas.
The kit comes with a new needle valve and pull-clip. Snap the clip to the needle valve, then hook it onto the float. The pull-clip insures that the needle valve opens when the float drops. If the car sits for a while, gum deposits might make the valve stick - the pull-clip prevents this problem.
Position the float with the needle valve dropping into the needle seat, then reinstall the hinge pin. The hinge pin floats loosely and is only retained when the carb is fully assembled.
Install relief spring, fuel filter, gasket(s) and fuel inlet nut. The gasketed end of the filter with the hole faces the nut. Fuel flows into the center of the filter and out the sides - dirt is trapped inside. The relief spring presses the filter up against the nut. If the filter should get clogged, fuel pressure will force the filter against the spring and away from the nut, allowing the car to continue running. However, it will surge and stumble at highway speeds as the filter seats and unseats, so change the filter regularly.
The float settings are the only internal adjustments on this carburetor. The float height adjustment is made with the airhorn upside down, as shown. The float drop adjustment is made with the airhorn upright and the float hanging down. The carb kit supplies a cardboard ruler for making all of the carburetor adjustments. However, it doesn't photograph well so I used a metal one. These two float adjustments set the fuel level in the float bowl. Too high, and the carb runs rich and fuel might leak into the venturi when parked on a steep hill. Too low, and the carb runs lean and the jets might be uncovered during hard turns. Take the time to set it exactly.
Now bring back the carb body you set aside previously. Carefully position the airhorn on top, making sure the pump plunger fits into the spring and well, the float isn't caught up, the float hinge pin is centered and the gasket doesn't shift. It should all fit snugly in place, with a bit of pressure from the accelerator pump spring pushing up one side. Suddenly it looks like a carburetor again!
The long screw fits into this hole, next to the external idle vent (plugged in this carb). The rest of the screws fit in all the other holes. According to Buick, "tighten evenly and securely". Get all the screws to just finger tight (check gasket edges to make sure it stays aligned), then work your way from the middle outwards and tighten the screws. You want the airhorn to snug down evenly and not warp.
Now look at the left side of the carb. Gather together the choke rod, pump rod, fast-idle cam and screw.
The choke rod is the thicker of the two, with one dimple at the top and two dimples at bottom. Turn the rod around to slide the one dimple into the keyhole slot of the choke lever.
Now swing the rod around and into the keyhole of the fast-idle cam. The cam rides between the dimples on the rod. Secure the cam to the carb body with the broad-shouldered screw and tighten securely.
The pump rod has a dimple at the top and a groove at the bottom. Engage the dimpled end into the keyhole on the pump lever, then swing it around and into the hole of the throttle lever. Using a new spring clip (looks like a miniature hair-pin) from the carb kit, retain the rod by snapping the clip into the groove.
Turn the carb around to the right side - it's time to assembly the vacuum choke assembly (the "V" of "Rochester 2GV").
Attach the choke pull-off to the carb body with two screws. Attach the dimpled end of the linkage to the keyhole.
Attach a vacuum hose to the choke pull-off, fit the air-cleaner bail and spacer and you're done! Sit back, admire your work, and revel in the moment. There's still a number of adjustments that should be checked. But unlike reassembly, these are detailed in the Buick Service Manual and the instructions that come with the carb kit.
Wow Great Thread, NICE :beer , now i can start on that 2bbl i have siting on my desk without fear ou:
