My 1965 Skylark Wagon

Discussion in 'Drag'n Wagons' started by GotTattooz, Jul 9, 2014.

  1. GotTattooz

    GotTattooz Well-Known Member

    I was having issues with fuel starvation and I thought it was a tuning issue. Well the fuel pump is so loud, i could hear it bogging down through the floor.

    Holley came up with a sweet direct fit fuel pump that goes where your existing fuel sender goes. I bit the bullet ($330.00) and ordered one.

    First off, kudos to Holley for making a very nice setup. No more piecing pumps and regulators together. The fuel filter, pump and regulator are all one unit. The filter is a hydromat, so you don't have to worry about fuel starvation under acceleration or hard cornering with 1/4 tank of fuel.

    Secondly, it's quiet. The pump in the tank versus under the floor in front of the fuel tank is night and day. I can hear the electric radiator fan and the exhaust, but no more fuel pump whine.

    Third, the instructions are great. Wiring diagram is easy to understand. They set the resistance for the fuel level sender to work with the factory gauge. Step by step pictures show how to properly install the pump assembly into the factory tank.

    The only issue i had was not related to the fuel pump. I accidentally cut my fuel return line. My 68 C10 doesn't have a fuel return line, but the Buick does. I cut the return line, thinking it was from the corvette fuel filter with a built in pressure regulator. Fortunately, I cut it close enough that i could pull slack and reconnect without much fuss.

    I'd say the Holley pump was well worth the money and I'd recommend it to anyone doing an ls swap with fuel injection.

    I included a picture of both setups to show what i had pieced together and the all inclusive Holley setup.

    -Josh
     

    Attached Files:

  2. GotTattooz

    GotTattooz Well-Known Member

    I bought some upper and lower tubular control arms for the wagon. I pulled the front sheet metal off to access the heater core. When I moved to Atlanta, I buttoned her up in a rush for the move. Now I can put it back together properly. There's a lot of zip ties and self tappers that need to be addressed.

    -Josh
     

    Attached Files:

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  3. GotTattooz

    GotTattooz Well-Known Member

    Took the time to cut the evaporator box and seal up the broken corners. I have an after market heater core, and it's bigger than the original so the factory straps wouldn't work. I made a bracket to hold it in place and replaced the blower motor and squirrel cage.

    The front tires rub the inner fenders just a little, so i made relief cuts, hammered down the high spots and then welded the relief cuts for strength and to prevent sharp edges from cutting the tire.

    On my passenger front fender, 2 of the mounting tabs broke. I welded the top outside tab back on. The inner tab at the firewall was missing, so I used a spot mirror bracket in its place.

    -Josh
     

    Attached Files:

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  4. GotTattooz

    GotTattooz Well-Known Member

    Not much progress, but it's still progress. I wired up 2 led strips over the cargo area and put them on the Silverado control box. Well I bought a 5-wire push button switch off of eBay. It took a little to figure out the wiring, but it takes up a lot less space.

    -Josh
     

    Attached Files:

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  5. GotTattooz

    GotTattooz Well-Known Member

    Some more progress this weekend.

    I swapped inner tie rods with new ones from CPP. I can't remember where I got the ones I just replaced, but the grease fittings were facing the cross member, making it almost impossible to grease them. The new CPP end have grease fittings on the ends with 90 degree fittings. Much easier to maintain.

    For almost 2 years, I haven't been able to open the tailgate glass. I tackled that issue today. The passenger side track roller was missing. For some reason, I took the power window motor off the regulator, and that allowed everything to spring apart. I removed the regulator to replace the track roller. Fortunately there are timing marks on the gears, so that was a lot easier to fix than I'd feared. I did have to secure the regulator to a large piece of wood so I could wrestle against the winder spring and get the gears timed correctly.

    -Josh
     

    Attached Files:

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  6. 64 skylark mike

    64 skylark mike Well-Known Member

    Enjoy reading your progress reports, keep up the good work!
     
    GotTattooz likes this.
  7. GotTattooz

    GotTattooz Well-Known Member

    I bought new rear axles from summit racing. I had to have the flanges turned down to fit inside the rotors. New moser studs and wheel seals. The old axles had a slight wobble to them and it felt like a separated tire at low speed.

    I cleaned up the T/A performance rear end girdle and buttoned it all back up.

    -Josh
     

    Attached Files:

    2001ws6 likes this.
  8. GotTattooz

    GotTattooz Well-Known Member

    I did some interior work. I painted the inside of the car flat black.

    I cleaned, sanded and wiped the cargo area with lacquer thinner before applying a coat of bed liner. It'll take a few days to cure, but I think it cleans the back end up nicely.

    -Josh
     

    Attached Files:

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