I'm fully ready to pull the engine. How do I separate the engine and trans? Trans is supported by a jack currently The engine mount bolts are out and still the front of the engine won't raise. I know there are two dowels that hold the engine and trans together. Torque converter is also unbolted What could I be missing? Edit: Watched someone do it with a lot of heat to the dowel pins. What type of heating "thing" "torch" whatever should I get? And any recommendations
Just thinking but. Try prying them apart with a rag at the end of your crowbar so you don't do any damage. You could just take it out with the trans too to work on it outside the car. Go around with your fingers for any missing bolts. You say the torque converter loose, are you sure. Have all the bolt been taken out from where they meet, ain't it 4 or 6
If the motor mount long bolts are out, the engine should start to lift. DO NOT start prying on the engine and trans without the engine lifted off of the motor mounts! It needs to be off of the mounts so it can move forward to separate the two. You may have to much jack pressure on the trans locking the engine on the mounts. Let the pressure out of the jack so it is about a 1/2" away from the trans and then try to lift engine off mounts. After it clears mounts , raise jack back up to lightly contact trans and rock engine back and forth, it should separate doing so. Be careful.
I went to the store and bought a propane torch and I was able to separate the driver side. Onto the passenger side.
Both sides are now free, but now I can't raise the engine because the dowels are still in the trans. I can't move it back and can't move the engine forward. What options do I have?
Don't need to remove hood if you get rid of the engine balancer and just run a chain across the engine diagonally from front to rear close to engine to gain the boom clearance you'll need to clear hood. Also shorten the hook on the boom as much as possible to gain even more. From looking at the picture if you do that you should be able to get her out no problem.
I'd go with as short a chain as possible between cylinder #'s 5&6 on a pair of short bolts in the headbolt holes. Those levelers never seem to work for me. So the motor is two feet away from the trans dowels; or was that before the lift? When separating the two, put a piece of wood on the trans pan; dont wanna collapse that one. You then need to lift the motor outa the mounts AND raise the trans to keep the mating surfaces parallel. As short as the dowels are you may need to wiggle it from side to side to split them. You still need to mind all the parallel stuff tho. So now the motor is up in the air and you need to set it back down to change the rig? Just set it down easy on the cross member. Maybe have an extra person to balance it while you replace all the china stuff with a chain. You may get it close enough to almost land it on the mounts. Stuff some short 2x4's in there. Yer lucky you took all the front stuff off; that gained you a foot right there! ws
Today was the second most productive day in my existence, yesterday was the first. The volume of sludge in the bottom of the pan was at least a pint. Went 2" up the wall of the bottom of the pan. How it ran, I'm still guessing. All camshaft bearings are in great shape though. I will slap the 12" converter in tomorrow, do everything necessary to the oil pan and related gasketry, slap the cam in and matching lifters, and maybe just feel very accomplished.
You might regeret not doing a ring and bearing job while its out... Just sayin'. When you go back in, pick up some 4" long studs for the bell housing bolts to help line the dowels up. Sometimes the hand is quicker than the RYE. ws
Ive pulled many an engine. More than I care to remember. Pulled the engine 3 times on my 69 Riv. I always prefer to pull the engine and trans together. I find its just easier than trying to separate and then mate back together in the car. Plus, you can degrease the trans and pressure wash the engine compartment while its out. Just a matter of preference. And I wouldn't pull an engine without a tilter. Best thing I ever bought. Make life so much easier
It's a used Scott Brown grind with the matching set of lifters used in the earlier engine 219/238 @ .050 275/296 advertised .490/.460 lift 109 LSA 3* advance ground in
