70 GS - This may not be what you are thinking - I've got the front of the car jacked up and wheels off. All the brake components replaced and I'm ready to bleed. I know you can't open the doors with the car jacked up on the frame. I can't use tire ramps because there are no tires. So I can't open the doors to get in and press on the brake pedal. What do you do? Climb in the window? There must be a trick to this, or maybe I can't see the obvious!
Do you have compressed air? You can buy a kit that will bleed the brakes using compressed air. No need for someone to get in and pump the pedal.
Gravity Bleed. Fill MC. crack the farthest bleeder from MC. let drip. Put a clear see threw hose on bleeder. when the air bulbs stop move on to the next.
Good thoughts - I use a vacuum bleed. But I like to pressure test for leaks. I replaced the hoses and fasteners/washers.
If you've got the jack stands near or on the control arms, why wouldn't you be able to open a door? Your car doesn't know if its your tires or a set of jack stands holding it up. If you've got the stands back further on the frame, you can put the jack under the nose and relieve the weight of the engine a little then all good to go with the doors.....now other than that, I tried a set of speed bleeds on my Riv when I did the brakes and didn't have anyone around to give me a hand. I now have them on all my cars. Makes it sooooo easy.
Not that it’ll do you good right away, but I bought one of these, and it’s the easiest system I’ve EVER used: https://www.motiveproducts.com/coll...ts-power-bleeders-classic-car-and-marine-kits
Just put the jack under the crossmember and put a few pumps on it.. BUT there is no reason to not open the doors unless your body mounts are completely shot or the frame is weak. The frame flexes a bit with the stands under the firewall but it shouldn't be that much.
I've been working on cars for almost 40 years and have never had a problem opening doors with the car jacked up. Sure, when the front end is up in the air the body gaps may be off slightly, but I've never had any issues. I always put the stands between the wheels , so if anything, the gaps get wider. I guess that if you were to place the stands in front of the front wheels and behind the rear wheels, your door to fender gap could close up, maybe the door would rub the fender.
In a perfect world there would be no issue, however on 70-72 Buick A-bodies the shape on the doors and front fenders (the little peak) clears within a hair when the tires on on the ground. When its jacked up under the firewall (where the frame curves in - the strongest part) the weight of the engine flexes the frame such that the door front gap closes and "ping" there goes a chip of your paint. Especially with old body mounts and a BBB. Now I don't know of they did that when new or if the gaps can be set to avoid it and still look correct, and I don't know if 4 doors makes a difference, but I've heard it from several folks and seen it my self.
If your doors rub when jacked up the gaps are to tight and or fender is too far in,or you have other issues , but as mentioned you just put the stands under the control arms its the same as if it was on a hill,..rear stands go under the axle tubes