A brief story - No appliance service shop wants to do the work, they beat around the bush and price the work ridiculously (+$500 for labor) - previous 7 shops said it was a $300 job + parts, and suspiciously enough none can do the work in a reasonable 2 week time frame. The manf. is a PITA regarding parts - I think this is why the shops don't want the work. In short, I have an expensive fridge (> $1K) that lasted 1yr 11month and died while on vacation. I did pay a professional to tell me the compressor is broken (runs but no compression -static 55-60 PSI on low side should be 2-5 psi) this was after I bought a quick valve, measured with my own gauges and came to the same conclusion. This was over two weeks ago. Image my frustration from everyone including the service shop that provided the diagnosis and stated they would follow-up when the parts were received from the manf. AFTER they had spent time coordinating with me and the manf. to get approvals!!! (I finally called the shop, they weren't comfortable with submitting the parts request - WTH, thanks for wasting my time. I am just going to do it myself. Compressor is $300. I need tips and tricks from those who have done it or are appliance professionals. I have already watched several Youtube videos. Here are some questions I have. 1.) Is there a technique to use the new compressor to evacuate the current system thus preserving freon? Not a huge deal to me. I can just do it without recovery, but want to be a responsible as possible. 2.) I presume fridge compressors come packaged with oil (pre-lubed) as they are meant to be self contained - is this true? If not what oil/lubricant should I purchase. 3.) Youtube videos show an acetylene torch used - I assume for quick soldering. I have and use MAP torches, just easier for me. Will this work? 4.) Following on number 3, I see stick variants of solder in videos - is this specific and unique to this application or could I use standard solder often used for copper plumbing? 5.) Does the dryer REALLY need to be changed? Please chime in. I want this expensive piece of crap working with out much more $$$ coming out of my pocket. btw - I do now have a nice little temporary fridge. I just might promote it to garage duty after all this. Thanks!!!
I am an AC/Refrigeration contractor. I would make sure the compressor is not under warranty as you state it is 23 months old. Usually compressors are warrantied for 5 years. The supplier should be able to tell you from the model/serial number of the fridge. 1. Yes you are supposed to recover the Freon but there is so little in there I would just dump it. (you did not hear that from me) If you can recover it you can try but you will have no way of knowing exactly how much you recovered. FRIDGES ARE EXTREMELY CRITICAL OF FREON CHARGE, YOU MUST WEIGH IN THE EXACT AMOUNT IT TELLS YOU ON THE NAMEPLATE SO REUSING THE EXISTING FREON IS REALLY POINTLESS. 2. You can solder those small lines with a map torch but you should use 15%-30% silver solder. You cannot use lead based solder as the propellant will eat through it. 3. The compressor will come with lube. 4. The dryer needs to be changed as you have no way of knowing what is now caught in it from the compressor fail. Could be plugged up don't take the chance on a $10 piece. 5. Evacuate the system down to 500 microns maximum if it is a cap tube system as any moisture will freeze in the tube and plug it up rendering your work useless. Mikey
i would not use pag oil to lube it. this a semi educated guess. pag oil conducts electricity and is flammable. it can not be used in hybrid cars with electric ac compressors due to an explosion hazard. i would assume that to be the same with 110v units. at least check it out..
if you don't have a vacuum pump and micron gauge I wouldn't do it yourself. I am an HVAC and refrigeration tech. that unit most likely has R134a refrigerant and POE oil and that oil acts like a sponge for moisture. you can't remove moisture from POE oil by pulling a vacuum so you have to work in a timely fashion once the system is open. you will absolutely want to change the dryer. there is a reason shops are not wanting to do this for you.. 7 out of 10 times the cap tube is restricted and that is why the compressor failed. we started using R414b (hotshot) in place of the R134A because it actually tends to cleanse the cap tube as it circulates through it if not already plugged.
The other thing that is normally done on a refrigeration compressor replacement ( especially a cap tube system) is to purge the system with dry Nitrogen to prevent carbon scaling inside the lines which can cause plugging of cap tubes.
