Anyone know of some nice black paint that looks correct for the core support and inner wheel wells? I am thinking maybe a little shinier on the wheel wells and a bit less shine for core support. Looking for the kind I can put in a gun. Not looking for spray cans this time. Also primer type used. What have you had success with?
Dave, I've been using the black epoxy that JW recommended. It's easy to use with a 1:1 mix ratio (then reduce for spraying). There are gloss and satin catalysts avail so you can mix for the proper sheen. More info in this thread: http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=57472&highlight=viking+paints
What I use is a lacquer product.For a base/sealer use ppg dp-90 which is basically an epoxy product.The 9423 works well since you don't have weather / uv coming in direct contact with the finished product ,I've never had durability issues.Also its a fast system.Joe:3gears:
When is the last time you bought some 9423? One website that I was checking out after running a Yahoo search says the stuff is no longer available from PPG.....but that is just the first site I clicked on and it's someone's personal site about how he painted a Mustang so who knows if the guy really has correct info. Any additional info on where/how it can be bought would be great as it would be a very easy-to-use paint. Thanks
Patton, I got this from one of your Olds sites :Brow: [FONT="]Inner fenders, firewall, radiator support: [/FONT][FONT="]As with the frame, there are many different formulas that can be used to achieve a semi gloss black paint to match the factory finish. Some restorers like to mix their own paint to get the shine they desire, but. many restorers also use a premixed PPG paint for their engine compartment. We have used PPG 9423 lacquer on our cars and it is about as close as you can get to the factory finish, We usually buy it in quart cans because that's enough to do a complete engine compartment. here's another custom lacquer formula that you can use: 2 qt. PPG mixing black #386 1 qt. universal flattening agent 1 qt. mixing clear #3 10 PPG DTL16 thinner[/FONT] I know of a local PPG dealer near me that still sells lacquer, If no one in Austin does. Joe what tip size do you recommend for spraying this ? DL
Dave; The paint that JW uses on his resto's is the right choice. I used it on my frame off resto. Ken
I own a bodyshop ,my jobber stocks the factory packs ,and can mix it as well.If you have a problem getting it I may be able to assist you.This is as close to and easy to use as you will get in duplicating what Buick did.Joe
Oh,as for the tip size.Sata gun w/ 1.8 choked down works well.Nothing smaller then 1.4 in my opinion.With the 1.8 2 med coats over dp-90which is black :beers2: and you're done.Joe
What type of paints are these (laqeur or epoxy)? I would think you would want to use an epoxy if at all possible as it would be the best in a harsh environment and is more chemical (oil, brake fluid, gas) resistant than other paints, isn't it? I'm watching this thread as I too would like to know the "secret recipe" for the correct gloss finish and brand paints to use for the engine compartment and the chassis parts as well as the bottom of the floorboards. Thanks.....
Couple of points: I suspect NO ONE has the "right" formula. It's BLACK and you will always get arguments from someone. Durability: 1) There is no "bulletproof" paint. They will ALL scratch, scuff and react with some fluids..oil being the least harsh. 2) JW's paint and PPG's DP90 are EPOXY Primers. These are tough compared to a lacquer paint, but NOT bulletproof. They can be used under the hood with great success and they will survive just fine. Some people demand that you MUST topcoat them with something. I've got DP90 and other epoxies on parts and they hold up GREAT. 3) For consistent "durability" a urethane is probably the best when comparing lacquers, epoxies and urethanes. Here's a simple look at the gloss levels: Flat--we all know what that looks like SemiFlat--Krylon SemiFlat Black is a good example Satin or Eggshell-- DP90 Black epoxy--you could also argue that DP90 is semiflat...may depend on which catalyst you use (401 or 402). SemiGloss Black--Things like the GM Underhood Black (an enamel) and some other brands of epoxies are at this level. Gloss Black--we all know what this looks like. I don't know where in that scale the lacquer would fall as the formula calls for flattening agent so I assume it's something less glossy than the satin-to-semigloss look that unbuffed and unflattened lacquer has when sprayed. You can "split hairs" on some those gloss levels with some other products like Eastwood Chassis Paint, EWood Underhood black, ZeroRust, other "chassis black" paints. The stuff JW has allows you to put the gloss level where you want it via the two different catalysts....that's a cool option to have as you avoid having to buy a bunch of different paints. 1.8 tip for a lacquer. You can thin/reduce the stuff to spray it out of a 1.3, 1.4 or 1.5 tip ..or at least you won't have to go out and buy another gun if you don't have a 1.8 tip handy. The GM Underhood Black really looks pretty nice on a radiator support...more sheen/gloss vs a DP90 for example, but not overly glossy where every little defect, dust scratch, etc shows up and glares at you.
I f you use the 9423 have your jobber mix verse factory pack for your inner fenders ,less glossy.Use your factory pack on frame and cowl,more gloss.Core suppt use which ever of the 2 you like ,or sometimes I mix them togehther.Either way it will look good.And lets face it Gm was'nt real worried about the core support,or any other non weathering parts matching to any gloss color standard.Also Every car I see in the Concours show looks great ,no matter who did them, or how they:TU: got them to look that way.And the way the get used ,I bet they all hold up the same way.So follow which recipe is easiest for you.Just my 2 cents.Thanks,Joe
You can go crazy trying to determine and match gloss levels! I have some sample cards from a powder coat supplier that have 5 samples with varying gloss levels from 5 to 95%. They work well as standards to judge gloss levels. Best bet is to spray out your paint mix on some samples and let them cure. I still like the epoxy from Viking paints as you can adjust gloss levels by using different amounts of gloss vs flat catalyst. It's durable too! Lots of pics in Jim Lores GSX thread: http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=55125
