I've never had a drop top before- and need help with a non working pump.

Discussion in 'The ragtop shop' started by BrianinStLouis, Sep 30, 2015.

  1. BrianinStLouis

    BrianinStLouis Silver Level contributor

    Hi all,

    I've just purchased a 1970 Skylark convertible. It needs some attention. It's currently at the shop to get the leaky, and possible cracked exhaust manifolds fixed.:pray:

    When I get it back, I need to address a non working convertible top. So while I wait for the exhaust issues to be fixed, I'm doing a little research on a non working pump. It doesn't make a sound. Naturally, I'll be check for 12v at the pump first.
    Any advice?

    Thanks!
     
  2. carmantx

    carmantx Never Surrender

    Checking for power is first to do. Many of the switches in dash are bad. All of the power went through that switch and it pulled a bunch of amps. I added relays to mine so all the switch does now is tell the relay to apply the power.

    I ended up replacing pump, lines and cylinders in mine to get it all in good shape. If yours are original, you may have to do the same. Pump leaked, lines were brittle and cylinders leaked.

    Good luck!
     
  3. BrianinStLouis

    BrianinStLouis Silver Level contributor

    Great.
    I've just purchased the car. The top has been replaced and is nice, even with a glass window. Maybe if I'm lucky, they replaced some of the parts you mentioned. But I'm not usually lucky when it comes to old cars.
     
  4. BrianinStLouis

    BrianinStLouis Silver Level contributor

    Finally had some time to poke around on the drop top.
    No power to the pump. It was the dang fuse! The 30 amp blew, and I replaced it with another 30 amp. The pump then worked, kindof. The pump runs but no movement from the top. I didn't notice any fluid in the clear lines, also no evidence of leaking. Added ATF and the pump began leaking, but I can't tell from where. Maybe I over filled it? Operated the switch and still no movement. I removed the lines from the pump and clear fluid began leaking from the disconnected lines, as well as the pump.
    I have removed the pump from the car and removed the reservoir. Dumped out the mixture of fluid.
    Tomorrow I will connect brake lines to the pump, into a container, refill the pump, check for leaks and operation.
    My buddie is supposed to bring a pressure gauge to see it this thing can create any pressure.
     
  5. steve covington

    steve covington Well-Known Member

    X2 on the info about using relays for the switch. Those switches are almost unique to Buick convertibles (It is also used on the rear power window on the Sportwagon!) in the same location on the dash. Using relays drops the amperage across the switch. It is not that difficult to do at all.
    You should be able to see the ATF; It is red; the original fluid was clear/tan. You could remove the upper pivot bolt from rams on the lift mechanism, having an assistant keeping the rams clear of the top itself, and cycle the rams a few times. Crack loose the fittings at the rams to bleed the fluid. Tighten after successful bleeding and cycling. Good luck!
     
  6. BrianinStLouis

    BrianinStLouis Silver Level contributor

    Dropped.jpg
    Took the pump off. I overfilled it at first- hence the leak.
    While the pump was off, I tested it..it pumps fluid but not very much pressure.
    I reinstalled the pump and filled everything with fresh atf. The top moves up and down....if you help it for about the first 8 or 10 inches.
    I have bought a pressure gauge but have not checked the line pressure yet.
    The drop top has gone back to the temp storage facility.
     
  7. copperheadgs1

    copperheadgs1 copperheadgs1

    The factory procedure for filling a pump is make a rubber plug with a hole in it that will fit in pump fill hole. Put some tubing in the hole and the other end of tubing in trans fluid bottle and operate the pump switch. This draws the fluid in and works like a champ. I learned this from a GM mechanic friend when I had my first A body convert when I was 19 years old. No need to loosen pump fittings.
     
  8. cstanley-gs

    cstanley-gs Silver Mist

    If you need a pump, find a Lebaron convertible in a junk yard
    You can even use the lines :cool:

    You will need to switch the reservoir cover on the pump with your original as it has the mount on it but the rest is the same.
    done it several times.
    And around here cost less than $15
     
  9. Ken Mild

    Ken Mild King of 18 Year Resto's

    I know nothing about convertibles so that's my disclaimer, but if it is going up 8 to 10 inches and stopping every time, could that indicate a binding in the convertible top frame if everything else checks out ok?
     
  10. BrianinStLouis

    BrianinStLouis Silver Level contributor

    Thanks for the info guys.

    I made a tube with a plug as described, The pump didn't suck in much fluid. I filled the pump by squeezing the fluid through the tube from a water bottle filled with ATF. I see the ATF in the lines now.

    I also disconnected the lines from the pump, myself and a friend worked the top up and down manually, it's heavy but smooth. We couldn't find any binding of any kind. When all connected, the top works up and down- if I help it along the first 8 or 10 inches, then it takes over and works pretty well.

    I'm thinking the pump is weak. I read somewhere that they are not that hard to rebuild and I've seen kits on Ebay for around 20 bucks.

    I'll keep the LeBaron thing in mind.

    The drivers side cylinder seems to work better than the passenger side. The drivers side drops lower when the top is down too.

    I have purchased a hydraulic pressure gauge, but have yet to test the pump line pressure. I read in the body manual that the pumps operates at about 350 PSI! I'm pretty sure I'm not getting that kind of pressure.

    The drop top has made it's way to the other garage so it may be awhile before I work on it anymore.

    Thanks again folks.
     
  11. copperheadgs1

    copperheadgs1 copperheadgs1

    Brian, you mentioned the cylinders. It is never bad to replace 45 year old cylinders.
     
  12. BrianinStLouis

    BrianinStLouis Silver Level contributor

    Right....I'm not sure what I'm going to do with this car yet. It'll sell for more with a working top though.
     
  13. dl7265

    dl7265 No car then Mopar

  14. dl7265

    dl7265 No car then Mopar

    Unless the chrome rods are rusty I'd prefer not to replace oem parts with new Chinese . No offense to any Chinese members .

    DL
     

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