Knocked a few more items off the "to do" list. Mounted the passenger side header and starter. Had to mount the trans crossmember under the frame, and shim it down to tilt the engine up so the oil pan would clear the steering linkage. I welded up the port hole mount holes that showed between the LED port holes I installed and mounted and wired the lights. I might have to sand a little of the tint off the lenses to make them a bit brighter, but you get the idea. They will be wired to the turn signals. -Josh
I finished the passenger LED portholes today. I think I'm going to wire the portholes to the corner marker lights. On the Silverado, they blink with the signals with the lights off, light up with the lights on, and blink opposite the turn signals when the lights are on. Also set the core support up to see how my progress is starting to take shape. -Josh
Josh, Long time no hear from, I have been watching your progress with the wagon and love where your going with it! Hope all is well with you and the family. Tom in St. Pete
To make the fuel gauge work with the Silverado wiring, I had to buy a fuel level sender with 40-250 ohm resistance. I chose a 6 inch tube type sender from Egauges.com. http://www.egauges.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=RA9506-ISS It's a 1 1/2 inch diameter tube that goes into the tank, so I used a 1 1/2 inch hole saw at the only flat spot on the top of the tank. I used self-tapping screws to mount the sender. You can see how the sender almost touches the bottom of the tank when looking through the hole from the pick-up tube. -Josh
I've replaced all the brake lines and all 4 disc brake calipers. I've buttoned up the front sheet metal and core support. I installed the aluminum radiator from my 67 Skylark and sorted out all the wiring. I relocated the battery tray to the driver's side and installed a Cold air intake system (Spectre). My current problem is that when I turn the ignition on, the fuel pump cycles for three seconds. When I crank the engine, it fires for a second, then dies. The fuel pump runs for another few seconds, then shuts off. It only runs for a second and then dies. I'm using the MSD inline fuel pump and the Corvette filter/regulator. I'm not sure if it's getting enough fuel pressure. I figure it's still start and idle if the pressure was a little low, but I could be wrong. Any ideas?? -Josh
I figured out why the engine wouldn't stay running. The EGR wasn't hooked up. There was a hole in the intake behind the throttle body, so the ECM was only metering fuel for whatever air that was passing through the MAF sensor. I cut the EGR feel tube and welded a bolt into the hole to block the hole. She fired right up!!! -Josh
With the engine running, I started buttoning up the front end and wiring up the lights. Also, I took pics of the lights with parking lights, low beam and high beams. The low beams are dim because the battery is weak. The high beams are LED's so they're always bright. -Josh
I took the wagon off the jack stands and went to go for a test drive, and the trans wouldn't work. It seems like the front pump isn't working. I was hoping it was me forgetting to attach the torque converter bolts. When I tried jacking it up today, the jack slipped off the crossmember and punched a hole in the front of the oil pan, just under the crank pulley. So now I have to pull the engine back out to replace the oil pan. I ordered some Alt and power steering brackets from Dirty Dingo to lower the alternator below the hood line. Pics when they're installed. -Josh
Dirty dingo brackets showed up today. Still waiting on the oil pan. They're so pretty. I'll try to remember to take before and after pics for comparison. -Josh
Nice thread you have going on here. I am planning to do the same thing to my 66 wagon. You hooking up your factory ac too? I use to live in tampa.
No immediate plans to run a/c yet, but having factory a/c should give me a head start if i decide to put it in. -Josh
My oil pan showed up yesterday, so i got back into it. I'm going to pull the intake to lift the engine anyways, so i checked the fitment of the camaro intake i got. The broom stick across the fenders shows the clearance issues before and after. Plus a side by side of the truck intake and the camaro intake. -Josh
Now the alternator relocation bracket from dirtydingo.com. Here's a side by side comparison as well as one placed on top of the other to show where the alternator was and now is. I got them mounted with all the supplied spacers and hardware. The belt is wrong, but you get the idea. And then another broomstick shot to show how much more clearance i gained. -Josh
Using the Silverado wiring, the turn signals are separate from the taillights. So I'm using the reverse light sockets and switchback led eagle eye projector lights to house the turn signals and reverse lights. There's two white and two amber LED's per light. -Josh
I swapped oil pans today. You can see the damage to the front of the pan i broke. Using the camaro water pump, you must also use the camaro tensioner to maintain belt alignment. The Silverado serpentine belt is 60923 or 6k923. That's 6 rib, 923 mm. It's way too long for the conversion brackets. I tried the 2000 camaro belt (60790), but it's just a bit too long. I got a 60775 belt, and it's perfect. -Josh
