Just rcvd my headers from the GSCA and noticed that the middle bolt hole looks like its going to be a bear. The GSCA newsletter had an article that mentioned notching the middle bolt hole to help things along, Ive never messed with headers but really dont like the idea of taking a grinder to a new set of them. Any other ideas or methods that are tried and true? Better bolts to use to make access more realistic. Also I didnt realise that the collectors were so massive and kind of concerned that heat tranfer to the floor boards is going to be noticable. Any input would help and thanks:spank: :Comp:
headers Carry - You might try header wrap - it comes in rolls and you wrap the headers to keep the exhaust hot for better performance, and it keeps the engine compartment cooler and the floorboards cooler! Also, you can skip the expensive tie wraps and use good hose clamps... Available from Summit or Jegs. - Bill
You can bet that lower center bolt will be an s.o.b. I call it my two hour bolt. Another challenge may be the dipstick tube. My headers were from a different vendor, but I had to cut the flange around the tube for clearance. As far as the collectors go, I've never noticed any heat transfer. Advice on headers: Allow 300% of your estimated time to do the swap. If it's your daily driver, you may need to take the bus on Monday! Expect a 30+ year old exhaust bolt to twist off in the head. One always does. Murphy loved old Buicks.
Don't forget to put anti-seize on the threads so they can be removed someday without a torch. You might consider having the bolts coated, or some stainless bolts. They will rust and look like crap. I know, I have to fix this on my car.:af:
Carry, Yes, the s-wrench does help in most situations. Also, TA sells 12 pt exhaust bolts just for these perfect moments. Much easier to get a grip with the 12 pts. I would stay away from stainless for headers. Stainless tends to snap at higher torque. Your looming headache will probably be taking the old manifolds off. Soak the bolts well with a penatrating oil, give each bolt a good whack with a flat punch and hammer before you try to lossen. Happy Trails!!:laugh:
This is in regards to Bill's reply on this post. Do many of you guys out there use header wrap? What are the advantages vs. the disadvantages of using this. If you by chance get a small horsepower increase, is it worth all the work to wrap your headers? Thanks, Johno No:
header wrap Header wrap is not good. 1) It DOES lower engine compartment temp which can make more power. 2) It DOES keep more heat in the header tubes which keeps velocity up and can help scavenging and make more power. 3) It DOES cause such extreme heat inside the tubes that your headers will rot out causing you to have to buy new ones. 4) The only way to keep your headers from rotting out with wrap on them is to have them ceramic coated, and once they are coated, you no longer really need the wrap because the coating does such a good job. Besides which, the coatings that are available also look a lot better than that ugly wrap/banded stuff.
Mark, I agree with all your points. But when they ceramic coat the headers, do the inside of the headers get coated too? Because if not, the headers will still rust from inside-out.
Yes, the inside is coated. It is best to do this with a pair of new unused headers. The job comes out better. Most coating places will give a rust-through guarantee also.
Sounds right Mark I saw a set of 455 chrome headers with the coating that had been sitting around for a few years. They will rust, but will take a long time to ever rust through.
chrome coatings are far different than ceramic coatings. Chrome does nothing for heat retention and it will rust and discolor. ceramic coated headers are the only way to go now.
Just put the same set on last week .Get the car up on jackstand's They went in smooth,nocutting,grinding ect. Not one scrach! 20 min tops!:TU:
In the past I have soaked the gaskets over night in water, then I use 3/8 rubber o-rings to hold the gasket to the header. This also keeps the bolts in the holes. I start at the front first, then the center bolt. Just get the bolts started a few threads then go to the next one. Once they are all started, I bolt up the collector to the exhaust. This makes this easier. I also bring mine up from the bottom. The only thing I have to remove is the starter. I have TA 2in primary tube headers so the center bolt is a PAIN. Doing it this way makes it ALOT easier. Mike Gilbert BPG#1200
