Is the Buick 455 a weak engine?

@Jess: WOW!!! How is the driveability of the engine? What converter do you run? Did you ever have any issues not using a girdle and stock rods? How high do you rev it? What is your shiftpoint?

 

Driveability is great, but I have a kickass cooling system as well. I drive and cruised it all the time.

When I ran it at the track it was on a stock converter, I have since bought a coan.

no issues whatsoever..

I have hit 6000 with no probs

I shift at 5600-5800

 

So the Comp XE 274 cam can be used with a stock converter? I thought it was a little too steep for that. How does it idle? Enough vacuum for powerbrakes? Did you change to the new converter because of driveability issues or because you wanted more performance? What ist the stall of the new converter? I would like to keep the stockconverter if possible. Do you think this will work?

One other question: Wich intake do you run? The article showed both the performer and the SP1 - wich one did you choose?

One more: what gear did you use to achive the above mentioned tracktimes?

 

So the Comp XE 274 cam can be used with a stock converter? YES
I thought it was a little too steep for that. How does it idle? I like the rough stumbly idle, but I cruised it and had no probs at lights
Enough vacuum for powerbrakes? I added a power brake system and 4 wheel discs to my car, so yes again..
Did you change to the new converter because of driveability issues or because you wanted more performance? More performance
What ist the stall of the new converter? 2500 it needs to be 3500 so I am sending it to coan and have them fix it
I would like to keep the stockconverter if possible. Do you think this will work? yes you can keep the stock converter, you will not have the best performance, but if you not racing it, who cares..

One other question: Wich intake do you run? The article showed both the performer and the SP1 - wich one did you choose? The engine came as Dynoed, it was last dynoed with the SP1

One more: what gear did you use to achive the above mentioned tracktimes? 4.11 on a 245/70/15

any more question, feel free...glad I can help out..

 

The rhoads are a little noisy but I do not see how they bleed off oil pressure. I have turned 6500 rpm with mine (need to set up rev limiter!)

 

@Jess: I also like the sound of a rumbly idle...but how did the car feel when accelerating from idle with the stockconverter? Was there a stumble or hesitation or did it pull strong and smooth from a stop?

@sailbird: What are the specs of the cam you are using with the Rhoadslifters? How is the driveability?

 

very strong, no probs..

 

Thanks Jess! :TU:

Your info shows me that it would be a good idea to copy your combo. The only difference will be a performer intake because i want to keep the GS-airfilter. But this dualplane should also help the lowend a little bit...are there any other things to be considered that were NOT covered by the Car craft article?

 

I went with a holley DP 950HP instead of the demon carb, and it works great.

I would do the oil passages or oil combos that a couple machine shops on this board will do. I am starting over this year, it was my first ever build on a car, and think I can redo a few things better this time, not cause its messed up or nothing..

good luck.. :TU:

 

Wonders of the internet....first you find an article about an engine and then you can talk to the man who owns it....fantastic!

At the moment i am wondering if it would be as costeffective to buy a complete engine from a good enginebuilder in the US and have it shipped to Germany vs. buying the parts and having the work done here. Obviously the second alternative seems to be cheaper but there is the risk that my machine shop makes a mistake because they cant have the experience.

Has anybody ever calculated this?

 

You may be better off to ship it to germany like you said. It is hard for a company to stand behind the parts they sold you when they were installed by someone else. You'll have to pay for shipping for the parts anyway so maybe you'd be better off shipping a complete motor.

 

Well I know this combination is aroud 11,500 and that was the parts price list, So if you have the cash and can afford it, personally I would say that would be a better way to go about it than try and have a NON BUICK savy person build it.

Good luck and hope you enjoy and can use all the info you have gotten.

 

OK, but now the hard question: Who would be the best company to buy a complete engine from? What would be the cost?

 

www.taperformance.com they can build you an engine and they have all the parts they need on hand,give Mike a call.


Thanks

 

OK, i did it! I just bought a nice 72 GS 455 GSX clone.. :laugh: ..i will post pictures when i have cleaned the car....it was a 600+ mile drive through the rain. The car looks good and seems to have no visible rust....just some under the car wich i think is normal. The engine runs like new and has way more power than i ecpected....the only REALLY bad thing was that the previous owner has installed wide oval reproduction-tires and with these tires the handling is downright scary.. :eek2: ...especially in wet weather. First thing for me will be to get new modern tires. I was thinking about some 255/60/15 tires and i hope this will cure this problem somewhat...the steering is still very unprecise, like a boat...any recommenadations? I know now that i have to fix the handling problems before i invest in a stronger engine...otherwise it would be suicide. :ball:

 

Hey roller, I would tell Mike you would like the build I have, and maybe talk to him about aything else he can throw in and make a few more horse..

Mike and Dave were awesome guys to talk to and deal with, I never had any complaints, infact, Mike even put up with my "stupid new guy" questions rather well..

They are great, also there is a local machine shop I can hook you up with that is also savy, and runs great cars to boot.

Congratz to you on the purchase, I know how that is. tke care and have fun, keep us up to date.

 

@Larry: I hope you are right. I will get new tires next week and see what difference they make.

@Jess: Since the motor that sits in the car is really running very well a new engine will be my 2nd. priority. First i have to solve the handling issues. But since the original engine is so good it makes even more sense to buy a complete motor and store the old engine. If i ever resell the car i can put the original engine back in and keep the hot new engine. This is the best move because normally nobody gives you much more for a car if a built engine is installed. I guess i will get the sam oo even more money with the numbers matching engine and keep the built one.

@all: OK, this has nothing to do with the engine, but i have noticed that the car is a bit lower on the drivers side. The difference is close to 3 cm. It is the same at the front and rear. Could this hace something to do with the springs on the drivers side settling more over the years because of the weight of the driver? Or is something VERY wrong?

 

We always run a little more ride height on the passenger side because we only turn left over here

Sorry could not resist.

Larry is correct as usual start with tires. Then check to make sure that all of the stock suspension components are in perfect condition.
Have the alignment set up with as much castor as possible, as little camber as possible and 1/8 inch toe in. It should drive OK at this point.

Mods to make, upgraded steering box, shocks, sway bars, springs if needed. If you really want to handle well go to http://www.globalwest.net/ and go through their site.

There are also lots of links here on what many of us have done to make our Buicks handle better. Look through the Whoa and Sway section. You have a good motor so work on the drivability first.

 

Thanks for the info. I will start with new 255/60 Goodyear tires and a set of red Koni shocks since i have the feeling that the shocks could be worn out. I will report what difference it will make.