installing an shelf carb

Discussion in 'The Venerable Q-Jet' started by BIG FRANK JOHNSON, May 5, 2018.

  1. BIG FRANK JOHNSON

    BIG FRANK JOHNSON Well-Known Member

    Want to install a carb that I have had wrapped on a shelf for 12 years. Was rebuilt before shelved. Do I have to do anything special before installing? Thanks Frank
     
  2. carmantx

    carmantx Never Surrender

    You might give it a try, but watch close to make sure needle/seat will hold and not overflow the bowl.

    Fuels have changed and parts have changed in 12 years. I would recommend changing accelerator pump and needle/seat just to make sure they are compatible with today’s fuels.
     
  3. BIG FRANK JOHNSON

    BIG FRANK JOHNSON Well-Known Member

  4. techg8

    techg8 The BS GS

    I would fill it with fuel through the top vent so the accelerator pump, if stuck, has a chance to loosen up before stroking.
     
  5. buick64203

    buick64203 Right wing conservative Staff Member

    If it were me, I'd blow it apart, clean it up and throw a rebuilt kit in it just for peace of mind. Gaskets dry out, needles and seats go bad. Were any of the kit parts even ethanol compatible 12 years ago?
     
    techg8 likes this.
  6. BIG FRANK JOHNSON

    BIG FRANK JOHNSON Well-Known Member

    Gentlemen very good recommendations. Thank you Frank
     
  7. Cliff R

    Cliff R Well-Known Member

    The N/S assemblies have always been Viton dating clear back into the 1970's. At least with the factory parts, not sure what the aftermarket was using. Avoid any rebuild kit "over the counter", they will have poor quality parts and the wrong N/S assembly in them.

    The currently available accl pump seals showing up in over the counter kits are "soft" and will fail in this new fuel. I see this more than most who will post here. Yes, I know that many are "blue" and supposed to be "ethanol resistant", but they are JUNK.

    The older style floats were also a lighter color and open cell material. Not sure exactly when they made the switch to closed cell but for sure change the float to the current close cell nitrophy material while it is apart.

    NEVER for any reason use a brass float, they are too heavy, and this fuel eats the solder up in them and they will sink to the bottom of the bowl.....the failure rate on the current production brass floats is 100 percent. We found this out here the hard way a few years ago, as we also rebuild AFB's and other types of carbs that use brass floats. One by one they all came back, some were out there a couple of years, some a few weeks, but every single brass float we installed failed and filled up with fuel and sank.

    We have had zero failures in this fuel with the current production nitrophyl floats that we sell......FWIW......Cliff
     
    300sbb_overkill likes this.
  8. DEADMANSCURVE

    DEADMANSCURVE my first word : truck

    Cliff , thanks for the brass floats info . I've always been partial to those . No problems so far but you are looking at way more feedback than I get . I'm willing to use whatever works best and keeps people happy . Probably no choice on the Edelbrock carbs .
    Any thoughts on the plastic floats Holley uses ?
     
  9. Cliff R

    Cliff R Well-Known Member

    I've never had any troubles with plastic floats in Holley carbs, but use and prefer the nitrophyl instead......Cliff
     
    300sbb_overkill likes this.
  10. DEADMANSCURVE

    DEADMANSCURVE my first word : truck

    Appreciate the input . Thanks .
     
  11. HotRodRivi

    HotRodRivi Tomahawks sighted overseas

    I would unwrap it first!!
     
  12. BIG FRANK JOHNSON

    BIG FRANK JOHNSON Well-Known Member

    Installed the carb, added fuel thru vent, it started. Only had to adjust screws. Been running fine. Thanks for the advice. Frank
     

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