I have all but given up on the repop clutch parts offered for the BBB, and likely going to convert to a hydraulic set up. There are a couple threads already on the subject but they are a bit dated, and appear to be projects that were converting an automatic shift car to manual shift so there are a couple differences for this thread for posting recent experiences. The application is 70-72 Skylark/GS 455 car, Muncie 4 speed, Centerforce dual friction clutch kit CTF-DF148552 converting from conventional manual clutch to hydraulic clutch. Please share your experience here. I have done some research and have the following preliminary findings: There are a few options out there including piecing together seperate components "a la cart" from various sources and fabricating mounting brackets and pedal rod, etc. It appears this approach may be the least direct cost while more labor intensive and time consuming and on the fly engineering. After all that, may still be buggy. There appears to be McLeod kit for the clutch $280 http://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai=...t=j&q=&ved=0CBwQpys&ei=sh9GVfD5BIjcoAS1noGQBA ..and the throwout bearing $375 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/m...cie-m-22/input-spline-quantity-application/26 http://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai=...tracing.com/parts/awr-hmgm01101sr?seid=srese1 There appears to be a "turn key" complete kit from American Powertrain for $580 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/awr-hmgm01101sr I am curious about the American Powertrain offering as it cautions GM customers that shimming out the bell housing off the block 0.200" - 0.250" may be required to accomodate the minimum 0.080" air gap between the throwout bearing at rest and the clutch fingers due to the shallow nature of the factory bellhousing. I have not measured what i will have with the Centerforce clutch so not sure if it will be an issue and wondering if the same will be true for the McLeod bearing? Thanks.