Just once more (exhaust)

Discussion in 'Small Block Tech' started by Bearchillz, May 18, 2016.

  1. Bearchillz

    Bearchillz Well-Known Member

    I am finally actually ready to get the exhaust done, and I just wanted to see what you guys have to say about my options.
    It's a stock, low comp, 72 gs 350. I am not putting headers on it. I plan on either having the guy at the shop just build me a whole system, OR buy a Pypes system and have him install it with downpipes (that he would make).

    I've been back and forth trying to decide what to do so much it's making me nuts. The pypes kits I'm looking at are some like these: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pye-sga30r/overview/year/1972/make/buick/model/gs
    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pye-sga13r/overview/year/1972/make/buick/model/gs

    With those kits, however, I would have the guy bend the tail pipes to hide most but the end tips. I'm wondering if that would take away from the sound I'm trying to achieve with bigger pipes than 2.25 crush-bet. I just am wary of Not going with a system like this, because I'm afraid it'll sound wimpy if he builds a 2.25 system.
    I want a deep grumble, but too many people have made me worry that I'll lose low end if I go too big like 3" so I'm hesitant to go that way.
    I don't race, and this is a daily driver, so I appreciate my low end power.

    The only thing I can think is, maybe have him do the 2" downpipes, into 2.5" or 3" back to 2.5/3 magnaflows I'm looking at (11226/11229 I think), and then 2.25 tail pipes. He said he couldn't bend 2.5 tail pipes because they crush at the axle bend.
    Does that sound like anything that might work, or is the Pypes system a better idea?


    I've been told numerous times that I am way overthinking this whole thing. And I know they are right, I am. But I want this done "right" the first time.

    Just trying to squeeze opinions one more time before I spend money. So anything you got, let's hear it!!
     
  2. MDBuick68

    MDBuick68 Silver Level contributor

    Another option is TAs 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust and downpipes with factory type turndown at the bumper. Fits great.

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  3. sriley531

    sriley531 Excommunicado

    A mild 350 with manifolds doesn't really warrant 3" pipes, I'd save your money if I were you. You'll gain little more than being able to say you have 3 inch pipes as on 90% (or more) of the cars out there, performance gains from going that size are nearly immeasurable. As pipe size goes, I had dual 2.25's with flowmasters on my car when it was a smallblock and got compliments on the sound all the time. And I really don't think they held it back performance wise, although its not as if I was doing dyno or drag strip testing.

    The biggest variable sound-wise will be the muffler choice. Some people love flowmasters, some hate them and prefer turbos, its all a matter of personal preference. I like them, however I like many different options. I currently have the 2.5" magnaflow kit on my car, and I'm good with it as well. I will say it wasn't nearly as easy a fit up as I would've hoped, but the components are nice. It sounds good at idle, no drone, and really opens up at WOT, although I'm still debating how much I personally like the exhaust note at WOT. Again, that preference thing.

    But IMHO don't over think it, youre really splitting hairs. On a mild street car the biggest gain from aftermarket duals is the sound. Pick the muffler's you think you like the sound of, and don't get too exotic on pipe sizes unless you just have a wad of cash burning a hole in your pocket. Just my opinion though, and that and a buck fiddy might buy ya a cup of coffee!
     
  4. Bearchillz

    Bearchillz Well-Known Member

    I forgot to mention it, but the car Does currently have duals and cherry bombs. Couldn't tell you what size pipes, but I'd guess 2 maybe..

    I have considered the TAs, and I haven't totally ruled them out, but I think they're a little pricey when I add in the cost of mufflers.

    Although, maybe I could buy just those prebent tail pipes from TA, bang my head on a wall until I'm sure about what mufflers I really want (that might take a while), and then take em up to the shop. Then he can do those downpipes, to 2.5 and slap those puppies on the end..
     
  5. MDBuick68

    MDBuick68 Silver Level contributor

    I chose Dynomax ultraflo welded case with my TA exhaust. 68 350 idle. Im happy with it https://vimeo.com/167190501

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  6. Bearchillz

    Bearchillz Well-Known Member

    I'm also really not sure about the mufflers anymore, even though I'm still leaning MagnaFlow I think.

    Muscle cars all usually manage to sound muscley, but knowing which of the different mufflers I will prefer is hard to tell without much time around them.

    All I'm going off of is general consensus online, which probably isn't the most accurate way..
    Basically, I find that it seems like a majority of people prefer straight through mufflers over Flowmasters.
    The thing I see most often about Flowmaster is that they have an awful done when cruising, and can potentially (maybe negligibly since it's a stock 350?) hurt performance since they're more restrictive than straight through.
    On the other hand, I've been hearing that the MagnaFlows will be quieter. And I certainly don't want my muscle car to end up quieter than it is now with the cherry bombs..
     
