Have a 71 w/factory a/c. Had new POA valve put on and switched over to new freon-had a shop do it. Recharged the system a few weeks ago(slow leak) and ac was cranking great then the other day POP and a bunch of oil sprayed out of the compressor and all over the place. Think the oil pump or seal went. The oil was brown...not clear. The compressor is a reman. Looks like dryer is origional. I've looked at the shop manual and it looks pretty straight forward to replace..except for the oil which I assume comes in the new ones. Any suggestions would be appreciated! Chris
You can handle the job with hand tools, but you'll still need a shop to evac the system, check for the leaks and recharge. Plan on a new dryer. The longer the system is open to air the shorter the original's lifespan will be, provided it has any life left as-is. With the new part in hand, I'd let the shop install it just prior to buttoning up the system. Devon
How do you evacuate the system with the shop vac? I'm assuming that the system lost all freon... So replace everything, charge it and then replace the dryer-have a pro do that part? I read that the decasant in the dryer can go bad quick if not done properly...plus the compressor comes with a 1 yr warranty if the dryer is replaced. The shop manual looked pretty detailed...my only question is do quality remanufactured compressors come filled with oil..every parts place says they think so but not positive...my NAPA guy couldn't even tell me. Thanks again-
You need to find a repair SHOP to use their equipment to eVACuate the system after it's all put together with your new parts. No way! Why would you charge it, then break the system open all over again to replace a part???? You want all the new parts installed prior to charging the system. No offense, I'd let the repair shop handle everything, then you'll have them standing behind their work as well.. Devon
Thanks for your suggestion. The sequence didn't make sense to me and maybe I didn't communicate my thoughts well. I get the basic idea-replace the defective parts and charge the system. The oil was the question that the parts suppliers couldn't answer-I'm assuming the compressor comes filled with oil.
I had to put oil in my compressor. The oil being brown sounds like acid is in the system. A simple acid test should be done. if it where me I would flush the system out.ex the compressor and dryer. Once all new parts are installed then you Need to pull a vac on the system MVAC standard is 0psi. This will boil and remove all moisture and noncondensibles from the system. Once the correct vac is achieved then turn the Gauge manifold valves off and (red and blue knobs)disconnect the hose at the vac pump and connect your freon supply to that hose. Its pretty easy if you have the tools. Cheers!:beer
Thanks for the encouragement-I'm gonna get it cool again-99* in GA w/no a/c is a little uncomfortable!
No problem one you get it goin it wil take the humidity right out the air and all will be good. Let me know if I can help:beer
Oil doesn't come in any of them, you will want to replace the receiver/dryer if you're replacing the compressor. For R134A, use 11oz. of PAG 46 oil. Put half of it into the suction side of the compressor and the other half of the oil in the dryer through the port that would connect to the condensor. Also, I would have the whole system evacuated to 28 inches of vaccuum for a minimum of 20 minutes and then charged with Nitrogen and then leak checked. Once you verify no leaks, have it vaccummed down to the 28 inches again and then recharged to 70-80% of wht the R12 capacity is. If I remember correctly, the system full charge capacity with R12 is 3-3/4 lbs which means about 3 pounds of R134A. When you have your system full charged, your pressure gauges should read around 30psi from the valve on low side (POA valve) and about 2.5 time the ambient outside temperature on the high side (back of compressor). I know, kind of lengthy but I am currently replacing the complete system on my 70 and this is the information I found for converting to R134A. Hope it helps.
We changed over to RU134 and it ran great with the old components...I was surprised how well it cooled...the old components were the problem! I may bite the bullet and have the compressor and dryer installed by a shop-the labor isn't that much...just the parts. Dang 40 year old cars...guess that's a pretty good service record though for 40 years! Chris
You're right on the money except for this part. This recommendation is for later model(post ~1978) compressors that don't have a sump. The original A6 has a sump much like a small engine. The oil is drained from, and added to the compressor via the fill plug in the case. You do NOT add oil to the refrigerant loop in most of the systems that we deal with here. Many compressors come pre-filled with oil. With an A6, it's likely to be mineral oil for R12. If converting to R134a, this oil needs to be drained, the compressor flushed with the oil you plan to use, and then filled to the proper spec.
Fixed-reman compressor,new dryer-had a new hose made by a local shop(30$)...all for about $375. Did all the installation and had the shop evacuate, flush, pressure check change oil and fill w/freon. Blows 40deg when cruising on the hwy. Success! Thanks for the suggestions-Chris