Thank you for the insights. I will purchase the dryer as well - it is true all parts are under warranty but labor exceeds just doing it myself and the Manf will not ship parts to individuals. So Im up the creek without a paddle on this. I may pester a few more shops including the Manf certified shops, but I am not holding out hope they do the polite two step (I wished they would just say no). I appear to be the only one calling about an LG fridge that took a dump. Funny how businesses have multiple names...seem shady to me....but I guess that may be a artifact of the business as they all seem to have or refer to two technician that are certified to do the job in the Denver area. Additional Q's: I have standard AC gauges, If I pull a vacuum to 22inHG is that sufficient? I am going back through all the info I have regarding total required R134a for the the system. Its just shy of two can iirc. I'll look into sourcing silvr 15, the local appliance part shop may have it. For reference here are the PN (this is an LG fridge): Compressor: TCA35911903 Dryer: 5851jA2008X Thank you again! -Chad
22 inches of vacuum wont even move the micron gauge and wont be enough to remove moisture from the system. Moisture is your enemy in a refrigeration system
Being in the business for over 20 years I cannot add anything to the above instructions. Stuff like this is a pain but can be done. Although I can totally fix just about anything in the house I have a sears master service agreement that covers all my appliances. 500 a yr. if they cant / dont want to fix it they replace it. Already got a 1200.00 micro and a 2300.00 fridge.
http://www.kylesconverter.com/pressure/microns-of-mercury-to-inches-of-mercury I used the following calculator to convert micron to inHG. 1 Inches Of Mercury to Microns Of Mercury = 25400.0003 500 Microns Of Mercury to Inches Of Mercury = 0.0197 Is this wrong.? 22inHG is ~558,000 microns. Is this wrong? Therefore to meet the 500 micron stated going 22inHG vacuum seems to exceed this requirement. Or am I missing something obvious? Here are two sources: http://www.kylesconverter.com/pressure/microns-of-mercury-to-inches-of-mercury Here is a second: http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/vacuum-converter-d_460.html
typically you wont see the micron gauge start to drop much until you reach 29 inches of vacuum on your gauges. you could always pull an initial vacuum and then break the vacuum with dry nitrogen which will also absorb moisture and then pull a vacuum again.
Ok. Called around again. Same story. No tech will touch this system 1.) because of manf and warranty arrangements even the certified shops. 2.) low turnover high risk. The tech I talked to today has standing orders not to touch warranty repair for the closed (refrigeration) systems - compressor replacement. I asked who he would recommend. He say basically no shop today will do the work. Fortunately I have a neighbor that has got the tools (including recovery system) and the expertise. So, now to order the parts.
I'm cut from the same bread you are. I would rather fix something than replace it. however, it seems like you are setting yourself up for a fool's errand. there must be something you are overlooking here. the other thing to consider is the efficiency of the fridge when you are done. if it's reduced by 10% you'll pay way more in the long run. just my .02...
Good point Joe. It is a gamble, but since at this point I have a neighbor who is a professional, even at 10% efficiency hit its worth getting this fridge up and running and maybe even sell it off at 1/2 the current (identical) model new price.
It seems all our major appliance are JUNK. 3-5 years life expectancy. Fridges used to last 20+ years. We had a new maytag washer that we purchased 4 years ago. it lasted 18 months. I purchased a new Garrison dehumidifier in may 2016. It is dead but fortunately the compressor is warrantied 5 years. It is all called "built-in obsolescence" !!
One of the strange benefits of buying used, whatever it may be. Our Buicks included. If it lasted this long, then it should be fine. Eg: we were dirt poor when we bought our foreclosed house in '11. Bought a 3+ year old kitchenaid fridge and it still runs perfectly.
as soon as appliances and HVAC equipment went to printed circuit boards for controls instead of relays and timers the lifespan was greatly reduced. planned obsolescence is what they call it now
Exactly. Recently I saw a older produced show on Discovery/History / A&E and it showed the secret life of appliances. One of the things they stated was the best engineered and longest lasting appliances in the home were the fridge and washing machine. I know of plenty 20 - 30+ yr old fridges in people's garages and man caves still working perfectly. Our first washer, which I found in the alley behind our house, lasted us 15 years. It had a spring wound timer. Was still running just started leaking from the seal in the bottom of the tub.The replacement, Kenmore Oasis, has needed many repairs over the last 8 years inc the printed board.