  7. MDBuick68

    MDBuick68 Silver Level contributor

    One thing to keep in mind is if you keep overthinking it you will probably never decide on one lol. I dont think you will be unhappy with any decent muffler. Unless you have a strict specific preference which if that was the case you would already know exactly what you want! :cool:

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    Last edited: May 18, 2016
  8. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Attached Files:

  9. Tom Miller

    Tom Miller Old car enthusiast

    Here is the T/A downpipes, hooked to a Flowmaster american thunder center section H pipe, Walker ultra flow mufflers, and T/A/'s tailpipes(highly recommend these for fit)

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6hlGpCfyRQc
     
  10. UNDERDOG350

    UNDERDOG350 350 Buick purestock racer

    Anything bigger than 2.25 will not make more power and could lose some. It also adds weight. Your iron manifolds are only 2" and are the cork in the system. using bigger tubes behind the manifolds won't help at all. Use the Dynomax short case muffler.
     
  11. Bearchillz

    Bearchillz Well-Known Member

    What do you guys think about my idea to go 2" downpipes to 2.5"(or Maybe 2.25") back to 2.5" Magnaflows and TA's 2.5" tailpipes?
    Would it be crazy to consider 3" muffler and tailpipes on that sort of setup?

    If bigger pipes give me the sound I want at the cost of a small amount of low end, I feel like it won't bother me tremendously as I am going to eventually swap the 3.08s for 3.42s. That should pick up anything lost from inappropriate sized pipes, right?
     
  12. Sebambam

    Sebambam Well-Known Member

    I went 3" x pipe universal kit with dual chamber mufflers & turndowns[​IMG]

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  13. MDBuick68

    MDBuick68 Silver Level contributor

    Whats your goal? Just sound? Or do you want power to back up the sound? Are you going to do any head work, porting, cam, gears etc? Just curious what the future plans are.

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  14. Bearchillz

    Bearchillz Well-Known Member

    Well, I'm trying to get a more throaty muscle sound without having to sacrifice significant power.
    I DO plan to put a cam in it eventually, but god knows how far out that is in the future..
    It would be nice to do some porting and head work. Get my comp ratio to 9.5:1 or 9:1 at least, that way I'd have more options for cam. But I don't see any of that being possible unless I can magically find myself a better job making more than peanuts lol.
    Especially because I no longer have a place to work on the car, so I'd have to outsource that work.
    Also, did I mention this is my daily driver..? My other car's a motorcycle.

    My only plans for the near future are to get a nice deep sound going, go to 3.42 posi, and get that A/C going. Beyond that, it's like living paycheck to paycheck, no idea what the future will 'allow'.
     
  15. Bearchillz

    Bearchillz Well-Known Member

    I'd love to have the power to back up the sound, but it's starting to not seem all that realistic. The longer I've had this car, and the more forum reading I do, the more I'm learning that it will take a substantial amount of money and work to make this 72 350 do what earlier year 350s are capable of.
     
  16. MDBuick68

    MDBuick68 Silver Level contributor

    I feel you man. Paycheck to paycheck is my story too. Had my 68 since 96 and its been a real slowwww process, still going actually. I can only really buy one big spendy item a year on the car. But its been worth it and I tried to make sure I didnt throw away money on something I will just dump later. In my opinion just getting a decent dual exhaust set up with your muffler of choice for a stock 350 im sure you will be happy. Then save up and get that next item you want, rear gears, nice carb etc.

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  17. alec296

    alec296 i need another buick

    It's not as hard as you make it out to be. But not having a place to work will hold you back. A 3.08/ or other 3 series gear would go well to improve feel and get up. ( can find used gear/carriers on eBay for 200 or less just use your spider gears for 28 spline)A higher stall convertor in trans. (Jegs/summit racing have free shippin for a $100 2000 stall. ) With hard part being where to do work. (Trans converter swap can be done in 4 hours ).
    Find a set of heads. To shave and port while your saving and preparing. Gary mentioned some good points, but pointing to the cam right now the crower cams have great potential and you can check Steves thread on his setup (next step for 350) a 72 gs and had recent posted nice results . Proving you don't need all kinds of bolt ons to get that kind of power. But shows tuning is important . And a head/cam swap can be done in a weekend with prep.
    So you can collect parts slowly then jump in it when prepared like some of these guys have done .
    And here is some match that could be accurate for your 72 engine base off my 72 engine specs. .030 shaved off heads for a 50 cc chamber will net about 8.9 compression..060 off heads. May be about 42 cc chamber netting about 9.45 compression. .070 About 40 cc head is 9.72. . Even the stock cam will like a boost in compression and porting.
    I would suggest recurve distributer and electronic conversion also. You should see easier starting and some improved power and mpg with it .
    So except for labor you can easily get similar power as the 70 GS 350 for about 1200 (rear gears, convertor,heads shaved and rebuilt,recurve kit , cam kit with timing set)
     
  18. Bearchillz

    Bearchillz Well-Known Member

    Lots of good information that I'll have to consider and revisit in the future. I appreciate you guys taking the time..

