There's LOTS of bodywork experience so.... here goes. I'm looking to replace the entire trunk floor of my '67 GS 400. I can't justify the purchase of a MIG welder for just this job so hence the bonding alternative (other than farming out the job). Price is an issue but durability and look is the ultimate goal. I'm a bodywork "dumby" so future work will be going to the "pros". Here's the ?'s I've seen opinions to not use the process on structural parts here . Would the load bearing aspect of the trunk be bad for bonding/adhesives? Other searches on this site show prep is the key? What are the specifics? Butt joint? - if so any gap? Products? - 3M, Fusor, or sumptin else? Any and all insight is appreciated! :TU:
Eric, I wouldn't exactly say thins is bodywork. I would say go buy a mig welder at a home depot, or even check ebay. You can get them for around 400.00 or so and they are fantastic for sheetmetal. The trunk floor would only require spotwelds for the most part and you could use seam sealer to clean it up. Then cover it with trunk spatter and your all set. Very simple work. Just practice with the welder a little before hand. Go for it man!! Bob
Eric, I have yet to replace a trunk floor, but I'll throw in my 2 cents anyway..... At the minumum you need to at least spot weld the trunk floor braces to the trunk floor. They support the gas tank, so you need strength there. You can 'spot weld' with a mig.....drill a 1/4" hole thru the top panel, then weld thru the hole to the underlying panel. Easy... Does your floor need replacement? Yours looks like it has alot of surface rust, is it sound structuraly? They usually rust from the top side down, from water leaking thru that notorious rear window...So the bottom side might look mint. Which vendor did you decide to buy from?
Thanks Gents! Bob - When originally posting, I forgot my Pop has a 115 volt mig wire feed at his house. I forget the amp rating but i'm sure i can talk him out of it for a bit! Walt - The entire floor has to go. The posted pic doesn't show it but there's a number of rust through holes all over the pan. It's all due to the original trunk mat staying in place for the past thirty-seven years - doh! The passenger side body mount brace can be seen from the inside. I'm willing to bet the gas tank braces are OK but I haven't dropped the tank to be certain. I haven't picked a kit yet but am leaning toward OPG - with the braces already installed. If bonding were to be used, would there have to be some type of "backing material" to keep the adhesive from bleeding through? Thanks!
In theory, I like the idea of bonding....a watertight seal, no warpage from welding heat....good strength.... But, I haven't tried it yet. But I have used JB weld in various applications. After I apply the JB weld, I'll apply a piece of masking tape over it, smooth it out, let it dry, then just remove the tape. I'll give a more finished appearance. I imagine you could do the same with the bonding glue. There will be some finishing required...if you use overlap joints, you will still need to finish the joint with a layer of filler (bondo) that is at least as thick as the metal. Hope somebody with some actuall experience will reply. :grin:
The definifition of 'Right' changes as fast as the technology does!.....From what I hear, the modern adhesives are pretty damn good......if you have data contrary to that, please elaborate.....I realize adhesives aren't the best in all applications, but the trunk floor seems ideal for its usage....
Eric i've used the adhesives you speak about and they work as good or better than desribed. we just bonded a quarter panel on a corrolla and it came out great.If you have never used a welder before bonding is a good solutionto your dilema.Just follow the directions and you should have no problems.
It's been a bit... No job progression to show for but... After looking at the info packs by the bonding co.'s - it looks like either a lap joint or a backing strip is the way to go. A butt weld just won't do. A few other member have PM'd me detailing how a lap joint worked more than wonderful with them but I'm looking for as much as "original :bglasses: ) as possible. So....I snagged my pop's 115 welder and will be making a few pracitce beads in the spriing. Concrete's too dang cold in the winter! Any hints for the wheel wells? Extra Seam Sealer or good tack welds + sealer - or all of the above? Thanks!
I went to one of these schools they had for bonding adhesives and let me tell you this we glued on a rear quarter panel and we were all rather impressed how easy it was to do . The instructor had a wrecked car in the back of the shop sitting on a frame machine. This car had a glued quarter panle on it and it was crushed pretty good. When we finished pulling the quarter not one of the glued seams was broken. :Smarty: "PREPERATION IS THE KEY TO ANYTHING SO DON'T ASSUME IT IS A WALK IN A PARK TO GLUE YOUR PANELS" :Smarty: Experience is a great thing to have and if this is your first time bonding please follow directions. Don't put it on rusted/pitted metal unless you sandblast it clean. :Smarty: "PREPERATION PREPERATION PREPERATION" :Smarty: I can't say that enough.
