Mark Burton Twin Turbo Kit Fit and Mockup

Discussion in 'Small Block Tech' started by patwhac, Dec 3, 2018.

  1. patwhac

    patwhac Well-Known Member

    Hello all. As you may have read on another thread, I recently acquired one of Mark Burton's twin turbo kits for the Buick 350 from a board member. This has been a dream of mine since getting my Skylark and joining this board. I started this thread to document the installation and mockup of the kit in general before I pull the 350 for a "refresh", and also so I can ask questions as I go!

    The first problem I encountered yesterday was steering shaft interference with the driver's side turbo manifold. As I tightened the manifold to the head the clearance seemed to get worse with the manifold getting squished, so I backed off to avoid breaking something and warping the manifold. See pics:

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    Anyone have any tips? I don't mind putting some dents in the manifold with a ball peen, but it's not my first choice. Am I doing something wrong? Can I run a smaller diameter steering shaft or grind my current shaft down a bit? It does get way thicker right where I'm have issues. I also read that worn motor mounts can cause this?

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    General notes/plans:

    -Not planning on running an intercooler yet, but probably the first thing I will add after it's all together
    -My kit came with mild steel 2.5" down pipes made for the 70 - 72 Skylark chassis (not sure who made them, maybe Sean?).
    -My kit did not come with any cold side piping, I plan on fabbing it myself from mild steel
    -My kit did not come with a carb hat. Either going to go with Spectre hat or EV hat.
    -My kit did not come with wastegates, so I bought a pair of used Tial F38 wastegates locally (great price)
    -Already have meth/water injection kit with progressive controller (got it 50% off during Sema sale!)
    -Planning on running TA SP3 (have dual plane now)
    -Hoping to go Holley Super Sniper EFI instead of blow through carb
    -Still deciding between Tanks Inc EFI tank or RobbMC powersurge
    -Kit will be run on a stock SP code 350 that I will be "refreshing", if it blows up at least I tried . . .
     
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2018
    Nailhead Ronnie likes this.
  2. Fox's Den

    Fox's Den 22 years of racing the same 355 Buick motor

    Motor mounts could be worn out and the engine had dropped down some. Use the coldest plugs and not those extended versions and gap it no more than .035. That should help keep some detonation out of the way.
     
    300sbb_overkill likes this.
  3. patwhac

    patwhac Well-Known Member

    Will do on the plugs!

    I actually have some new motors mounts in boxes so I will try mounting them this weekend. I should be able to do it by just unbolting and raising the engine, not pulling it out all the way right?
     
  4. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    Them 350 mounts are more prone to cramping out from my experience, I'd pull the manifold and put some heat in that area and go ahead and work it down some maybe 1/8in or so. Another option if going up looks like it would help you can space the engine up 1/8in with some plates between the mount and the block.

    Also remember the column can be moved around on tbe firewall a little bit also via the 5 bolts behind the brake pedal

    I would go with a tanks efi and a 340lph pump

    EV hat is tbe best hat set it at either 6 or 12 o'clock.

    Down pipe,..if possible see if you can go to a 3in off the turbine for the first several inches then back down the 2.5. The 2.5 is probably adequate for those small turbos, but getting g it off the wheel quicker will make them more efficient

    Borgeson has plug and play shafts for the Abody, a jeep shaft may be a touch smaller and eliminate the rag joint at the same time IF you go to a quick ratio Jeep steering box
     
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2018
  5. alec296

    alec296 i need another buick

    Run less boost on the higher compression SP engine. Lower timing advance and watch alky tune . Detontation will kill an engine under boost fast. Gonna need premium fuel.
     
  6. sean Buick 76

    sean Buick 76 Buick Nut Staff Member

    Yes that’s the tight area on all these setups but like people are saying you can move the steering shaft on the firewall and adding 1/8” plates to space the engine up will help... that kit there did really well on my car, that’s the one I sold off a few years back.. I then bought the engine trans and turbo kit off the guy and then sold the kit to the guy you bought it off. I like that version of the turbo kit I think it’s the best design he did so far other than my current setup.

    It was about 460 Hp atvthe tires I think off the top of my head. This thing drove around at 150 mph no problem with the 3.42, 2004R, and $2000 buick 350. I can sell you a custom burton intake if you want! I have 3. Pic of the intake:

    This is your turbo kit in action.

     

    Attached Files:

  7. patwhac

    patwhac Well-Known Member

    Thanks for the info Sean! It's kind of awesome I get to see my kit in action before I put it on!

    I was planning on an SP3, which I'm assuming would be cheaper than a custom sheet metal intake. I will probably try and sell my dual plane to help with the cost.
     
  8. sean Buick 76

    sean Buick 76 Buick Nut Staff Member

    No I would sell you the intake for low cost it would be cool to see it on a turbo car. I will message ya.
     
  9. jay3000

    jay3000 Well-Known Member

    That is a different manifold that what I had. I have tons of pics, and at some point they have been posted here. I can send them if you want, but I'm not sure the easiest way to send all of them. I have pics of the custom downpipes as well.. Dave Tumas built them
     
    Last edited: Dec 11, 2018 at 1:33 PM
  10. sean Buick 76

    sean Buick 76 Buick Nut Staff Member

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