    I think I just chose the wrong time in my life to take up another expensive and extremely complicated hobby. I didn't mention it in this thread, but I'm not a 'car guy'. Not the way you guys are anyway.
    I didn't grow up in a family with car guys. I've just done simple work on previous cars, and I just rebuilt my suspension, but rebuilding my engine is something I know nothing about.
    A few buddies I have, who used to work on cars, said they could help me, but I know better than to think I can depend on their help now. Even if they Were 100% reliable, it doesn't matter anymore because I no longer have a place to work. My neighbor had been letting me use his garage and helping me out with the suspension, but he just died.

    So, while I do want to have future plans to do head work and a cam and really wake this engine up, I have no idea when it will become a possibility. And if I can't do the work myself, my only option is to have someone else do it. And if someone else does it, I'm imagining it'll cost so much that it might make more sense to just buy a complete crate engine. I'm out of my element honestly.


    As far as the near future is concerned, the only performance upgrade that is likely to happen is swapping my 3.08s for 3.42s.
    I kind of would prefer to keep my exhaust true duals also, because I like the 'choppy' sound vs the somewhat 'smoothed out' sound you get when you have a crossover. Thinking I'll probably just take it to the shop and let the guy build it with the 2" head pipes and 2 1/4" the rest of the way back. It'll probably be much cheaper than those kits.
    (I keep thinking of things I hadn't mentioned. Here's another; I have leaks at a few different points from head to tail. That's the Main reason I'm even having the system rebuilt in the first place.)
    Gary, you had said I would want to stick with a smaller case size for a more performance sound, are you saying that the 2.5" magnaflows I was thinking about are gonna be too big?



    Someday I'll be able to have the nice things I want hahaha. Never figured a 350 V8 would be lacking in the power department.
    It's just pretty disappointing, not to mention embarrassing, when you're in a Muscle Car and a newish run-of-the-mill honda pulls away from you at an impromptu red light race.
    Granted, if I had known we were racing I'd have gotten a better start. But by the time I realized that's what he was doing, I was well into 3rd past the point where the kickdown cable would have kicked down.
     
  19. alec296

    alec296 i need another buick

    The magnaflo system would be fine but they ain't cheap as I have it on my car. The American thunder flowmaster kit is better price but will not be stainless steel like magnaflo. Summit racing and jegs has house brand kits for 200 mufflers separate. But pypes systems are nice too they are stainless.
    As far as trans not downshifting that could be an adjustment at gas pedal. You would be doing 70 mph if it was not kicking down out of 3rd if adjusted. Decent crate Buick 350s are not really available.
     
  20. patwhac

    patwhac Well-Known Member

    I totally feel your pain when it comes to lack of space. I have pulled an engine and transmission (from my old Monte Carlo) on the street twice. The only other place I have to work is a 2 space carport that is shared with my neighbor. At least it's level, but it's about the same as working on the street as far a protection from the elements. Luckily my neighbor is super cool about me working there.

    When I pulled the engine I would get 2 other guys to help me push it up the driveway on the engine hoist and into the carport. I actually did a cam swap in the carport once, but I made sure I had everything ready beforehand. I'd say that if you made sure you were 100% prepped and ready you could probably do a cam swap in a day. You could probably pull the engine on Saturday, swap the cam, then put the engine back in on Sunday. But you'd have to leave the engine for a night, maybe wrap it in plastic and chain it to your car? :) It all depends too on how cool your neighbors and local cops are.

    I also grew up around people and with a family that knew nothing about cars even though I've always thought muscle cars were bad-ass. I basically learned by buying an old '81 Camaro and having a friend teach me how to change the oil. The brake booster didn't work when I bought it, so my next job was swapping that. I just kept trying more and more complex jobs on that car until I felt more comfortable in the engine bay. I still have a bunch of stuff to learn, but I'd hate to see someone get disgruntled. If you do choose to work on the car you have a great resource with this forum! I learn a ton everyday I log on. Having buddies willing to help you always makes it better too.

    Just my 2 cents!
     

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